2013 Y61 3.0 CRD .. time for Dawes and Needle valves

Planning on fitting the two valves sometime in the next few weeks .. read so much about it I think I am overthinking things, especially when there are comments of "it will only take half an hour to do" .. so to that end, is there a definitive, picture by picture .. step by step .. idiot (me) proof guide for the 2013 Y61 model that is all in one place? I also need to know if there are any other fittings required apart from what was sent by 3 bar racing. I have already fitted the 3inch exhaust and dump pipe, provent catch can and have the EGT and boost pressure gauges up and running.

If its your first time. Allow a few hours. Make sure you have everything there first before you start. The hardest part is picking up a boost pressure reference point. The rest is straight forward really.

there is lots of threads here with info and pic's and diagrams. it has been a bit of a hot topic at times. use the advanced search feature and put in dawes and needle valves .to get a boost pressure point i bought a fitting from ebay that fits on the intercooler at the same place as the cars standard boost pickup . you can find pic's of these in posts as well.

Boost pressure reference point? Do you mean the fitting of the boost pressure line for the gauge?

so basically, this video shows the exact setup that is required apart from the valve brand (tillix vs dawes)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timbo2410

Boost pressure reference point? Do you mean the fitting of the boost pressure line for the gauge?

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Yes. And also the Dawes valve. It requires boost pressure to work.

I did mean to post the link of the video :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6ZJmZ_qfdQ
or this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tQziIey884

So the plumbing will be exactly the same as in this video? In which case I will have to get hoses and reductions to link it all up along with the same for the boost gauge.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timbo2410

I did mean to post the link of the video :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6ZJmZ_qfdQ
or this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tQziIey884

So the plumbing will be exactly the same as in this video? In which case I will have to get hoses and reductions to link it all up along with the same for the boost gauge.

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Your spot on.
The design principle is the same for both tillix and dawes.
There are a few internal differences between the 2 which I prefer the tillix but both do the job.

The biggest fk up people make is fiddling with both valves together..
Your gunna get very frustrated..
Being a crd you have no spool limp like the older Di engines so if you wish you can leave the needle out.
Thus gives max spool rate.
Depending on driving style you may use a little more fuel but the engine will determine all that itself with load on the engine.

After running both I noticed a 1lph gain by fitting the needle valve and reducing cruising boost a few psi, but I also noticed an egt rise of a hundred or so due to the lower boost..

So have a play..
Setting .
Always set max boost (dawes or tillix valve) with needle fully closed..

Then once your happy with the max boost (aim for 16-17psi) then with the engine at idle open the needle valve until the vnt arm on the turbo just moves off the top limit screw..
This should give you a few less psi cruising, but not sacrifice spool up rate..


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Best thing I ever did to my Patrol. Made such a difference, turned it from a nice thing to drive to a great thing to drive.

Thanks to @bigguwesty ^^^ for helping me fit mine back about 12 months ago.