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bit rough and agricultural i know but use some talc powder or flower and dust it all over the suspect area and check it regularly then you should be able to get a rough idea from where its comming...

i figure honesty is the best policy in this case, the low price would draw suspecion anyway

have put an ad up in the forsale section with a price i believe is very fair and shouldnt last long, thanks for every ones help

lol im not that worried

sorry mate miss read you question, its because of the steep gradiant of the roads, to save the brake pads wearing out so quickly

it was on a site down here in tas not sure how long for.
its bound to rust thats where my drama is in putting a price on it
as long as the potentional buyer knows of the facts im happy to let it go...

no not much driving it was a bosses bus.
its a vaccum operated diaphragm on the exhaust, so when your foots off the accelerator and not clutch the diaphragm closes and forces the gasses out a small...

ive had a few inquiries about kms its 48000 not 480000 and wasnt a typo, cheers

howdy,
trying to figure out how to put a price on my ex mines gu wagon.
its a 2002 gu dx with 48000 kms 4.2 turbo
had new 2pak paint new 285/75/16 mickey mtrs on new black sunnies with 2 in lift...

good earth?

id try this easy test before getting to that stage, try this

1. Turn ignition switch to ON and change odo/trip meter to ‘‘TRIP
A’’ or ‘‘TRIP B’’.
2. Turn ignition switch to OFF.
3. Turn...

its a 4.2 tdt.
looks like i may have to ask the dealership........... bet thats gunna sting!

thanks, thats the one i did try, but no good, it mentions about the check engine light........ mine doesnt have one, just the exclamation mark in a cricle for handbrake?

hi there
i am having trouble on locating info on how to erase codes. i have a c reader but the plug config is different, is there an adapter to fit this or can i manualy bridge it out? i tried...

i know its a big ask but im chasing some dimensions to knock up a rear bar simlar to this be greatfull if any one can help out.
cheers warey

ok time for update...... had a huge look underneath and decided its not really woth the hassel of removing the body to do what i wanted to do to it. just put up with working around components

well ive had my fair share in removing broken and busted studs, fittings, plugs and every thing else you could think of, yes easy outs are the go, however dont go the normal ones as these are...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Patrol-GU-2-50mm-Coil-Suspension-Lift-Kit-/270811023128?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f0d984718 iknow you get what you pay for but i thought id give them...

i can take some after shots, have removed the rear diff to weld up the crack in the chassis i found near the rear left spring housing and will leave the diff out untill the new springs turn up so no...

thanks guys just brought a aset of 2 inch lift coils and shocks thnks again fot you help

im sure its been brought up before but i cant find what i was looking for.
has any one used 50mm coil spacers? are these a good thing or waste of money and time and jst better off buying longer...

as some of you may know im rebulding a 02 dx gu wagon ex underground bus. long story short i was told from people that had rebuilt these before that the air bag modules are taken out, got hold of one...

you can pick up a reasonably good multimeter from some where like leading edge electrical or dick smith for under 50 bucks. may as well grab a test light while your there, makes testing fuses heaps...

no dramas at all i know it may appear that im stuck on mutimeters but learning how to correctly use a meter was a big help to me when i started out and i quickly found if you miss enterpret what it...

found this in one of my old text books

1.Set up the meter for a continuity check
Make sure there is no power connected to any circuit that you test for continuity, then prepare the Digital Volt...