Printable View
G'day Bidja
Mate, tried all of that to no avail .... think I'm gunna ring Zerky in Lincoln tomorrow and book it in to get the pumps swapped. Don't think I've got the patience or the motivation to do it myself at this stage.
Thanks for your help cobber, and I will let you know the outcome.
Cheers
Try unblocking the EFR assy as Mark suggested _ taking out the blanking plate. Costly doing the pump path if it high MAF signal volts being the cause. All the best mate
Yep my old DI limped at 16psi. After doing the MAF housing mod no more limp, ever.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Thanks Bidja. Tried that already ... no different. I am going to try a real bodgy workaround, by bypassing the MAF with a spare filter assembly I have laying around. 32mm hose from a K&N filter from a VW buggy, into spare silicon intake hose near turbo.
Hopefully, give me enough usable power to be able to drive it the 700kms to Adelaide to a specialist tuner and have it sorted professionally on a dyno.
Worst case scenario is to limp the 30kms into Lincoln and get my mate to do the job with the injector pump. $500 cash sounded pretty good to me.
Hey there Mudski & Bidja
Well I've done some bloody bodgy shit in my 72 years, but as far as cars go, I think I have just won the gold medal of bodgyness!
I run the 11/4" fitting and tube from the air cleaner outlet (prior to the MAF) and down to the bend close to the turbo. Ran well with no limp but gutless.
Run 1'' line the same and BOOM!! Jackpot!! No limp, boost at 16psi goes like the clappers.
Hooked up the laptop, and checked MAF readings ... idle at 750rpm was 1.8v. 2000 rpm was 2.3v, 3000rpm was 3.6v and 4000rpm was 4.1v.
Reckon I might just leave it as it is! Be a bit embarrassing if I ever take it to a garage, but I'll leave that until it happens!
Cobbers, thanks for all of your help and advice. Really appreciated.
I can't remember who it was that was talking about "Magic Boxes", but I would like some more info if you could drop me a PM.
Thanks again!!
Those MAF voltages u achieved are good, pretty much same as my CRD and should/would not differ greatly to DI. My MAF voltages would sit nominally 0.2-0.3 above yours but I also run a Procharge stage 3 high flow turbo and 4" thru airbox / 3" to turbo & FMIC.
Magic Box was developed (originally for the ZD30 DI) and is produced by a chap in France @phdv61 (Phil), and he approached me back in DEC 20 to trial it with CRD along with another fellow in Aus. It is a very smart bit of kit for example it can adjust the MAF voltage seen by the ECU/ECM to avoid limp. Simply it adjusts/limits the MAP absolute pressure measured against the PWM% to control the VNT vane opening to provide max air flow into the cylinders at a given MAP (boost) and and can provide for much improved low down torque (provides for improved driveability). There are 16 adjustable MAP/PWM settings (16 couples) that limits MAP Abs B and the PWM settings to provide for adjustable control of the VNT vanes. This does away with the sudden opening of Tillix or Dawes opening when the target boost is achieved and provides for continual opening of the vanes as boost increases.
Have a read:
https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/vn...thread.413782/
Thanks Bidja
For an Old fart who did his apprenticeship on FC thru to HK Holden's, sort of a little confusing, although with a bit of reading and talking I will probably come to understand it a lot more. If I was a little younger, I would love to rebuild a shorty Landcruiser from about 1978 to 1980 vintage. Can understand them really well. HaHa.
Thanks a lot for your help.
It was really appreciated, and if ever you find your way onto the Eyre Peninsula in SA, I would love to catch up with you.
Cheers mate
Spriggsy
@Thevvy well not doing bad for an old fart mate, would guess I started my F&M apprenticeship just as you finished yours. Commenced mine on the tools in 1971 @ 17 yrs old.
The old grey motor was my first (FC wagon that grew into a RED mounted up).
MB a bit over the top initially but like most new gets easier _ Initially a bit daunting when you realize that there is a need to cut into the ECU/ECM harness. But comes together.
Thanks Bidja
Take care, stay safe and keep the little round black things on the bottom.
G'Day again Cobbers
The saga of the limp mode issues is FIXED!
After many phone calls, and receiving much advice to do everything from installing a new injector pump to changing the wiring loom I spoke to a contact in Melbourne who referred me to BAET (Border Automotive, Engineering and Tuning) in Lavington near Albury-Wodonga.
Long story short, rang and spoke to owner, Jamie Knobel, and sent him my ECU for a remap.
It arrived back today and I fitted it to the car. Instructions were to return air intake to standard (remove my bodgy fix bypassing the MAF) and adjust the dawes to set max boost at 20psi, and adjust needle valve so there was less than 2psi fluctuation.
That done, took the 'Trol for a drive 35kms into Pt Lincoln up & down hills and a few flat stretches.
WOW! just WOW!
The difference was chalk & cheese. Unbelievable! Goes like nothing I've driven (by way of 4x4's). good power & torque from the get go. EGT's rose reasonably quickly under full power acceleration until they hit 400c then hovered around there. Lift the right foot a little, boost drops back to 16 - 18psi and EGT's drop quickly down to 300 - 350.
Cruise on the flats at about 95 kms/hr resulted in 8 - 14 psi and EGT's around 250 -300.
Turned on cruise control, and hills that used to change me back to third ..... didn't! Marginal increase in boost pressure and very little change in EGT's.
It is a different car to drive, and is smooth and responsive around town.
I pulled the ECU out and posted it to Jamie on 30th July and it was back with me on Thursday 12th August. Pretty spectacular, given that it takes 6-10 days for a letter posted in Pt Lincoln, 35kms away to get to me!
And do you know the best part?
$525 including postage.
I can't recommend BAET enough!!
Stay safe and well everyone.
Spriggsy