140k.
And apart from tightening the bearings as per this thread, nothing else had been touched or regreased, like , ever.
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Drizabone both sides .
I guess , most likely bit of water got through auto hubs ... So bead of silicone a trick as muddy suggested ?
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2019/10/28.jpg
Thank you @MudRunnerTD for the detailed explanation. Changed the tires on the GU today and took it for an alignment. The technician checked for all the bushings (all good) and for wheel play before setting up all the alignment gear, and actually found play on both sides. He ended up not setting up the gear and told me to adjust the bearings first and then go back for alignment. So here I am looking for knowledge from this great forum.
I don't have the lock nut tool but it seems easy to make one. Meanwhile, I'll give it a shot trying to turn the locking nut using a pair of "bent nose" circlip pliers. Lets see how that goes.
Cheers from Brazil!
I made do with a home made tool for the first couple of years I had our GU. Buying a proper tool given how cheap they are & easier to use than the one I made had me wishing I'd just bought one in the first place. My home made one consisted of a length of steel bar with two pegs welded to it. Suggest you find an ebay seller willing to post to you from here (for future use) unless you can replicate the 'socket' type tool yourself. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/193557575219
Thanks Cuppa!
I can definitely replicate it myself. Just wanting to tighten the bearings before Friday to get the alignment done and I won't probably have time to tackle the tool construction before that.
Another way to build the tool that crossed my mind is looking for a pipe with the appropriate diameter, cutting two "less then a half-moon" out of it leaving the two teeth for lock ring engagement and welding a nut on the other end. Then instead of driving it with the square half inch ratchet alone, I would drive it with the ratchet plus corresponding socket to the nut.
In a rush as you are BZ Mate a baby sized cold chizel and lightweight self torque tapping hammer always works. I really should buy the tool one of these days too [emoji736][emoji106]
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FWIW: (Bush Needs) Tap away lightly on your nuts when nearly home on the threads to compress dodgey washers, until your baby light hammer starts pinging/bouncing back.
1/8 turn tap backwards (disclaimer) has always worked for me around perfect Nm [emoji23]
The ‘ping’ feeling of steel/steel bounce back is no different a feeling of popping a tapered joint apart of steering links. Two equal weight hammers perfectly struck in time colliding with one joint magically works [emoji106][emoji106]
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^^^^^^^ What He Said ^^^^^^
I'd use a punch over a cold chisel, and you'll get a feel for how hard they need to be done up. (worst case you put the wheel back on and feel play you take it apart and do it again)
I also drive forward, never back-off, to the next locking screw tab/slot/hole.
Bearings can take a fuckton (metric) of preload before suffering damage, way more than you're going to put on it with hand tools.
Your idea of hacking up pipe is a fine one. BTDT too. try and get a radius on the pegs so's it's not squarepeg roundhole.
The actual locknut socket (41mm?) should be available from an engineering house, if you really feel the need for one.
If you do have the socket then the procedure is to tighten it until the bearing siezes (hub can't turn) then loosen it off completely, then tighten to whatever torque is specified in the manual, 20 ish foot pounds, IIRC.
^^^^^^What They Said [emoji23]
Baby Cold Chisels/Punches with a slight say 10 degree woof/bend in them are even betterer in the bush and merely take up 0.00000001m3 of spares box space [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
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