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21st November 2012, 11:23 PM
#11
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
Yendor
That advice is incorrect.
If you are currently running 60watt high beam bulbs, by you linking them together you are now running 120watts through that one set of contacts and fuse.
So technically you are running a higher wattage.
What you do with your truck is up to you but advising other people to do that is dangerous.
We got this, and he deemed it fine to carry more than the 140W I'm running..
If your running 80W globes then I'd suggest running relays.
But yes, you run at own risk. It's working for me though..
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
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21st November 2012 11:23 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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22nd November 2012, 05:51 PM
#12
Some feedback. I managed to open up the column and remove the switch, open it up and check it out and reassemble everything in 10 minutes by simply dropping the column to the lowest hight adjustment. No problem with the switch, but that very good advice and another learning for me. Turns out that there is a relay in the circuit but it is faulty (I was fiddling with the relays whilst the high beams were on, heard one of the relays click and the dead circuit suddenly came to life). Thanks for the help guys.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Conradk For This Useful Post:
MC97GQ (22nd November 2012), Yendor (22nd November 2012)
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24th November 2012, 09:51 AM
#13
Originally Posted by
Conradk
Some feedback. I managed to open up the column and remove the switch, open it up and check it out and reassemble everything in 10 minutes by simply dropping the column to the lowest hight adjustment. No problem with the switch, but that very good advice and another learning for me. Turns out that there is a relay in the circuit but it is faulty (I was fiddling with the relays whilst the high beams were on, heard one of the relays click and the dead circuit suddenly came to life). Thanks for the help guys.
Where in the circuit was the relay, where is it physically located...
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25th November 2012, 06:13 AM
#14
It looks like it was tied into the RH high beam feed close to the headlight and then the spots were also wired into the relay. I guess some used their head and realised that juicing up the factory wiring with spots was not going to be clever.
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1st December 2012, 04:00 AM
#15
Car manufactures tend to build wire looms with cable sizes large enough to do the job and that's about it.
beefing up the power demands is playing with fire.
having interdependent switches and fuses is a safety devise / build spec.
and really should be left as the Nissan Gods intended.
burn your 4x4 to the ground with suss wiring, will insurer still pay out ?
Cheers
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE
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2nd December 2012, 12:35 AM
#16
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
Yendor
That advice is incorrect.
If you are currently running 60watt high beam bulbs, by you linking them together you are now running 120watts through that one set of contacts and fuse.
So technically you are running a higher wattage.
What you do with your truck is up to you but advising other people to do that is dangerous.
What this member is not pushing to you guys, is he is an auto elec, so his advice is vital!
Tim
Getting Older Is Unavoidable, Growing Up Is Optional!
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2nd December 2012, 01:31 AM
#17
120 watts = 10 amps load.
in the little wire that was designed to handle near half that.
1 side may well have a slight capabilities higher than 1/2, but again doubt double the strain.
another reason there's independent power for left and right is, if 1 side fails you should still have light.
not trying to harp on, just looking out for ya bro.
cheers
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE
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