Brakes

[lhurley]

Hey guys,

The time has come that the troll needs some new stoppers.

Its been in the shop and they did a brake fluid change and measured everything up and said im in for new rotors. Thats fine I was expecting that.

What i didnt expect was how much they were going to charge me, $800!! for new front pads and rotors. Now thats absurd. Ive done some searching around and i found a place that will sell me new pads and rotors for about $200. Thats much better in my book.

Now comes the question, as far as i know its a simple swap, i know my way around there enough to feel comfortable doing it my self, just wanting to know what im getting into.

Any help is always appreciated,

cheers

Lachlan

[nissannewby]

How old are your wheel bearings? The front discs are bolted to the hubs so you need to remove wheel bearings and hub to replace. So if your bearings aren't that old just repack them if they are getting on the it's a good opportunity to replace them.

[BigRAWesty]

Also maybe a good time to upgrade discs to slotted, drilled or both.. this increases breaking and cooling so inturn gives a more positives feel if you need to jump on them..
I also heard that later models come out with twin piston calipers on the front, and there a straight bolt on change. Don't hold me to it as I haven't researched it much, but if you can increase the breaking performance and afford it it'll be better onroad and off.

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

[nissannewby]

Stay away from drilled rotors on a 4wd. It doesn't take much to clog them and in turn can damage the rotor, also once it's full of crud there goes the cooling effectiveness. Being a gu it already has decent calipers on it.

[BigRAWesty]

Fair point. Hadn't thought of it like that. So slotted is ok?

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

[nissannewby]

Yeah they are fine but they still clog up and need regular cleaning to make sure you get the best from them and to prevent them wearing pads out prematurely.

[Morton]

slotted x 2, helps alot with water crossing etc, mud does get into them a little but a quick hose out will sort them, do it when they are cold, not red hot, warps the rotor, always throw in new pads & new bearings, use high temp grease, do not over pack the hub but grease it up at the same time, good time to pull the kingpins or swivel hub bearings out & repack them aswell, with your old bearings squeeze new grease in them just enough to get a bit of old grease out of them & smear the grease on a clean white cloth, if there is even the slightest amount of metal shaving in the grease toss them, if they are good just repack them, seperately put them into a sandwich bag & throw them back into the bearing boxes you just bought, throw a new seal in there & pack it into your 4by somewhere for an emergency, perhaps permanately borrow your wifes or Mums tupperware container & store it altogether in that, been done before but I wont say who

[Diesel-Mate]

Just do the job yourself mate. Go to repco and get two rotors for $120 and break pads (bendix) for $80. It's about a 15minute job if you don't do your bearings. Also helps if you have a breaker bar or impact wrench to speed things up.

[Morton]

new front rotors dont come with bearing/caps in them, hence new bearings each time

[lhurley]

It's a 99 model so I don't know about the twin piston caliper. The brake shop said the hubs had to come off so I'm assuming that means its a single caliper? I was planing on doing the bearings soon anyway. Any recommendations for a good place to get a bearing kit (seals and all the front bearings)??

Correct me if I'm wrong, doesn't the king pin bearing need to be pressed in? Or is that it's track that does? I just remember someone saying something similar. But hey I could be wrong.