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hello
is the hook on the drivers side that is bolted to chassis,is that rated as a recovery point.
also i have a nissan bar on the front with the holes in it for d shakle to fit can these be used for recovery as well
just askin
Hi again Neil, What you are referring to will break or straighten, it has no rating.
Not sure what you're saying about the OE bar. Pic is what will replace your hook and
very strong, these are the originals not copies. and rated. Didn't you get my PM??
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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This is a fascinating topic, and there are quite a few threads on here - I use the search function rather than wait for people to send a new response. Make a cuppa and put the feet up is my advice if all the info available here :-) There are also some manuals etc attached.
I use threedogs plates on my Mav. They are very substantial. While they sit fairly low on my Mav, there are other components that set the front approach angle, and I need them that low to get the straps out without rubbing too much on the factory alloy bar.
There are a couple of messages I came away with:
-The person that has to be happy is the person with the vehicle doing the snatching. If they aren't happy with the set up on the snatched vehicle, they shouldn't snatch.
- Most don't seem to like the front hook that comes on the GQ/Mav. Nor the rear loop.
-Depending on the bog, spade work will make the snatch a lot easier on components.
-Snatch straps have become real powerhouses now - years ago, 2 tonnes, now you can get 15 tonners. Apparently for heavy 4wheelers in touring rig with a trailer. The recommendation for my Mav is currently 8 tonnes. Is that breaking strain or some other rating?
- a bridle can be used to share loads across both chassis rails. EvilTwin I think put up a cracker of a post on bridles and how to use them. The longer the bridle, the better, from memory, and don't use a shackle to connect the snatch strap to the bridle. Thread it through the loop.
- at the rear, never use a tow ball. Most are unhappy with 'that' loop on the rear step.
-many people are happy with the hayman reece style receiver - there is controversy about whether the 16mm pin is up to the job, or it is necessary to use a dedicated fitting that goes into the receiver. I personally am happy with the plain pin that Hayman Reece etc sell, but would probably not use the locking pin that I bought to stop the tongue from being stolen. The steel in that locking pin is a bit of an unknown quality.... While I am happy to use the pin, to ensure that the snatcher is happy, I also have a bar and shackle arrangement for those who like that system :-)
- people have been killed by failure of the welds in the short tongue used in receiver hitches, due to unknown corrosion of welds inside the hitch.
Cheers, and apologies that this went beyond your question, I think :-)
RIP - valued member and true gentleman of this forum that will be missed by many!
"As a boat owner and a four wheel drive owner I feel like a pelican: every where I look I see a big bill in front of me”
I like your 1st point, would hate to wear a hook ,what ever, just because other person had dodgey equipment.
Heres an option for the rear, Dont make the hook one anymore, other is strong as and would benefit
from some extra bracing across that rear chassis section, this'll fit GQ/GU all model.
Really need as you say to think recoveries through, far too easy for it to go pearshaped.
Last edited by threedogs; 5th October 2012 at 12:16 PM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
The hook bolted to your chassis (although not rated) is more than capable of handling a snatch out.
It's 20mm steel... As a rigger I'd say good for 10T.
But as for the bull bar plates, I wouldn't use them. Just to be sure.
Sent from a device which doesn't always agree with my thumbs...
big westy this is going over old ground a bit, dont take this the wrong way, you say about 10t
but a lot of GQ have rusted chassis, yes they are good to recover from, ,,,BUT<<< they will break as in snap
and they will straighten. Plus wouldn't think insurance Co.s would cover it, Which bit is 20mm ???
Got a pic?
And Silver your 8000kg rating should mean the strap is good for 8000kg and will break at any time after that.
hard to figure out when you have applied 8000kg pressure hey, but 12,000kg and take your time.
recoveries have never been a race or timed event, use an old blanket/dampener or coat over it as you would with
winch cable. should be a recovery section with only Golden Rules on it. I'll talk to AB when he gets back.
just to exclude towball recoveries from any scenario, I do this for a living So dont like hearing of injuries or damage
Last edited by threedogs; 5th October 2012 at 12:38 PM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
It's a factory fitted recovery point. It would be covered.
But yes I do agree you have to take into consideration condition of hook, bolts and chassis.
I'd happily snatch all day off mine as I know the condition of my equipment and it's looked after.
Yes I'll grab a pick tonight just to confirm were talking about the same gear.
Sent from a device which doesn't always agree with my thumbs...
That flat plate with the round hook welded to it is for flat towing on bitumen roads only from memory.
Not up to your guts recoveries out in the bush I'll go check my manual.
Three holes with captive nuts on RHS and just the holes on the LHS
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Also your snatch strap rated at 8T is its safe working load.
They work on the same principle as lifting gear. The stated weight is a safe weight, they will take more than that, but the risk of breaking increases to much to be a "safe" product
Sent from a device which doesn't always agree with my thumbs...