Have you checked for any fault codes before swapping stuff out? A NATS issue will throw a code.
Type: Posts; User: jff45
Have you checked for any fault codes before swapping stuff out? A NATS issue will throw a code.
Just to save you some time, the outlet from the Dakota converter connects to the yellow/black wire that you cut from the ECU. The ECU has no connection anymore with the tacho. No need to connect...
TB45 sensor just bolts in.
Marks4WD sell the Dakota.
I did both with my conversion back in 2015 and still running well.
You need a Dakota Digital tacho signal converter. Search on that and you’ll find tons of info about it.
You also need to use the original TB45 temp sender.
There are more poorly done conversions out there than good ones. If you were really set on a TD42, the only ones to consider are stock late model TD42Ti with reasonable Kms and good service history....
With my recent caliper overhaul job I used a tube of Bosch rubber grease. You can put it on everything brake related even on the seals and pistons.
Now doing the front calipers so that will finish a complete overhaul of the whole 20 year old braking system including the hydro boost unit, complete set of braided lines, new slotted rotors front &...
Finally, someone who prices things sensibly..
If you're in Brisbane metro north, I also have the same unit with 160,000 kms. Also free but I won't post :)
Marks4WD supply a complete kit for GU Patrols. It’s an AC Delco unit, as fitted to several GM vehicles, and Marks make and fit the adaptor plates and pushrod. The unit replaces the vacuum booster and...
I don’t need any more power than what I currently have. It was the brakes that couldn’t keep up but that’s all fixed now with the hydro boost and decent rotors and pads front and rear.
You won’t...
Just following the instructions on the VHT Caliper Paint can. They say for max chemical resistance to bake for an hour at 200F.
They probably would cure over time anyway with brake heat but baking...
You can always manage trans temps with the manual TC lockup. Just engage it when not under load and avoid loading it once locked. You'll see the temps drop quickly.
There are those who are happy to...
You should be running above your stall speed on the highway so I'd expect it to run cooler because of that. I use the stock J6 TC which stalls around 1950-2100 and with 3.9 diffs it doesn't often get...
Ideal operating temp is generally considered to be around 80C but with low stall TCs and/or TC lockup, the temp being pumped out by the TC is often lower.
Mine can get down to 65-70 pre cooler on...
I think I moved mine to behind the bullbar when I changed my airbox. I'm pretty sure the bracket is still there since I threw it away when I converted to diesel.
I don't know what the effect of...
I think there’s a vacuum hose to the engine that burns them off. Been a while since I dealt with that kind of thing. Google might be your friend there..
All baked, rebuilt & refitted. Just need to bleed it all and try it out..
85257
I can’t see any image but I’ll guess you’re referring to the charcoal canister that filters petrol fumes
Remember that you’re reading the fluid temp pre cooler. It’s almost certainly under 100C by the time it gets back to the trans.
Overhauling the rear brakes. Rebuilding calipers and fitting RDA rotors with DBA Extreme pads.
Decided to paint the calipers but need to bake them in the oven tomorrow before fitting the new...
Yep, it needs the VDO short sensor
I’ve found the most practical spot to fit the sensor is in the outlet banjo bolt where the TC pumps the fluid to the cooler. The inlet to the cooler will have pretty much the same temp but the banjo...
Good result! That also explains why your trans temps weren't moving, no flow through the cooler. The return from the trans cooler lubricates the rear.
I meant the whole vehicle with all that camping stuff packed in :)