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I am working on a friends 2000 GU2 petrol Patrol.
Sub tank light is on and the transfer of fuel does not happen.
There is two wires, Green and Grey-perhaps Black (as shown in the photo) that I cannot find a home for.
They are at the rear of the sub tank and in front of the rear diff.
Can someone assist please.
Ken
Last edited by 57flw; 21st February 2013 at 09:06 AM.
Maybe something to do with the pump in the sub tank. (wires loose, pump not pumping, lights on but nothings happening: I know people like that)
Check fuse panel to ensure fuse hasn't blown (if there is one) for the sub tank pump or related circuit.
Check to see if there is any voltage at either wire when light is on, or the switch is pushed.
If there is voltage then I'd say it should be connected to the pump.
Is the pump connected?
06 GU IV Nissan Patrol wagon 3.0L, Tough Dog 2" lift, Xrox bar, 12k Mako winch, 33" muddies, 3" exhaust, Awning, UHF, drawers & fridge, custom sliders, DVDs, custom water tank and pump, rack etc etc.
Now just in - GQ Shorty 4.2 petrol, UHF - but looking at turbo or V8 conversion
The early GUs had a problem with a poor earth to the chassis, this would often cause the fuel transfer module to lock up.
The fix was to run a new earth lead from the chassis to the body or negative battery post.
You will need to also disconnect the battery for about 30 minutes to reset the transfer module. If disconnecting the battery does not reset it, you will need to unplug the fuel transfer module for 30 minutes.
Thanks for the reply.
The wires are Green and Grey-perhaps Black(hard to see with the surrounding tubing.
I have carried out a good clean on all the battery leads and I have read about the need for a decent earth from the chassis to the body, on this forum.
My immediate problem is finding out where the two wires go. There is not much length to play with so I am a little lost at the moment.
I am not experienced on this vehicle so do not know what part is what or what it does.
To allow me to follow your suggestion of unplugging the fuel transfer module for 30 minutes I would need to be told where it is located.
I have asked the owner to provide me with a workshop manual.
Have you put a test light/multimeter on the wires to see if they are live, or could be live.
If you have someone to help, maybe test the wires for continuity by having your offsider switch things on and off until you find out what they could do.
Anyway mate you have Yendor on the case and he's pretty cluey about this sort of thing.
Good luck with it
Mark
Proud former owner of a 1997 White GQ TD42 Patrol Cab Chassis with an after market turbo, now with over half a million k's and still going strong, that's had a heart transplant and now not owned by me
As posted by others, run an auxiliary earth from the tank then disconnect the battery for at least 30 minutes and try the transfer system again. If it doesn't reset then get stuck into the fault finding
Last edited by the evil twin; 21st February 2013 at 11:54 AM.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
Why not look at vehicle wiring diagrams.
see what wires have a plug in that location.
you should be able to find wire colours info etc, to also narrow your search
any thing to do with the fuel tank system,senders sounds like first place to check.
cheers
Thanks for the reply.
The wires are Green and Grey-perhaps Black(hard to see with the surrounding tubing.
I have carried out a good clean on all the battery leads and I have read about the need for a decent earth from the chassis to the body, on this forum.
My immediate problem is finding out where the two wires go. There is not much length to play with so I am a little lost at the moment.
I am not experienced on this vehicle so do not know what part is what or what it does.
To allow me to follow your suggestion of unplugging the fuel transfer module for 30 minutes I would need to be told where it is located.
I have asked the owner to provide me with a workshop manual.
If the wire is Green and the other one is Black they will be for the factory diff lock, if fitted.
If the vehicle doesn't have a factory diff lock fitted the harness is normally tied back on it's self. I would say it's come loose and got caught up in the tail shaft.
Just tape then up individually and tie it up out of the way.
You will need to run an earth to the chassis.
I would try disconnecting the battery first, it's the easiest way and normally is enough to reset it.
The fuel transfer module is located in the dash below the radio on the LHS, if needed I can post a picture showing it's rough location from the workshop manual.
Yendor,
Thanks for your help. Here's where I am up to.
Finished the brake job which was the original main task.
The other two jobs are sub tank not working and flat battery with the charge light showing on the dash.
Charged the battery and tested it. 11.9v engine off. Started the engine, still 11.9volts. Removed alternator and the auto elec confirmed my test. New alternator for $250 on it's way.
Pulled the sub tank switch out, stripped it and cleaned all the contacts. Looks fine. Is there any tests I can carry out whilst the switch is out?
Getting back to my two wires, or I should say the young Lady's wires who owns the vehicle, there is no power to them and the vehicle does not have a diff lock. As you stated perhaps they are part of the loom just in case. If nothing else shows up I will just tape and secure them out of the way.
I will need to wait until the new alternator arrives before I can reconnect the battery and see if the dash sub light is still activated.
Originally Posted by 57flw
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