Cant get auto transmission in 89 GQ auto to go into diagnostic mode.

[ckh]

OK had torque converter replaced, a O ring is what was stopping lockup, as presure was blowing by it, now new problem.
1 at around 90-95ish every now and then the lockup will drop out for a split second, can see the tacho jump for a fraction of a second, if I didnt have a tacho wouldnt even notice it.
2 Cant perform self diagnostics on transmission like I used to, go though the normal proceedure and when I press the accelerator pedal, the power light just stays on, on this I noticed in this proceedure is when I put it in first and hit the power button the lock button on the side of the shifter doesnt come out. If I start the car up its will drive in first gear if I select first, I'm just pulling my hair out with what is stopping the system from going into diagnostic mode reading the manual it say if the power light stay on and doesnt go though the test its either Inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kick down switch idle switch or the A/T controler is damaged.
I'm assuming kick down is working and when driving, it kicks down when I floor it, everything else seems to be doing what its supposed to appart from the intermitant unlocking around 95, if I'm doing a 100 or more it does seem to unlock at all. could the fact the button on the side of the shifter isnt coming out, be the problem, and the computer doesnt see its actually in first for the next step in the diagnostics? Took it back to the tranny guy at underwood, he said not to stress about the computer not doing the diagnostics, or the fact that it trips out of lock up intermitentally, if any one can give me juggestion on what the problem could be I'd appreicate it, is the button on the side of the shifter supposed to come out as it does in every other gear I select?

[taslucas]

Not sure if you've read about my gearbox problems. (thread is called TB42 auto box electricals, in the gearbox section). I was having the same symptoms but mine would lock/unlock rapidly on the highway. The self diagnosis came up the same as yours. Check your wiring loom from the gearbox. Make sure all the plugs are in correctly. Check the fuses for the auto box, they are under the regular fuse box in the engine bay.

FanTapstic!

[ckh]

Not sure if you've read about my gearbox problems. (thread is called TB42 auto box electricals, in the gearbox section). I was having the same symptoms but mine would lock/unlock rapidly on the highway. The self diagnosis came up the same as yours. Check your wiring loom from the gearbox. Make sure all the plugs are in correctly. Check the fuses for the auto box, they are under the regular fuse box in the engine bay.

FanTapstic!

Does the side button on the shifter come out when in first gear, as it does in all other gears?

[taslucas]

Here is my set up.
I think it may be different. The button on mine doesn't pop out by its self any time.

FanTapstic!

[ckh]

Here is my set up.
I think it may be different. The button on mine doesn't pop out by its self any time.

FanTapstic!

Looks exactly the same as mine, but when in first the button doesnt come out, just disconnected all wire connectors I could find and cleaned with contact cleaner, then when I tried to do diagnostic test, I hear a buzz/noise from near or in the transmission, if I disconnect the bottom wiring loom next to the battery "brown in color" the noise stops, I have check fuses inside kick panel, but where are the fuses in the engine bay located? are they blade type or what do they look like?

[ckh]

Here is my set up.
I think it may be different. The button on mine doesn't pop out by its self any time.

FanTapstic!

Looking at the button in your pick on the right side of the shifter, with the scuff marks, thats the button I'm refering to, to put it in first you have to press button in, but when in first button doesnt come back out, like in second, drive, etc....

[taslucas]

Ahhh sorry. well in that case, then yeah that one comes back out as soon as i take my thumb off it. Its just a locator/locking thing to stop you accidently bumping the shifter into drive or reverse. Not sure why that wouldnt be popping out when it 1st gear but i doubt it has anything to do with the torque converter lockout. If anything, it may just have something to do with the linkages underneath.

[ckh]

Ahhh sorry. well in that case, then yeah that one comes back out as soon as i take my thumb off it. Its just a locator/locking thing to stop you accidently bumping the shifter into drive or reverse. Not sure why that wouldnt be popping out when it 1st gear but i doubt it has anything to do with the torque converter lockout. If anything, it may just have something to do with the linkages underneath.

I'm wondering if it may have something to do with me not being able to go into diagnostic mode...
just disconnected all wire connectors I could find and cleaned with contact cleaner, then when I tried to do diagnostic test, I hear a buzz/noise from near or in the transmission, if I disconnect the bottom wiring loom next to the battery "brown in color" the noise stops, I have check fuses inside kick panel, but where are the fuses in the engine bay located? are they blade type or what do they look like? I can find only one old glass type fuse, which seems fine, have checked under the black plate between the battery and guard and there are only relays in there....

[ckh]

Not sure if you've read about my gearbox problems. (thread is called TB42 auto box electricals, in the gearbox section). I was having the same symptoms but mine would lock/unlock rapidly on the highway. The self diagnosis came up the same as yours. Check your wiring loom from the gearbox. Make sure all the plugs are in correctly. Check the fuses for the auto box, they are under the regular fuse box in the engine bay.

FanTapstic!

Read your post, but could see how you resolved not being able to get inbto diagnostic mode...

[Alitis007]

If the button on the t bar isn't poping out its probably due to an adjustment on the auto from when you had it removed. The converter going in and out of lockup could be from rd conditions. Are you testing on a flat rd or hilly?? When your trying the self diagnosis has the car been driven for longer that 15mins above 80km/h?? When the rpm "flairs" how are you pressing the throttle???

I see you posted the same thing the other thread you started.