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9th April 2012, 09:31 AM
#11
Smart like tractor
are you running the correct gearbox oil, it should be a friction modified oil (VMX 80)
96 GQ coil/Cab
08 G6eT
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thebeatjackson (9th April 2012)
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9th April 2012 09:31 AM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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9th April 2012, 12:45 PM
#12
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9th April 2012, 01:21 PM
#13
G`day mate
check the hydraulics first. with the engine off bleed the booster by pumping the pedal a few times until the pedal is firm to push to the floor, if it has a small amount of free travel then is firm to push to the floor then the hydraulics are more than likely ok and your problem is the clutch it`s self.
If it`s the clutch it could be a number of things.
1 a cracked fork
2 a cracked diaphragm spring
3 a broken pressure plate hold back clip there are 3 or 4 of these can`t remember off hand
4 a broken fulcrum ring
all of these require box removal
hope this is of some help
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The Following User Says Thank You to pearcey For This Useful Post:
thebeatjackson (9th April 2012)
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9th April 2012, 01:22 PM
#14
if the clutch has a soft line, ie rubber hose , check to see that its not bulging under presure too...
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thebeatjackson (9th April 2012)
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9th April 2012, 01:33 PM
#15
Expert
should be using a gl-4 oil in a patrol gearbox. vmx-80 and vmx-m work well
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The Following User Says Thank You to billyj For This Useful Post:
thebeatjackson (9th April 2012)
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9th April 2012, 01:41 PM
#16
Originally Posted by
pearcey
G`day mate
check the hydraulics first. with the engine off bleed the booster by pumping the pedal a few times until the pedal is firm to push to the floor, if it has a small amount of free travel then is firm to push to the floor then the hydraulics are more than likely ok and your problem is the clutch it`s self.
If it`s the clutch it could be a number of things.
1 a cracked fork
2 a cracked diaphragm spring
3 a broken pressure plate hold back clip there are 3 or 4 of these can`t remember off hand
4 a broken fulcrum ring
all of these require box removal
hope this is of some help
Seems to be in the hydraulics from this test, pumped the cluch pedal for about 2-3 minutes with little to no change in firmness.
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9th April 2012, 01:43 PM
#17
Originally Posted by
billyj
should be using a gl-4 oil in a patrol gearbox. vmx-80 and vmx-m work well
cheers, I'll change it again, do you use the 80 or the m is there much of a difference between them?
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9th April 2012, 01:59 PM
#18
Originally Posted by
thebeatjackson
Seems to be in the hydraulics from this test, pumped the cluch pedal for about 2-3 minutes with little to no change in firmness.
If there is no fluid leak the mater can be bypassing internally
Start the engine hold the clutch down with the car in gear for a minute or so and if the car starts to slowly creep away then the master is bypassing
If it is the master fit a new one don't re kit the old one as the have a special coating on the bore and honing removes this and premature wear becomes a problem
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The Following User Says Thank You to pearcey For This Useful Post:
thebeatjackson (9th April 2012)
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9th April 2012, 02:13 PM
#19
Originally Posted by
pearcey
...
Start the engine hold the clutch down with the car in gear for a minute or so and if the car starts to slowly creep away then the master is bypassing
...
I haven't tried this yet, but I do remember it doing something like this when sitting at traffic lights.
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9th April 2012, 02:22 PM
#20
Originally Posted by
thebeatjackson
I haven't tried this yet, but I do remember it doing something like this when sitting at traffic lights.
Any dout change the master not that expensive and cheaper than pulling the box.
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