What to keep my eye on? Preventative Maintenance

[Robo]

Just a thought and don't know if it will work, but has anyone tried using one of those 5ltr garden sprayers?
Either removing the guts out of the spray nozzle or cutting it off all together...

BTW... fantastic read Tony, well done and many thanks

Cheers Mick.

yep did gear oil in son mav the other day, works fine just a little slow.
but the frustration of trying to do it manually ##@@#@#.
Just need a little bent pipe on end of hose to hook over filer hole.
replace the std tap with a more open design would/should improve flow and I'll be happy as pig in mud
I'm buying a couple cheap 5ltr bottles and keeping em just for this job.

[NissanGQ4.2]

yep did gear oil in son mav the other day, works fine just a little slow.
but the frustration of trying to do it manually ##@@#@#.
Just need a little bent pipe on end of hose to hook over filer hole.
replace the std tap with a more open design would/should improve flow and I'll be happy as pig in mud
I'm buying a couple cheap 5ltr bottles and keeping em just for this job.

Invest in one of these Robo: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOLEDO-GE...item4ac7ca58d3

Once you have one you will be happy as a pig in mud, I have one similar 2 this one and its great for the diffs

[Tomdinneen]

wow tony lot of info to take in there should put that down in a book somewhere great work

[slamnsam]

i thing that the mos important thing of all to do is wash all the mud and dirt etc from all mojour components after each weekend out

[GrizzlyPiet]

Awesome post! An must read resource for all!!
Thank you,
Piet

[Shaunous]

i thing that the mos important thing of all to do is wash all the mud and dirt etc from all mojour components after each weekend out

Sure Is!

This saves plenty of future hassles, also rinsing off all the salt after beach trips, you'll never get it all off but it'll stop electrical problems amungst others.

[Oversize]

It'd be cheaper and easier to buy a brake fluid meter and just measure the water in brake fluid ratio, save changing the fluid and wasting money when you don't need to.

I f@&kin hate bleeding brakes, and I get free brake fluid, I still wouldn't do it annually. Every 2 years I do. Unless you don't have many hobbies and plenty of time, go ahead

Some mechanics do just vac the main reservoir and replace the fluid, but some also just wipe your filter clean and tell you they serviced it, in both instances it shouldn't happen.

Shaunous your a pussy! Here is a DIY thread repeat, just for you and written by a girl!
I had to learn how to do it BECAUSE mechanics are predominantly male and just gave me loads of fresh dribbled dung! I know my brakes are reliable!

my DIY kit includes:
- a $2 squirter bottle - new / empty - and write on it 'brake fluid and/or POISON' so it doesn't get used for anything else.
- a clear glass jar that holds the same volume that the system holds (about 1/2 a litre). Mine has a plastic lid I drilled a hole in, small enough to feed the plastic tube through. Makes less mess.
- a 30 cm length (enough to reach from the bleeder nipple to the floor) of clear tube (soft plastic) to fit on the end of the brake/clutch bleeder nipple
- a bottle of brake fluid, check your vehicle specs to ensure your using the correct type, most use DOT 3 or DOT 4
- a spare person (I have done it on my own and it takes an eternity!)

Process:
1. remove the head from the squirter bottle and place the suction tube directly into the brake/clutch fluid tank and suck the shit out while pumping/squirting it into the clear glass jar until the tank is empty.
2. pour new fluid into the tank until full. Try not to spill the fluid on anything, it tends to lift paint and make a long term mess. Wrap a rag around the tank if you have shaky syndrome.
3. remove the 4 wheels if you have the equipment, otherwise work around them. Starting with the wheel furtherest from the brake fluid tank, take the cap off the bleeder nipple and force the plastic tube over the nipple and place the other end in the glass jar with the old fluid. Crack the bleeder nipple nut enough to be able to hand loosen/tighten it with the correct fitting spanner (not a shifter). Place the spare person in the driver seat and open all the car windows so you can both communicate with each other (be prepared for the spare person to get bored so offer substantial reward for services at this point).
Code words ON - means brake is ON. OFF - means brake is OFF.
Instruct the spare person to place foot on the brake gently to push fluid through the system. When spare person is ON, release the bleeder nut enough to let the fluid out and then close it and yell OFF to the spare person.
Keep doing this until new fluid and no air comes out the tube into the glass jar and keep topping up the brake/clutch fluid tank as you go. Tighten the bleeder nut, remove the tube, replace the cap and move to the next wheel. If you have done it properly you shouldn't have to do it all again to remove any remnant old fluid in the system.
4. Repeat step 3 moving to the next furtherest wheel each time. By the time the last wheel is done watch the brake fluid level in the tank and ensure it finishes on the MAX line. Put the lid back on the tank and the jobs done.
5 Same process applies to the clutch. Check your manual for the location of the clutch bleeder nipple/nut.

When you are done, dispose of the DIY kit thoughtfully.

[Shaunous]

Shaunous your a pussy! Here is a DIY thread repeat, just for you and written by a girl!
I had to learn how to do it BECAUSE mechanics are predominantly male and just gave me loads of fresh dribbled dung! I know my brakes are reliable!

my DIY kit includes:
- a $2 squirter bottle - new / empty - and write on it 'brake fluid and/or POISON' so it doesn't get used for anything else.
- a clear glass jar that holds the same volume that the system holds (about 1/2 a litre). Mine has a plastic lid I drilled a hole in, small enough to feed the plastic tube through. Makes less mess.


- a 30 cm length (enough to reach from the bleeder nipple to the floor) of clear tube (soft plastic) to fit on the end of the brake/clutch bleeder nipple
- a bottle of brake fluid, check your vehicle specs to ensure your using the correct type, most use DOT 3 or DOT 4
- a spare person (I have done it on my own and it takes an eternity!)

Process:
1. remove the head from the squirter bottle and place the suction tube directly into the brake/clutch fluid tank and suck the shit out while pumping/squirting it into the clear glass jar until the tank is empty.
2. pour new fluid into the tank until full. Try not to spill the fluid on anything, it tends to lift paint and make a long term mess. Wrap a rag around the tank if you have shaky syndrome.
3. remove the 4 wheels if you have the equipment, otherwise work around them. Starting with the wheel furtherest from the brake fluid tank, take the cap off the bleeder nipple and force the plastic tube over the nipple and place the other end in the glass jar with the old fluid. Crack the bleeder nipple nut enough to be able to hand loosen/tighten it with the correct fitting spanner (not a shifter). Place the spare person in the driver seat and open all the car windows so you can both communicate with each other (be prepared for the spare person to get bored so offer substantial reward for services at this point).
Code words ON - means brake is ON. OFF - means brake is OFF.
Instruct the spare person to place foot on the brake gently to push fluid through the system. When spare person is ON, release the bleeder nut enough to let the fluid out and then close it and yell OFF to the spare person.
Keep doing this until new fluid and no air comes out the tube into the glass jar and keep topping up the brake/clutch fluid tank as you go. Tighten the bleeder nut, remove the tube, replace the cap and move to the next wheel. If you have done it properly you shouldn't have to do it all again to remove any remnant old fluid in the system.
4. Repeat step 3 moving to the next furtherest wheel each time. By the time the last wheel is done watch the brake fluid level in the tank and ensure it finishes on the MAX line. Put the lid back on the tank and the jobs done.
5 Same process applies to the clutch. Check your manual for the location of the clutch bleeder nipple/nut.

When you are done, dispose of the DIY kit thoughtfully.

Im not a pussy, just precious with my time, and my time is expensive

Did I mention I hate bleeding brakes...

[patrolman123]

ahh yep thatll explain it ^^^^^^ cheers peeps

[Fozzee63]

Cool info on the bleeding air from system 10/10