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Never touched it where it was wet under transport cover.
I assume it's cold as water simply doesn't form on a warm surface.
Guess I'll have to run a test to see what's what.
And yes these fridges are very efficient, perfect for solar.
This was one reason I chose engel.
The other motor design less moving parts and proven track record.
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Is anyone using or had experience with the Redarc BCDC 1225 with solar? I was just looking at these units when I read on another forum that these tend to prefer Redarc solar panels and sometimes have difficulty charging with other than Redarc solar panels.
This seems really odd to me, so thought I'd check to see if anyone here might use one and or whether anyone might have heard of this issue?
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Very interesting FNQGU. I have the BCDC1225, currently setup as a normal dual battery controller, no solar.
But I am looking at adding portable solar setup, utilizing the Redarc unit. I would love to hear if anybody else here knows about this.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=64228&stc=1
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It doesn't sound right to me. How would it know what type of panel is providing the feed? It's not like solar panels have chips in them.
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... it's Redarc trying to pump their own panels
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@ Eric that 50 amp anderson plug at the front of my Patrol
is for solar to my AUX battery, ,,,,,,or just to plug in a light
if another is required at camp, It also plugs into a watt meter
as well
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-L...0AAOSwLVZVuJGt
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I use the 1225 in my camper. Its wired in for car charging and solar. I just returned home today from a two week camping stint using two non Redarc branded panels with zero issues.
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
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I was just advised by an Auto electrician that solar panels should not ever be disconnected (eg. Anderson Plug to vehicle BMS) while they are still producing current.
Has anyone else heard this?
The reason I ask is that I am looking at being able to re-direct solar input from the Redarc BMS that manages the rear mounted main Aux battery, to a BCDC1225 under the bonnet that handles a front mounted Aux battery. I had it in mind that I could just disconnect the Anderson Plug from the panels to the vehicle, and plug it back into a second Anderson plug that feeds the front charger but am advised I would need to cover the panels or turn them over or something and then make the switch.
Alternatively, although possibly over-complicating things, could I wire in a switch to make the change instantaneous?
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Connected or disconnected?
Well, either way I s'pose, Yes, that is 'technically' correct, sorta...
Connecting...
Not a great practice but most people don't give a rats rrse.
The Panel will be at Vmax until it is connected so will have 20 volts or so at the terminals (or a bloody sight more if it is a 24 or 32 Volt panel)
Sooo... 'technically' you could spike something.
Normally, the safety factor is the battery which is a huge capacitor so damps any spikes BUT there can be circumstances were the spike may get into the vehicle electrics
Disconnecting...
Would be like a 1 in 1,000 issue but could get a spike as the BMS changes over or if the disconnect isn't clean.
I would be more concerned about connecting myself
Bottom line is it has pretty much the same risks as connecting/disconnecting batteries, jump starting or connecting accessories that may have residual power (capacitors)
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... should have added;
The 100% ideal is to;
1. Always connect the battery to the BMS or Reg before the connecting the panel (this IS a bloody good thing to do)
2. Cover or face the panel away from the Sun and connect to Reg/BMS and then remove cover or orientate panel
Disconnection should be in the reverse
Real world #2 is often ignored and will only usually cause a problem if there is already another issue as well