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Thread: GQ clutch issue

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    GQ clutch issue

    hi all, the old gq has an issue. When driving for a while, pedal rises and goes hard until eventually clutch wont disengage. She has a new master, slave and hose and ive bled the crap out of it and also sent to a mechanid for a shot of bleeding, i dont think its a bleeding issue. Any tips? cheers

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    sorry, its a 4.2 injected petrol...

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    Expert luvpsi's Avatar
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    im having a similar problem with my GQ TD42 clutch it fine but sometimes the clutch seems to go soft and engages pretty much on the floor and when i take my foot right off let it compltely rise it goes fine again i have bled it and changed fluid and still does it my master and slave cylinders are not leaking so im not sure what it is

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    Expert Richo460's Avatar
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    next time it happens, see if you can get someone to check underneath and see if the clutch fork is moving or not, that might give a better indication of a problem.
    If you going through hell...Keep going

    GQ wagon locked - lifted - 33's, 02 SS ute, XB coupe 460bb, KTM530

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    ok mate, will do . Cheers

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    Administrator AB's Avatar
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    x2 on checking the fork underneath for movement. I had similar issues above and it turned out the fork was slightly bent causing restriction...Easy fix!

  8. #7
    Patrol Freak
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    Another thing to look at is the freeplay in the master cylinder make sure the piston is coming all the way back
    .
    I have seen this sort of thing on bikes over the years from the wrong lever being used it causes the brakes to eventually lock up.
    Last edited by 97_gq_lwb; 13th May 2012 at 05:47 PM.

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    I have the same problem with my TD42

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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    You havn't dropped a spring off the pressure plate have you that makes'em spongy
    04 ST 3lt auto,I have NADs,Diesel Smart tigged Intercooler + ARE scoop, TJM snorkel, DP chip and 3"Zorst, GPS tracking sys, in dash TV, GPS.Blue tooth. Cruise control, 240watt light bar, awning, Outback side steps, DVR, 100watt HID driving lights, internal spare wheel, Faux wheel on rear door. heated Stratos driver seat with lumbar, custom roof rack, well set up tourer, F + R recovery points. Warn 9.5 XP winch with Dyneema rope.Dimmple drilled and slotted rotors

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    First question, did all this happen when you replaced the master cylinder etc? If so I would be looking at the free travel between the booster & master cylinder. Also look at the free travel between the pedal rod & booster. There must be clearance between all.

    Next one, when the pedal goes hard, try cracking the bleeder and see what happens.

    It appears to me that you have a booster/master cylinder problem if this only started after replacing parts.

    You will also find that the Patrol's and 99.9% of other vehicle's pressure plate do not have springs in them, they have a diaphragm. The springs are found in the clutch plate to take up the shock loads that are applied during operation.

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