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12th January 2013, 03:36 PM
#91
Patrol Freak
If funds permit mate, i would look into a 2nd opinion. I got recommended 'The Transmission Center' at Underwood by Wholesale Autos, and have been really happy with them so far, nothing is to much of a hassle. Even call them up and tell them what youve done and see what they say.
If the gear changes are to smooth, the clutches are actually slipping. The change should be smooth but firm, just noticeable
1999 GU DUAL FUEL 4.5 - 2" OME - 33's KM2s - SNORKEL - CUSTOM DINTS.... Goes by the name Candy (the car not me
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The Following User Says Thank You to lhurley For This Useful Post:
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12th January 2013 03:36 PM
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12th January 2013, 11:23 PM
#92
Legendary
Do you have a mate or family member with a trol like yours? If you do, see if you can borrow their TPS and see if that makes any difference. Just mark the position of the 2 7mm bolts to put back afterwards. It might sound a little far fetched but you don't have anything to loose yeh?
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15th January 2013, 08:16 PM
#93
Got a mate who will have TPS available to me soon,, just got off the phone to him, all this stress gave me a heart attack last tuesday, so have backed off the stress button, cant afford to be laying in a hospital bed
Last edited by ckh; 15th January 2013 at 08:20 PM.
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20th January 2013, 03:14 AM
#94
shudder is still there when trying to lock up, a guy on another forum is 100% sure its my converter.... any more suggestions before I start spend $$$$ on it
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20th January 2013, 08:26 AM
#95
Rotaredom
Originally Posted by
ckh
shudder is still there when trying to lock up, a guy on another forum is 100% sure its my converter.... any more suggestions before I start spend $$$$ on it
yep....................spend the $$$ on it. If you have done all the other test and it has passed then yes the guy on the "other forum" is more than likely 100% correct in saying its your TC.
Even if its just the TC, while its apart you might as well spend the extra $$$ and fix up the rest of the box. You could easy just replace the TC put it all back together and find one of the clutch packs decides to fail and then you will be going through the cost of pulling it all out again.
Cheers
Todd
Time is never wasted when your wasted all the time
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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20th January 2013, 08:27 AM
#96
Legendary
Problem with auto converter isnt locking up
So you tried the TPS?? If you did its unfortunate that the converter let go! You could try another TCM but i think you might be wasting your time with that.
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4th February 2013, 11:04 PM
#97
Quote:
Originally Posted by mavers
Might be worth giving the guys a call from wholesale automatics, they are very helpful but might want you to buy something. They do sell the lock up switch kits, might be worth buying one of those to get you out of trouble for the time being? Piss easy to install, I got my auto leccy to do it while I was getting some other work done.
I called them they said to cut the wire near the auto computer and put a 12V feed to the solenoid wire, that way I wont stuff the computer, wired it up and took it for a drive, when turned the switch on it shuddered though every gear, and when left locked if I came to a stop it didnt stall, Spoke to another guy at "the transmission center" at underwood, he said the converter was shot, and when I changed the oil in december, he said although it may have been working then the "fresh" oild pushed it over the edge, he said it would have eventually happened if I hadnt touched the oil, he took it for a test drive today, and could feel the shudder, but he said he thought it would have tried a few times to lock up before going into what he called "safe mode' dropped truck off to him this arvo and hopefully will will have it back thursday or friday... I've read on the net, that their are heaps of people who's converters will try and lock up once and not again until engine turned off and back on, even some people say they get lock up but thren it drops out and wont lock again until everything shut off and turned on again then will do it only once then no further tries at lock up, @ 90ish I can see the tacho go down to 2200 RMP, shudder for a few sedconds then tacho goes up to 2400ish, the guy at this transmission center said the computer see's the speed at the transmission isnt registering lock to.. he said my shudder is like when a disc brake has been over heated and warps, when you put your foot on the brake you get a shudder, he's betting same deal with the plate or at least the lining of the plate in the converter is what the shudder is I feel.. so hopefully spending this 1200ish will fix my problems...
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9th February 2013, 11:10 PM
#98
Turned out to be a O ring in the converter alowing oil pressure to blow past,
not locks up but between 85-95 intermitently unlocks for a fraction of a second, Yesterday when I took it back to the transmission center, he asked me to wire up a test light to the solinoid wire, can confirm that when the tacho jumps, the light on the solinoid wire flickers..
cant get transmission to go into diagnosic mode, power light stays on, no codes
manual it say if the power light stay on and doesnt go though the test its either Inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kick down switch idle switch or the A/T controler is damaged.
1. Inhibitor switch must be working as I can only start the car when in park or neutral.
2. power shift switch is working as when triving if I hit the power switch, it drops down to 3rd, when I turn switch of it will go into 4th and then converter lockup if doing over 85
3 kick down switch is working as if I press accelerator hard it unlocks converter and kicks down a gear, or if driving slowly will drop down a gear, if going really slow and hit the pedal, it kicks down and the power light comes on.
4 idle switch dont know how to check this one
5. A/T controler is damaged. cant test this either as dont have a spare A/T controler at the moment but may be aquiring on in a few weeks.
The tranny guy adjusted my TPS but I noticed today when trying to do self diagnostic's the second I tyrn the key to "on" I could hear a buzzing type sound, climbed under the car and could hear it was coming from inside transmission, disconnecting wiring loom near battery "brown plug" stopped the buzzing..
Adjust TPS back to its origional position and when turn key to on, no buzzing, any one have any idea what would be buzzing in side the tranny. I'm going to call the tranny guy on monday to see what he says.
Also regarding converter unlocking for a split second, only does it between 85-95ish, if I sit on 100 or more, it doesnt flicker the test light, or the tacho, might cut the solinoid wire again tomorrow and run 12V to it via a switch, and see if that stops the intermitent unlock by bypassing the computer all together.
But when I try to do diagnostics, still get same result power like just stays solid, pre him putting the new converter in could do self diagnostics time after time... so something has happended when he has had the tranny out..... I'm open to suggestions to try, and or to give me more questions to throw at him on monday..
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10th February 2013, 08:25 AM
#99
Rotaredom
This thread is now closed, any replies to this thread can be now be posted in the below thread
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...iagnostic-mode.
Cheers
Todd
Time is never wasted when your wasted all the time
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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