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So after browsing this forum as so many of us do, I saw a thread where someone had made a rear draw system using no ball bearings or runners and thought it might be a bit sloppy but could work if you got it right, nice and tight and lubricated somehow. The person in question got the bits laser cut so all was perfection and it worked and cost $300 or so. Good deal I thought, can you do it cheaper though?My story goes a wee bit like this.
I went to the tip to get some old bird netting today to keep the cats out of the chook pen when I spied a full kitchen unit sitting in the pile about to get destroyed by the weather. So having the fresh forum read in the front of my mind I thought that these ex kitchen cabinets would be perfect to recycle as they would be cut to perfection and where made of MDF and chip board all 16mm of it and laminated at that. I had the GQ there so I chucked them in the rear to see how they went for size, like a glove!! So I covered them in the bird netting and nudged my way out of the tip with the new treasures. Now I am not a chippy or cabinet maker but have the basic yr 10 woodworking skills and a couple of beers under my belt to add inspiration. This set of pics is the following result. Managed to changed the way they opened to length ways instead of width. Bought th piece of ply which is the only thing I bought @ $40 a sheet. The draws are H260mmxW450mmxL900mm, good size. Still needs a bit of work finishing the trim, handles/locks and adding another two base bolts to ensure they don't rip off the truck and some partitions. They work great, the laminate provides good movement even with a load and a bit of wax aids in the movement. They aren't perfect but for the coin I'm stoked. will add some more pics with the finished product tomorrow if all goes to plan. Let me know what you think,
The photos of the roof console. For the front side actually it is bolted together with the clinometer, not to the rear view mirror as I mentioned last night. I used an ally plate painted in black screwed to the console to conceal the opening..
At the 2nd photo, you can see one of the lock nut that hold flat bar bracket to the existing screw holes for the dorm/roof light. The M6 bolts were tighten up with nut (behind the vinyl) so they become as fixed studs protruding out from the vinyl.
heres an update, finished the draws this arvo, got some cheap door trim that fitted perfectly, hardware closed so will go tomorrow for a couple of hinges for LHS, I have also placed an extinguisher on the underside of that flap. Was a fun project and if i can create a better product down the line will do, I have a mesh cargo barrier ready to go in, just need to tweak a few parts and then should be all good to go.
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