MQ lift ideas/tips/guidance needed

[aussiemale]

G'day gurus,
Would like some feedback please on the following;
How high can one raise the ride height of a MQ as it's not on coils?
How hard is it to do?
To save me looking any dumber than possible, please check my build page (Bryan's MQ/MK build) and you'll get an instant idea on how new I am to all this. When talking parts, please keep it simple for me..do have google but that does slow me down.
Thinking, and please correct me if I'm taking the wrong track, that as I'm taking off the body of the MQ to put the body of the MK onto it, that would be the best time to do any suspension work.
Also on a side note, anything else that I could do without the body on please let me know. Would be really "annoyed" if I raise a question later on in my rebuild and get told..oh, you should of done that before you put the body on.
All feedback will be appreciated and as each idea I take on gets completed will post pics, I'll try to keep my ugly mug out of it.

[GQ TANK]

You have three options - you also need to consider your legal implications if you go for more then 50 mm lift.

Body lift - (I run a 50 mm on my MK LWB) You put spacers between the body and chassis. You willneed to remove the hydulic line between the clutch clave and must cylinder from the mounting point on the fire wall. The gear stick hole needs to be modified as you will find it hard to go into low. Some guys have had to change the filler for the fuel tank.
I done my lift to ensure non of my LPG tank hangs below the chassis


Suspension lift
Spring lift - expensive you replace the springs with after market

Shackle extension i.e superior eng. I belive guiys can have issues with schackle inversions

SOA (sping over axel) has been done lifts the body & chassis. Needs engineering and majoe rework

[aussiemale]

You have three options - you also need to consider your legal implications if you go for more then 50 mm lift.

Body lift - (I run a 50 mm on my MK LWB) You put spacers between the body and chassis. You willneed to remove the hydulic line between the clutch clave and must cylinder from the mounting point on the fire wall. The gear stick hole needs to be modified as you will find it hard to go into low. Some guys have had to change the filler for the fuel tank.
I done my lift to ensure non of my LPG tank hangs below the chassis

Thanks for that, would you have any pics that you took in the build? In ref to the spacers, where do you put them (obviously on the chassis but where on it). I want to do the full monty on it but want to do it right the 1st time.

[GQ TANK]

I got the spacers with my truck when I purchased it.

You can get kits from ebay.


You replace the existing bolts with longer ones and fit the spacersbetween the chassis and body. The spacer slips onto the bolt like a washer.

You need around 8 spacers for a LWB

[aussiemale]

So I don't need to play around with the steering or anything like that? Just would think if I raised the body, the angle would increase or does the steering rod pivot thingie (buggered if I know what it's called but did warn I've got not much of a clue) have enough flex for that?

[Aiden]

when i body lifted my mq i had to loosen the steering shaft before i lifted it, then just tighten it up once lifted (just so there wasn't any pressure on it). i also had to extend my fuel filler, extend my clutch line from master to slave cylinder, watch out for the fan hitting the radiator shroud and watch out for the fuel return lines.
Most lines and electrical lines have between 2 and 3 inches play, so a 50mm body lift is reasonably easy. especially if your going to have the cab right off.

I would also suggest if your going to have the cab off, do a really good job of rust proofing your chassis and suspension!!!

[aussiemale]

Thanks aiden,
I'm intending to give the chassis and running gear a complete going over when I take the body off as don't want to be doing a half arsed job that will be needing looking at in the near future. My logic is that if you do it without having a body on it, it should make it a damn sight easier and with only losing fraction of skin on the knuckles, depleting minimal stock of cursings and working with feel only. Need all that when I replace the body!!

[MQ MAD]

The hints and tips above are pritty good
Youll need to remove the lower radiator shroud, its a two piece and unbolts easy unuf,but it can ,maybe,possibly run hotter without it, so maybe make a new one
The main steering shaft to the steering box youll remove when doin a body lift, so when you retro fit after the body swap youll adjust this accordingly,usually youll adjust it on the splines on either the main steering shaft or the shaft on the steer box
The clutch line on the firewall , you can either bend the bracket downwards towards the gearbox, or the best is to replace it with a new extended hose, pirtek or other hose people can help
Its best IF you do replace it , as when doin the body lift the hose gets stretched and can have future issues, splitting ect,no fun when you have no clutch....
The shifter floor plate needs to be opened up ,as mentioned ,but youll then need new shifter boots as the factory ones wont fit anymore
Supercheap or the wreckers should help there
Spring lift ,2" is the norm and all you can go legally,youll also need extended shocks to suit
Shackles, extended shackles arent legal in many if any states in aussie land, so check if they are in your world ...

[aussiemale]

Having to fly to syd next week and am trying to source a set of spacers going cheap but not cheap if you know what I mean so if anyone has a contact/price would be awesome. Have had a look on Ebay with no luck.

[Finly Owner]

The body lift spacers replace the factory ones.



Tim