patrolapart is closed untill the 5th of January.
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patrolapart is closed untill the 5th of January.
Depends what is wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by robewott
Mine had two broken wires, one on the outside at the point where they enter the encapsulation and the other on the thermistor on the sender itself .
If it is something like that then a dremel and a soldering iron will fix it but if it is the sender unit windings or whatever then you are better off getting a replacement sender (new, secondhand or wrecker).
The whole float arm had fallen off. I've put it back in & burred it over but i still have no continuity on one wire. So the sub tank light is still on. The gauge works though. I will have to get another one.
It is crap construction. Very light.
I dented the underneath of the rear tank a while back so this was probably an inevitable result..
Thanks for your help. cheers.
Which wire and what works now... and did you disconnect the battery?
The only way to reset the Sub Tank Warning is to remove power to the Sub Tank Computer even if you fixed the fault.
On the main tank plug
Pin 1 to Pin 2 - small resistance (sender unit winding for main tank fuel gauge)
Pin 3 to Pin 2 - Open unless Tank is 3/4 full or more (full switch for sub tank computer)
Pin 5 to Pin 2 - Open unless Tank is almost empty (empty switch for low fuel level warning)
black and yellow have continuity, red does not. Both fuel gauges work. The sub tank does not.
I had the battery disconnected for about 5 minutes. The rear tank is about 1/4 . I'll ground those wires. sub full.
Bummer...Quote:
Originally Posted by robewott
If you run the Sub Tank self test procedure what fault code does it give you?
The "evil twin"- i don't think so.
It's all sweet. Everything works again, untill the float arm falls off again!!!!
The difference was draining the wires down to a zero value on the volt meter. It was a real "bullshit-no way!!!!" moment.
so sweet to get a win on these complicated cars. cheers:bigthumbup: