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28th June 2012, 09:20 AM
#1
clutch master cylinder or slave?
got a problem guys and girls after picking up my patrol on the weekend and driving it home the two hours. jumped in the next morning and the clutch pedal went straight to the floor. couldn't build up and pressure. checked the fluid level and it was empty so i topped it back up but nothing. would it be one of the cylinders are shot? if so which one would you reckon it is or better to replace both? don't know if either have been replaced before. any help will be appreciated.
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28th June 2012 09:20 AM
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28th June 2012, 09:32 AM
#2
Banned
Did you bleed it when you topped it up mate? If it was empty, then it needs bleeding to regain pressure and feel. Why was it empty also? Leak??
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28th June 2012, 09:35 AM
#3
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28th June 2012, 09:40 AM
#4
RIP - valued member and true gentleman of this forum that will be missed by many!
generally the bottom one - the slave, fails before the master. A mechanic explained to me that in the case of brakes, the moisture that gets into the fluid, accumulates at the low points - the wheel cylinders in that case. I suppose the same applies to disc calipers.
On my Mav, the slave cylinder is also pretty close to the exhaust, which must make life interesting for it.
If your clutch master cylinder is not vacuum boosted, leaks to the outside world that are just starting up should be visible. Mine has a booster, and when the master cylinder (now replaced) leaked, the leak was into the booster and not apparent, from memory, until it had been going on for some time. Back then it was the factory master, and the reservoir was much bigger than the egg cup that came with the replacement :-(.
So, I don't think they generally fail at the same time, with the master lasting longer than the slave. I gather that GQs can be cows to bleed - dunno about the others. I hope these factors help you with your decision.
Doubtless others will be along to share their experience. Edit - I see growlers and BigRig already have!
RIP - valued member and true gentleman of this forum that will be missed by many!
"As a boat owner and a four wheel drive owner I feel like a pelican: every where I look I see a big bill in front of me”
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28th June 2012, 09:41 AM
#5
Beginner
Pretty sure it would be the slave cylinder.... mine failed recently, slow leak i didnt know was there until i drove down the road and got no pressure on the pedal. very easy to replace and only $38 from memory. A real pain to bleed by yourself though, try to get someone to help.
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28th June 2012, 10:50 AM
#6
cheers guys will try to bleed it this arvo. couldn't see any visable leaks. no booster and its the opposite side to the exhuast. will let you know how i go thanks for the input.
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28th June 2012, 01:09 PM
#7
SPAMINATOR
I gather that GQs can be cows to bleed -
Doubtless others will be along to share their experience. Edit - I see growlers and BigRig already have!
Mine was an absolute mofo to bleed
I eventually had to crack the bleeder and pump the clutch pedal flat out till the fluid came through then with pedal depressed close the bleeder. I tried for hours to bleed it the "proper" way and couldn't get any fluid to come through at all
Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, what's that freakin noise?!
IF YA DONT GET STUCK YA AINT TRYIN HARD ENOUGH........OR YA TOOK THE CHICKEN TRACK
WARNING: TOWBALLS USED WITH SNATCHSTRAPS DO KILL!!
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28th June 2012, 02:14 PM
#8
Expert
Mate bleeding is easy if you know how.
Back bleed..... Get yourself a 30ml syringe from vets or stock feeders and some clear hose about 5mm int. Dia. Crack the slave cal nipple an the nipple on the block near the passenger side. Using a self bleed kit, put it on the block nipple. Fill the syringe with brake fluid and pump it through from the slave cyl. When the syringe is empty turn off the slave nipple, to fill the syringe again and reopen the slave nipple ti squeeze more fluid into the line. Do this several times, then close off the slave and block nipples. Now take the cap off the master cyl. And start pumping fluid back into the line from the slave. Make sure you do not over fill the master's resevoir. If it gets full, suck some fluid out with the syringe. Once you are happy that it is flushed close te slave cyl. Now flush fluid from the block back to the master cyl again making sure it doesn't over flow. Close everything and check clutch pressure.
It is slow ad tedious. But easy enough to do
Tap,tap,tapping in your head
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28th June 2012, 09:33 PM
#9
Once you replace one usually the other fails soon after
1991 GQ LWB 4.2 Carby dual fuel, 32 mud claws, 2 inch lift, LSD's front and back
And its Toooooooo High for the Ball & chain
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28th June 2012, 09:53 PM
#10
SPAMINATOR
Originally Posted by
growlers71gq
Mine was an absolute mofo to bleed
I eventually had to crack the bleeder and pump the clutch pedal flat out till the fluid came through then with pedal depressed close the bleeder. I tried for hours to bleed it the "proper" way and couldn't get any fluid to come through at all
Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, what's that freakin noise?!
Doing it my dodgy way got the job done in 2-3 minutes ;-) start to finish
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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?sccj32
Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, what's that freakin noise?!
IF YA DONT GET STUCK YA AINT TRYIN HARD ENOUGH........OR YA TOOK THE CHICKEN TRACK
WARNING: TOWBALLS USED WITH SNATCHSTRAPS DO KILL!!
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