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1st September 2012, 12:28 AM
#11
For starters, who's been doing your work yourself or a Mechanic shop????
You've obviously spent some clams on it of late but have you replaced the air cleaner? Restricted air flow could be one cause for your symptoms.
Your timing is set at 20 degrees. Is this static? (at idle) If its static its to high & you could be over advice at speed. This would cause it to brake down & perform very poorly. I'd like to know more about whats been done to convert your distributor to electronic as well as this may have something to do with you issues.
I'd try dropping it back to 12 to 15 degrees & see if that improves this at all.
Your problem with it not starting on Gas could be as simple as a mixture adjustment, they are quite sensitive especially if your running a 300a setup or it could be a faulty part within the system itself but until you get the other problem sorted I'd not be looking at the Gas.
Last edited by patch697; 1st September 2012 at 12:31 AM.
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1st September 2012 12:28 AM
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3rd September 2012, 08:56 AM
#12
Agree, decided after much checking and asking around not to bother with gas - sold the carby model and bought a td4.2 with 100,000 kms more on it for more money that had new injectors and pump about 50,000 earlier. Questioned my judgement/sanity at the time but have never looked back .Also old tech diesel is much much simpler and cheaper to work on than common rail system.
Cheers and good luck !
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3rd September 2012, 02:50 PM
#13
Ive been doing the work myself.
The air cleaner was replaced when the gas was redone. Also ive fitted the petrinox dizzy module that everyone on here was talking about. The idle is set at static so it might be too much. It doesnt seem to have an issue at high rpm just at low rpm up to 2000rpm. It also seems to get alot worse on longer drives.
Im good at turning spanners just not good at fault finding.
The only things that i havent replaced is the dizzy cap and rotator button.
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
Also for everyone else it came with gas so i kept it on thats the only reason its still on there now.
And im too fond of the old girl now so i cant sell it to buy a diesel even tho i want one.
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3rd September 2012, 02:59 PM
#14
a member of the menagerie
Hey Kymbo,
For the money you've spent you might as well change the Dizzy cap and rotor button, I wont say it will fix your problem, but at least you know you've done everything possible. Then you can start chasing what might be the problem.
Who tuned the motor, you might need to take it to someone who specializes in gas tuning. The biggest problem with dual fuel is there will be compromises as the tuning requirements for gas and petrol are vastly different.
I cant say this is of much help but it is a thought
Good luck with it
Mark
Proud former owner of a 1997 White GQ TD42 Patrol Cab Chassis with an after market turbo, now with over half a million k's and still going strong, that's had a heart transplant and now not owned by me
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3rd September 2012, 04:47 PM
#15
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
Clunk
^^^^^..... When I first got my GQ, I was looking at getting it dual fuelled, decided not to partly for reasons above, also mate had dual fuel Navara, just can't get it to run right on either fuel no matter what.... Cuts out, doesn't start, etc etc........ Just not worth it, for me anyway
Yep... Had gas put on an old falcon V8. It made the car sluggish and downright dangerous to drive. I never knew when it was gunna cut out. After extensive searching, I found loose electric connections, incorrect plumbing from the heater hoses and the rubber in the gas diaphragm kept going slack. This caused it to change the mixture, so I was told. Also found rubbish in the gas lines, bits of rubber and copper shavings etc. So take your pick in what to check first. Good luck mate.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
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3rd September 2012, 06:29 PM
#16
"in my experience with gas on older cars you were supposed to start them on petrol then switch them to gas dont know if its the same on newer gas systems or not as far as i know it is a common prob with running dual fuel although it shouldnt be a bloke i know has his running perfect on both but he is a mechanic
would suggest putting it in the shop and getting a good mechy to tune it. "
I agree - see the mechanic. I believe the idea of starting and finishing on petrol is to keep the gaskets in the carby lubricated
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11th September 2012, 08:48 PM
#17
Make sure you get an extended rotar button - supposed to make the trucks run better and a bit more power
1991 GQ LWB 4.2 Carby dual fuel, 32 mud claws, 2 inch lift, LSD's front and back
And its Toooooooo High for the Ball & chain
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13th September 2012, 03:45 PM
#18
Advanced
common issue with tb42 carbie's is the little s shaped vac hose that goes from the top engine side of the carb to the rear of the carb for the choke disengage, this can split quite easily causing a vacume leak. Also check that the primary jet (idle jet) is not blocked, one way of clearing this is buy removing air filter completly from carb and romeving the 2 screws that hold the splash back pipes on to the top of the carb without dropping them into the carb,start the car rev the engine by hand on the carb linkage get it to high revs then choke it by putting your hand over the carb intake and let go of the throttle so it closes the butterfly, (note it will feel like your hand is being sucked in) do this severall times or until you can notice a difference, if no better check that the auto choke is plugged in and functioning correctly, the choke can cause so many issues. there is a relay under the panel next to the battery, romove relay and see if it makes a difference, if no difference that is your issue. alot of people have sent away carbies to be rebuilt before checking the choke and still having the same problem when they get the carbie back.
hope this info helps. oh and make sure its on petrol when your doing this.
Last edited by patroltb42; 13th September 2012 at 03:48 PM.
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26th April 2018, 06:57 PM
#19
hi there I'm currently having these same issues will be giving this a craack
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