2005 3.0 GU not starting NATS?

Hello Guys, I have a bit of a dilema here.
Car has been off the road for 2 months while i have tried to find the solution to it not starting.
Car was running fine, i was out late at night and noticed that the dash illumination lights had gone off?
Did not think anything of it until i tried to start the car the next day when it would not start.
Car cranks and seems completely normal but will not start.
I noticed that the NATS light on the dash was staying on solid when i tried to start the car and is on constantly when the ignition is on.
I have checked all of the fuses and they are all fine i have also checked all of the connections, relays are also fine and working as they should.
I pulled the intercooler off to have a look for a fuel shut off? unfortunately in the pump by the looks of things?
I noticed that there was what seemed to be burnt heater plug i pulled the plugs and there were actually 3 burnt out.
I have since replaced the plugs and they are all working fine.
Now living where i do i am 120 miles from the nearest Nissan dealer so i called them and managed to speak to the workshop foreman.
Now to say that this guy did not fill me with confidence is an understatement!
I do not need an alarm or immobiliser in fact i am fortunate that i can still leave the car unlocked and the keys in the ignition.
is ther a way to bypass the fuel shut off and has anyone done this procedure?

If you have a search through old posts there's a bit of info. Light staying on would indicate it's a nats issue. If it was a 4.2 I could help you more but..

I've read the nats is managed by the ecu in the 3.0 so you'll probably need to find the issue. Tried the spare key? I also read in one of the old posts that it's normally an issue with the sensor ring in the ignition that picks up the signal from the key.

Its best to have a scan gauge plugged into the OBDII port under the dash. This will tell you what the fault is. Cranking and not starting could me simply a block fuel filter, or air in the system. Or in my case, was a dead PCB on the injector pump making the entire pump terminally dead.
A scan tool is the only real way to find out on those electronic motors.