2" body lift on gq

[BIG PIG]

hey guys there is prob a diy on this but am yet to find it
can any body give me a complete list of parts and parts the require moding
and a basic run down on how to do a 2" body lift this is my first time and would like it to go as smoothly as possible

[Silver]

Never done it, so don't know :-)

An online search turned this info up pretty quick (it is not from this forum) - whether it is correct as well as being easy to find......

http://www.gqpatrol.com/bodylift/bodylift.txt

[BIG PIG]

awesome cheers for that mate will have a read of it

[Silver]

forgot that you'd be removing existing body mounts..... some members provided me with good tips on this, especially for the rear ones which have captive nuts that can be tricky. We are talking about a GQ wagon or shorty? If a ute it is bound to be different :-)

I reckon it is very likely that the body mount bushes are worn/collapsed to some degree, unless they have already been done. Solutions that I have seen include replacing them or packing them, or shortening the crush tube and tightening them up. I can't see that shortening the crush tubes will help body alignment etc, and it would be a shame to cause cracking because they torqued the body. Be seated when you chase up the price of these bushes. Not cheap, and there are plenty of them :-) Maybe that's why people play games with packing with metal and rubber washers. I even saw cutting up bath plugs mentioned :-)

Try searching on body mounts and similar - if you don't find anything pm me and I'll take a look. From memory, the advice was to pop the bungs in the back corners of the cargo area, and make sure the captive nuts and the bolt are well lubricated. Because you only get one shot, use a quality rattle gun on the bolt from underneath.

If the sheet metal holding the captive nut captive fails, the advice from here was that an appropriate si3ed length of square section steel tube can be tapped over the nut to hold it. I ended up paying someone to do mine, and told him about the pipe. He said that a socket drive bar female end would work, I think he may have said 3/4" drive, but can't remember. For some reason he did not use the extension nor the pipe, and enlarged the holes to use other tools to hold the nut. It was then necessary to tap the metalwork flat, and sikaflex the bungs back in place.

[BIG PIG]

lwb mate and with this advise i think i might be ok now will i need to get longer brake lines or anything

[Silver]

can't help you there - someone else will come along who can.

Have you had time to read the doc I provided the shortcut to? It is pretty brief and I dunno whether his total plan for the brake lines is covered by step 3, or was it step 4 - and of course there is other stuff listed, not forgetting catch all step 10 :-)

looking forward to seeing reports and hopefully pickies as you go ahead with this one.

[BIG PIG]

hahaha all good thankyou for all the help mate feel alot more confident on this now

[Silver]

glad one of us does - happy to be of help.

Do you need the lift to fit tyres or something? Put another way, is there a spring lift on the menu as well? And what does the body lift add that more springs wouldn't cover? I'm just asking out of curiosity, not because I know one way is better than the other.

[healy]

Your brake lines don't get affected by a body lift radiator might need to be lowered, you will need to cut the floor around the gear lever (hi/lo) rear captive nuts use heat to loosen them

[BIG PIG]

goin for a body as i have already done a iron man spring and shock set up before the 35's came along and instead of replacing perfectly good springs and shocks i will just lift the body

and thanyou for that healy guess its time to work out my tools and start lifting