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Thread: Clutch DIY

  1. #11
    Patrol Freak Parksy's Avatar
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    Nice write up! Some great info here. Wondering if anyone has found it easier to just pull out the engine to replace the clutch?

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  3. #12
    Patrol God
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    Might be easier if you have a stock car with no mods but I could not even find a spot for a winch solenoid with all the extra crap under my bonnet.

    It would take for ever to pull all the stuff out let alone the engine.

  4. #13
    Legendary Alitis007's Avatar
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    I have taken a few motors out rather than gearboxes but most have been diesel and some carby motors, just depends whats quicker to remove on the car. Keep in mind the more electrics a car has, the more complicated it will be to dismantle and remove.

  5. #14
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    I have just finished doing the clutch on my TB42.

    I pulled the motor as I have a gantry block and tackle etc.

    I also wanted to replace my exhaust manifold and check / replace the welch plugs.

    While I had the motor out I replaced the rear central welch plug as it had signs of corroding. I also pulled the big one on the left - had to get a replacement 55mm plug from Nissan ($2.0) as NO one had a 55 mm plug - was cheap in the end.

    By pulling the motor - I was able to refit by my self with out any modifications to the transmission tunnel.

    I did not need to use an alignment tool as I found the clutch was the same size as the machined part on the fly wheel - just had to make certain that it was in the same position on all edges.
    Last edited by GQ TANK; 17th July 2013 at 10:30 PM.
    1991 GQ LWB 4.2 Carby dual fuel, 32 mud claws, 2 inch lift, LSD's front and back

    And its Toooooooo High for the Ball & chain

  6. #15
    Beginner Lera's Avatar
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    Thanks that was very good info, will try to translate the tecnical information to Swedish


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

  7. #16
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    Thanx!! .... I am just doing a RD28 to TD42 Conversion and am replacing clutch .... should be a lot easier seeming a will have everything out but its good to have some detail as to how all goes!

  8. #17
    Advanced Arfa Brayne's Avatar
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    Did the clutch over the past few days, must say it is rather difficult until you work out the tricks, but wouldn't hesitate doing it again now I've worked it out.
    Read all the info on the forums and it wasn't all that helpful in hindsight.
    Bought a transmission adapter for the 2T trolley jack to take the box out = bloody useless,
    jack trans adapt standard.jpg

    so I made my own to put it back in and it worked a treat.
    IMG_1186.JPGIMG_1187.JPG
    You need to be able to adjust the support angle of the adapter to allow for the tilt of the box during removal.


    To remove the gearbox from a stock standard TB42E GQ 5 speed on jack stands, here's the wisdom of hindsight.

    1 - The gearbox is about 550mm high sitting on a jack, but if you lift the 'Trol high enough to get the gearbox out from underneath - make sure the jack has at least 600mm travel, most don't.
    Because of my jack and the height of the box I had to fiddle around with wooden blocks under the car to get the box on and off the jack.

    2- Remove the transfer case first. The gearbox/transfer/bell housing/cross member is seriously heavy.. think around 150kg+.. similar in size to a bus or 10 tonne truck box.
    After you drop the tailshafts, remove the handbrake cable from inside the cab- not the brake shoes. The cab end involves taking out the centre console between the seats = easy, the cable at the brake end is a fiddly, awkward, pain in the arse where you might lose bits or bugger them completely.
    If your transmission jack adapter has a flat plate, you'll need a bit of wood packer to suport the transfer flat and stop it from rolling. Undo the wiring, breather and shifter link end pivot and all the bolts that hold the transfer to the 5th gear extension housing except 1 each side and position the jack and adapter. Remove your last 2 bolts and the transfer will slide back pretty easy off the input spline.

    3- Disconnect battery, Remove exhaust flange bolts & exhaust bracket near crossmember, wiring, clutch slave, starter. Drain gearbox oil. Position Jack and Adapter supporting gearbox in front of crossmember.
    Remove crossmember. Get a helper to lower the box until the rocker cover touches the firewall - keep an eye on heater hoses and vac pipes when you do this to avoid pinching or damage. Losening engine mount bolts will help avoid possibility of tearing the engine mount rubber.
    You can now get to the upper bell housing bolts and shifter cover bolts. remove shifter and all the bolts except the 2x bell housing bolts each side of the bell housing.
    Check position and support of your jack and adapter.
    The engine will rest fairly comfortably on the mounts and the firewall/rocker cover - but not with the weight of the box as well.
    Lift the jack up about 2cm and remove the final 2x bell housing bolts. If you have the box supported on the correct angle it will slide back 10mm once the silicone lets go, and the engine will rest against the firewall. Don't be tempted to put a bit of wood as packer between the firewall and rocker cover or the engine won't tilt back far enough to remove the box.

    4- TRICK = getting the bell housing past the clutch/firewall gap.
    Slide the bell back until it hits the firewall. This should pull the gearbox input shaft out of the clutch spickot and splines. Shine a torch up to check. NOW INSTEAD OF TILTING THE GEARBOX DOWN, TILT IT UP (FLAT) WHILE JACKING IT UP to keep the input shaft central in the clutch pressure plate.
    Once the gearbox is flat, it will slide back far enough (before it fouls the firewall) for the input shaft to clear the pressure plate - then simply lower it down.
    No beating of firewall/trans tunnel, no damage to spickot, not even any swearing ! EASY-PEASY. Put it back in easily the same way without force or dramas. When you put the box back in, engage 4th gear so you can turn the input shaft splines to align with the clutch splines by turning the output shaft.

    5- Other things I learnt - No need to drain transfer case oil, Late GQ's (97) have the same 5th gear short spline problem as early GU's. Range shifter levers are different between early and late GQ's = not interchangeable without modifications due to machining distance of 5th gear housing socket, Fill the gearbox through the gearshift housing while the console and shifter is out if you don't have a decent gear oil pump. EFI GQ's have a neutral sensor on the front of the box.
    Last edited by Arfa Brayne; 1st July 2017 at 01:56 PM. Reason: photos
    "Can't" is a dirty 4 letter word.
    Best way to deal with a "Can't" is to chop off the "t" and brew it in boiled water for a few minutes.
    Sip on the "t", and consider what you've got left to work with

  9. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Arfa Brayne For This Useful Post:

    PeeBee (2nd July 2017), UncleFrosty (1st July 2017)

  10. #18
    Beginner
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    Thanks heaps for this great presentation. I have a TB45 Auto Petrol GU Y61 Wagon and am looking for tips on how to rebuild the clutch. Your post should really help
    Cheers
    Gasman

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