Search:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Engine-Fan-Clutch-Assembly-fits-Nissan-Patrol-GU-RD28TI-Turbo-Intercooled-/291500463341?ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:AU:1123

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291493213275?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Used, in good condition.

1 day bidding left.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291476597486?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Anyone?

I'll be taking the thing to bits anyway, but thought someone might have had the same problem or similar.

Let's hope so NP99

Going back out now to attack this damn water pump pulley and fan hub, how it's so seized is beyond me.

Hi All,
Hoping someones had there engine apart before or at least has any info on my problem.

After spending 3 hours stuck in the ghetto of the Gold Coast after my patrol (1998 GU RD28ti) went...

Im not a pussy, just precious with my time, and my time is expensive :tease:

Did I mention I hate bleeding brakes...

Unless the head gasket is fuked, should be able to see water marks or trails if this is the case Ned, if you know what your looking for.

Or like Dales said, some weak prick has drowned it, cleaned...

My question exactly, how's the piston top look? or is there cracks in the head as I mentioned earlier which would give u a hydraulic lock from coolant.

Why the bent conrod Ned?

Any cracks in the head or damage to piston or valves?

Glad you have now found a result mate, might not be a good one, but at least you have narrowed it down to something.

Remove the head and inspect first before u go buying anything, may get away...

You know how to do a correct compression test Yeh?

Wind it over say 3 revolutions, and do that exactly the same for all cylinders, consistency is what your looking for. Don't keep winding until it...

Yeh, normally you do a standard compression test dry, then a wet one (adding a small amount of oil to seal the ring gaps, but that'll only tell you is you have ring or bore wear), but yeh what you...

Be simpler and cheaper to swap 2 injectors first and decide wether the problem moves with the 4th injector or stays with the 4th cylinder, if it stays with the cylinder then do a compression test.

Sure Is!

This saves plenty of future hassles, also rinsing off all the salt after beach trips, you'll never get it all off but it'll stop electrical problems amungst others.

If you haven't already, swap the 4th injector with another one in your engine you know works perfect, that will at least narrow down a few things, but change nothing else, only swap 2 injectors...

Thanks lads, this week will be the true test to determine the problem. Will comment back on results.

Hey ABi've had a read of the forum rules but can't find anywhere bout being a vendor. Can you put a link up to it for me. Cheers,
Shaun.

Right-O will leave the hubs in lock and see what happens.

I'm guessing if this fixes the problem I'll need new hubs, I'd imagine they would wear out fairly quick driving my average 200km a week.

Well I got a tricky one. I'm guessing it's probably the auto hub, but thought I'd ask if anyone else has had the problem.

It's a grinding rattling noise coming from what sounds like the right...

Removed temporarily by AB

On eBay

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Patrol-GU-Air-Filter-Seal-Oring-O-Ring-/291061593408?ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:AU:1123

On eBay

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Patrol-GU-Air-Filter-Seal-Oring-O-Ring-/291061593408?ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:AU:1123

It'd be cheaper and easier to buy a brake fluid meter and just measure the water in brake fluid ratio, save changing the fluid and wasting money when you don't need to.

I f@&kin hate bleeding...

Good lord, thats some inlet pressure!