2005 zd30 into a 2003 patrol

HI Guys

Had a misadventure recently where a glow plug tip came off, damaged an injector and burnt a hole in #2 piston.

Thought I had won the lottery, when I was able to source a used motor for a couple of grand. Was even able to to take it for a drive before old mate pulled it out of his car in preparation to fitting a BMW m57.

Pulled my motor out, and fitted the new one. Started piece of cake and idled quietly and smoothly.

However ........ test drive revealed serious limp mode issues at anything from 8psi boost to 18psi boost.

If I control boost with the throttle it will run for a bit longer without limp.

Checked all fuel lines for leaks. Checked hand pump on filter seems OK.

Tested inter-cooler for leaks ... all ok.

Replaced MAF with genuine Nissan one (ouch) no different, but I now have a genuine Nissan spare MAF.

Was told today that the motor is a 09/2005 motor and the injector pump is incompatible for my ECU ( that is a 04/2005 as I fried my 2003 one .... long story).

The other thing is the donor vehicle was a manual, and mine is an auto, and I don't know if that would affect anything.

I have a new injector pump on my shonky motor that I could transplant, but I would prefer to keep that with the other motor if I can, as it has only done about 50,000kms and having scoped the cylinder it appears to be salvageable with just a new piston and rings.

Any help I can get from anyone would be greatly appreciated, as I ready to burn it!!

Has the EGR been blocked off on the Donor motor? Get a Dawes or Tilix valve and set the boost with that and see how it goes.

G'day Mudski

Yeah mate, that has all been done. New aircleaner, new fuel filter, new Nissan MAF (ouch), boost set to 8psi and still getting limp mode.

Set Dawes to 18psi, still get limp mode ....BUT .... boost stays at 16psi ..... S'got me buggered.

Looks like I will have to change injector pumps after all, bugger it!

Thanks Mudski

So you set Dawes at a Max Boost for 8psi and you still had limp??

Need to set Dawes at boost (say 15 psi max) under load / hauling at say 3000rpm up hill in 3rd gear. No good setting Dawes with say a compressor to get ball to lift off seat_made this comment as you say at

Quote:

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Set Dawes to 18psi, still get limp mode ....BUT .... boost stays at 16psi

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Try unwinding Dawes 1/2 turn from where you are getting max B 16psi..

Do you have a scan gauge_any error codes?

yeah mate ... did all that .... doesn't make any difference at all, except as I said, when set at 18psi still had 16psi in limp mode. Haven't got a scan gauge, but hooked up to a laptop ... no error codes, but MAF voltage at idle is 2.4v, at 2000rpm is 3.2v, at 3000rpm is 3.8v, and at 4000rpm is 4.8v.
Brand new MAF fitted for similar results, maybe a couple of 1/10's difference. Tried a $35 MAF from eBay ... much the same results except at 4000rpm where it was 4.4v.

09/2005 MAF has 5 pins, while mine, 2003 has only 4 pins...... almost straw clutching time and change injector pump over from my broken motor.

Frustrating!!

Your MAF voltage seems a bit high. Understand typical MAF voltage at idle for DI is between 1.6-2.0V. There is a resistor mod to MAF signal voltage to artificially reduce the MAF voltage seen by the ECU post blocking EGR to avoid limp_Have a search for this.

Understand that max MAF signal voltage for ZD30 is <4.5v.

Not sure what MAF sensor you are using but I would recommend using the original MAF (4 pin type) being compatible with your ECU.

I run a 08 CRD (5 pin MAF) and have been using an electronic device (Magic Box) to control the VNT vanes for MAF/MAP control. As part of this setup I had to ascertain what the MAF signal voltage was at idle.

For example my MAF signal voltage at idle is nom 2.1V cold and 1.9V warm and does not exceed 4.5V at 4500RPM.

If you are using the 5 pin MAF you can use the attached diagram I put together to measure the MAF SIGNAL voltage.

Others may have a better handle on the max MAF voltage threshold against RPM (limp avoidance).

@phdv61 may drop in and help out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Thevvy

G'day Mudski

Yeah mate, that has all been done. New aircleaner, new fuel filter, new Nissan MAF (ouch), boost set to 8psi and still getting limp mode.

Set Dawes to 18psi, still get limp mode ....BUT .... boost stays at 16psi ..... S'got me buggered.

Looks like I will have to change injector pumps after all, bugger it!

Thanks Mudski

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Remove the EGR block first then see what happens. The later motors are know for chucking a hissy fit when the EGR is blocked. How can you set the Dawes to 18psi if the boost stays at 16psi? Did you set the Dawes at 18psi form the old engine? If no and from the new engine and you still only see 16psi then you have a boost leak.

Hey Mudski

How ya goin?

Mate, I set the boost by taking the car for a drive and adjusting as necessary ... time consuming, but better in the long run, I reckon. The 16psi occurs when the motor goes into limp mode and boost is dropped.(The EGT drops to well below 100 C.) My old motor when it hit limp, would go down to about 6 or 8psi.

The more I think about it the more convinced I am that a pump transplant is gunna be my only way out.

But I aim to try everything else before I do that. Local bloke suggested a new ECU and wiring loom, but that scares the crap outa me.

Local Nissan dealer advised that the pump, ecu and loom were changed in about mid to late 2004 and the pump won't be compatible with my Trol.

Mate, thanks for the input. Appreciate it, and I'll let you know the outcome one way or the other.

Cheers cobber.

Remove the egr block first. It may or may not help but a lot easier to do.


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Some DIs are known to limp at 16psi hauling. Yeah I use to run 22psi (CRD) stock ECU without limp up until I started to haul up hill. I can run 30psi if I choose (CRD) remap.

Do yourself a favour and try reducing max boost _ back off Dawes boost controller in 1/4 - 1/2 turn increments and see how goes..