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29th October 2010, 11:57 PM
#11
Legendary
hi spoons had this problem also went the long root as you have was told thermostat was ok
got frustrated and replaced it after another 3 months of frustration and low and behold problem sorted
spent lots of money doing the other investigationsand work
i replaced thermo myself and if i had not lissened to the chap who said it was ok could have saved a lot of money
stephen
2007 GU 6 /ST-L / MYO8 / DIESEL/AUTO /MOONSTONE /pro vent 200
OH LEATHER IS NICE
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29th October 2010 11:57 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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3rd November 2010, 01:14 AM
#12
Originally Posted by
The Dogman
I was talking a member of our club at Wednesday night's meeting and he was having the same issue, checked everything and all was good.
Someone told him to put a 5mm spacer on the hinges of his bonnet where it bolts onto the bonnet, this raises the rear of the bonnet so there is an air flow continuously going through the engine compartment.
His problem was solved.
This could be a dangerous idea as in a frontal crash the bonnet can come through the window like a guillotine. Could be an old wives tale but I wouldnt take a chance.
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3rd November 2010, 01:17 AM
#13
Have had my TD42T since new (1999) and this has occasionally been a problem.
Unless the needle is going past the last mark on the guage its only running hot, not overheating.
Generally its a sign of high EGT so try dropping back a gear and have it revving harder (sounds bizarre but true).
I wouldnt worry about mine if it didnt cut the bloody aircon off and make the wife and kids start whinging.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to AJoz For This Useful Post:
Mrowka (9th November 2010), Patrolee (18th February 2012)
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4th November 2010, 08:11 AM
#14
Towing the van from home to Brisbane the temo gauge was going to the first mark fairly quickly. Got a brainwave and decided to remove the spotties (240 Blitz's) just to see what happened. Fixed!!!!! Temp srays on "normal" until pulling up big hills then jumps up. Down the other side of the hill it drops back to normal.
We had the pump tweaked, a boost controller (12PSI) and dynoed and it has made a huge difference. Without the van it is very driveable. Nice smooth power. If you give it a bootful it leaps ahead. With the van it will pull up a reasonable hill in fourth. Temp gauge rarely moves. EGT goes up and down according to throttle position and load. Boost usually up around 8 - 10. All in all a great modification.
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23rd November 2010, 12:15 AM
#15
Just had the viscous hub die on mine so as an experiment i drove it home from Blackwater back to home with an eye on the temp gauge at a constant 100 kms it stayed at 105c only rising to 110c when climbing isla gorge this is with 3 lf240 lights on the front. Ive had the theory for a while now that the fan could be blocking airflow at speed for a while now as ive only experienced overheating at high speeds im going to fit twin thermos off an au falcon over the next couple of days to see if these make any difference
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12th February 2011, 10:22 PM
#16
I have adapted to the big car radiator fan and the large own production, which triggers itself from the enclosure and monitor the temperature of the water and the engine block. Well resolved. recommend
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21st January 2012, 11:11 PM
#17
We have the 4.2 TD engine and it was prone to getting hot. I tried the 5mm spacer and found that unless you really looked you can't see any difference to the Bonnet. With the engine running the amount of hot air passing through the gap is amazing. This helped to keep the engine cooler. I then brought some Redline Water Wetter. This product is imported from the USA and used in drag cars. Not cheap, $32 from Bursons, but it did the trick. We tow a 22' caravan and no matter the outside temperature the gauge never goes above half now.
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