-
19th November 2012, 09:45 PM
#11
That is the problem we are having, that is all the mechanic can tell us -'it is coming from the bottom'. He said to pull it apart, find the problem and rebuild it would cost us over $10g's. I was wondering if we can troubleshoot it first, maybe check things like compression, injectors, tappets?? I am not a mechanic - so I dont know if this is possible. The lowest quote for a second hand engine has been $7500, can you find them cheaper- as there is labour involved if we do need to replace it. Just a bit frustrated and confused as to what to do.
-
-
19th November 2012 09:45 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
-
19th November 2012, 10:10 PM
#12
Expert
Get a long screw driver, start the engine and put it to parts of the engine while putting it to your ear, you can then hear the internal parts moving and get an idea where the sound is comming from. Be careful around moving parts. I use this at work all the time to distinguish weird noises (mechanic). The tapping noise could be your valve clearances, but if it is a 2.8 diesel I'm pretty sure they have shimmed hydrolic lifters so they need a specialist to shimm the right clearances. Or you may have cracked your head which is common in the 2.8s. Try and find where the sound is comming from and get back to us.
Sent from my HTC Sensation XE with Beats Audio Z715a using Tapatalk 2
TD42 turbo GQ - ironman snorkel - 4 inch flexy coils - 6" shocks - 3" straight exhaust - pyro and boost gauges in A pillar- uhf - winch - sunraisers - Bluetooth - spotties - front lokka
-
-
19th November 2012, 10:54 PM
#13
Patrol God
If your not confident with doing the above in what diesel-mate said, Getting a compression test should set you back about $100 and wont take a good mech long to find out whats going on. Injectors also are an easy item to get tested and once again a good mech with the right gear should only take maybe 2 hours to do this.
How does it start in the morning? You will be able to tell if its diesel or water thats causing the white smoke, firstly the smell will be different and secondly if its water you can get a small amount of condensation at the end of the exhaust but if your head has had it this will show up in the compression test.
The 2.8's are renowned for doing heads usually at around the 200k mark. It certainly sounds like you need to go elsewhere as the mechs seem to be looking for a quick dollar at your expense.
-
-
20th November 2012, 02:08 AM
#14
Patrol God
It might not be so bad. Had the same sorta thing happen in my old eb 4ltr.
Turns out it was blow by. Were the compression got past the piston, pressurized the bottom end and pushed oil into the intake.
A couple of quick tests you can do which will help you.
-Compression test..
-Pull the intake manifold off and check for oil in it.
-Take rocker cover off and check for broken springs and sticks valves..
-while cover is off check the valve stem gaps.
These will get you started cheaply.
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
-
The Following User Says Thank You to BigRAWesty For This Useful Post:
louise (20th November 2012)
-
20th November 2012, 06:45 AM
#15
Cheers -will try that
Thanks for your advice, I will get onto it.
-
-
20th November 2012, 08:06 PM
#16
To check if it's a cracked head, take radiator cap off, make sure radiator is full and start engine,
if water is pushed out of radiator or bubbles start to appear it will indicate a cracked head,
should be first test before looking internally, but agree with Diesel- mate on screwdriver or stethiscope
old mechanics trick, like Dr listening to your heart.
Drive is 04 DX wagon, 165Ks, Dual Batts, 12000kg Warn in steel bar, Snorkel, Xray 220 Hid Spots, Cruise, digital EGT, Draws in back with power box, 40Ltr Waeco for the essentuals
-
The Following User Says Thank You to choppie For This Useful Post:
louise (20th November 2012)
-
22nd November 2012, 07:06 PM
#17
Expert
Originally Posted by
choppie
To check if it's a cracked head, take radiator cap off, make sure radiator is full and start engine,
if water is pushed out of radiator or bubbles start to appear it will indicate a cracked head,
should be first test before looking internally, but agree with Diesel- mate on screwdriver or stethiscope
old mechanics trick, like Dr listening to your heart.
X2 with radiator bubbles
TD42 turbo GQ - ironman snorkel - 4 inch flexy coils - 6" shocks - 3" straight exhaust - pyro and boost gauges in A pillar- uhf - winch - sunraisers - Bluetooth - spotties - front lokka
-
-
23rd November 2012, 09:46 AM
#18
We found a good diesel mechanic, he straight away said the bearings were shot and the piston is hitting the top part. We need a new engine, cie la vie!. He can rebuild for around $10,000 (with warranty) or can put a second-hand one (no warranty) in for a total of approx. $5000. Does this sound reasonable??
-
-
23rd November 2012, 10:02 AM
#19
Patrol God
A seconhand 1998/2000 GU can be purchased for about the $10/13,000 mark and I would be going that way and keep your old GU for parts
-
-
23rd November 2012, 12:09 PM
#20
Expert
Yeah go for a second hand engine, there should be a warrenty for one atleast 1 month, that's what we do.
TD42 turbo GQ - ironman snorkel - 4 inch flexy coils - 6" shocks - 3" straight exhaust - pyro and boost gauges in A pillar- uhf - winch - sunraisers - Bluetooth - spotties - front lokka
-