TB42c Carby tune problems

[MudSlut]

I'm in the process of removing my LPG setup and converting it back to full ULP with a main and sub tank, I have the factory Mechanical fuel pump still on the car (not pumping due to being broken or something) and have fitted a Electric fuel pump that is hooked up to the sub tank. The fuel lines run from the Sub tank - Electric pump (with little pre filter) - hard lines - plastic fuel filter (clean) - Mechanical pump - carby. I have left the mechanical pump plumbed in because I couldn't figure out how to run the Fuel return without it. I have fuel pressure up to the Carby where it goes through another little filter (also clean) inside a bolt (Banjo bolt?). The car runs on gas just fine, but as soon as you switch over to fuel and the remaining gas runs out of the line it dies.

I have removed the Carby now because it was loose but I couldn't see how it could be tightened, turns out it is tightened from underneath. I don't think this is the issue as it was running fine on gas even if you wobbled and pulled up on the carby causing a big gap between the carby and adapter plate.

I can't get the Manuals to open to see what screws do what, If someone could help me out with tuning it to run on ULP. I haven't used the ULP in the tank for probably over 6 months as the fuel pump stopped working around about then.

Here is a short video of how loose the carby was, could this cause it to not run on ULP but still run on LPG?


The part I'm holding onto last is as far as the fuel is getting (as far as I can tell)

[taslucas]

Hey mat, the carbys are renoun for doing what your talking about. Gas destroys the carby. My mate is in the same boat... Removed gas and had problem after problem (when he got it, it would run on both gas and petrol). The gas dries out all the rubbers in the carby. Timing for gas is advanced. A backfire on gas can dent the floats. He had the carby off a few times to lube it and check everything but still no go. He even put a gasket kit through with no luck. It had flat spots, little power until above 2000 rpm and very rough idle. I hope yours isn't as bad. But if it is, a rebuild would be the go. Around $400 from procarb.

[MudSlut]

Hmm... sounds expensive for a rebuild Ulvi 4x4 has a EFI tb42 for $1,850 on ebay and I've been looking at Aftermarket EFI systems and a company in the states sells Carby replacement EFI setups with a stand alone ECU for $1,785. Wonder if Peter finch would have a good used carby?

[taslucas]

Yeah it is getting up there in price. My mate ended up buying a rebuilt carby (unused) instead of rebuilding and it was way cheaper. Try giving it all a good spray and soak if inox, crc etc. Work all linkages and rubber boots. Carby cleaner down the throat etc, it might help.
Are you getting fuel into the carby?

[97_gq_lwb]

Pull it down check for worn out crap if it looks ok put a kit through it.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-MAVE...item2c672dfc5b

[MudSlut]

I picked up two cans of CRC carby cleaner today, I'll give it a good go with that hopefully tomorrow, would it be a good idea to blow some compressed air through its bits? After I clean it I'll put it back on and see if it runs, if not I'll rebuild it.

[97_gq_lwb]

Yeah always a good idea to blow it out and check all path ways especially on the pilot jet circuit.
Just make sure your somewhere that bit's won't end up flying off somewhere never to be seen again lol.
I find an oxy tip cleaner handy for unblocking carbs as well.

[MudSlut]

IT'S ALIVE!!! Not really running 100% but it's running. still has to be started on LPG but can be switched over as soon as it is running, won't idle on ULP but drives on ULP great. wasn't running great on LPG after running on ULP maybe due to some left over ULP in the system? Anyhow, I found out why I could smell a strong smell of LPG every time I drove, could have something to do with THIS MASSIVE F*&K OFF GAS LEAK! Video below...

[97_gq_lwb]

Now that is a recipe for disaster .

[MudSlut]

Hmm... Tell me about it.