Suspected blown head gasket.

[threedogs]

Looks like you may need stainless valve stems, and new seals and upper lubricant to replace the lead in fuel
Or get a gas head on a change over basis
Replace all vacuum and fuel lines, there's a thread somewhere saying the fuel line splits near the fuel tank on chassis
causing it to suck air, Meds kicking in all over the shop. I'll stick with split fuel line.

Have you removed all air from the system??
Park nose up and invert coke bottle in radiator, you'd be surprised
how much air you can remove

[Parksy]

Looks like you may need stainless valve stems, and new seals and upper lubricant to replace the lead in fuel
Or get a gas head on a change over basis
Replace all vacuum and fuel lines, there's a thread somewhere saying the fuel line splits near the fuel tank on chassis
causing it to suck air, Meds kicking in all over the shop. I'll stick with split fuel line.

Have you removed all air from the system??
Park nose up and invert coke bottle in radiator, you'd be surprised
how much air you can remove

It also pays to move the temp control in the cabin to hot then cold then repeat and watch for bubbles. I spent about 20 mins doing this. Frustrating, but it eventually got the air out.

[Robo]

Looks like you may need stainless valve stems,
Replace all vacuum and fuel lines, there's a thread somewhere saying the fuel line splits near the fuel tank on chassis
causing it to suck air, Meds kicking in all over the shop. I'll stick with split fuel line.

Have you removed all air from the system??
Park nose up and invert coke bottle in radiator, you'd be surprised
how much air you can remove

Ya mean Stainless valves ?.
Have Morreys bottle hooked up.
Not using any oil between changes.
Carby re built, the float pin holes were a little loose but ok I recon.
Running better, still not fixed but not far off now ( touch wood ).
Was defiantly worth the effort to kit carby out.
Think I'll take a look at plug gaps again.
Waved timing light over and spark is playing up wtf.
.7mm gap now for lpg, that gap was fine before.
Will try muckin around with ign AGAIN.
And bleed coolant as described above.
Also check fuel and vac lines.

Funny somewhere here, big leads were quoted as a waste of time as bosch make good leads.
A mate of mine reported back to me about his friend fixing an ign problem on a patrol with 10mm leads, as all else had failed.

Cheers

[Robo]

It also pays to move the temp control in the cabin to hot then cold then repeat and watch for bubbles. I spent about 20 mins doing this. Frustrating, but it eventually got the air out.

Can you please explain.
The interior heater system has no hot water tap.
The control only moves a door in the air duct system.
I don't understand why and how moving the heater control would do anything.

[Parksy]

No idea robo. All I know is the instructions for flushing the radiator specifically states to have the setting on hot and when I was bleeding the system moving the control from hot to cold made the level of water jump and bubble(using coke bottle trick). Can't explain it because I don't know anything about it. All I know is it worked for me. Can't tell me otherwise. Sorry.

[Robo]

No idea robo. All I know is the instructions for flushing the radiator specifically states to have the setting on hot and when I was bleeding the system moving the control from hot to cold made the level of water jump and bubble(using coke bottle trick). Can't explain it because I don't know anything about it. All I know is it worked for me. Can't tell me otherwise. Sorry.

All good.
Yeah manual states about the setting on hot whilst bleeding.
your guess is as good as mine.
I dont recall ever seeing a manual telling anything any differently about heater setting while bleeding.
maybe balances out the entire coolant capacity temperature evenly, something or other !.
Cheers