Turbo / Manifold squeal

Hi guys and girls,

I have a manual 2010 ZD30 CRD that has been having an ongoing issue. Initially, it was what I thought was a belt squeal, most noticeable when going uphill (under load presumably) in too high a gear. eg, in 4th going uphill when really I should be in 3rd.

I had the mechanic have a look, asking him to find the belt that was causing the issue but he came back and said it was something to do with the turbo but he wasn't sure.

After asking around, I was told by a few mates that they are almost certain it will be the exhaust manifold warping, so that was the next step. Took it to some people that machined it considering it was quite warped, new gaskets and also repaired a pipe around the back (EGR I think) that had a small crack.

I got the car back and didn't hear the squeal for a bit but started to hear a whirring noise, especially at higher speeds like ~100kmph. That has become more consistent at most speeds now, usually being very clear around 2600rpm - 3000rpm. I had to take it up north to a mate's farm as I was doing some pest control for him and really noticed it on the drive. I also found at times it felt like it was lacking some oomph at 100kmph +.

I took it to Turbo Tech for a listen and they said that it's likely the studs for the manifold being cracked and they suggested I take it back to the previous guys as the work will be under warranty.

I took it back to the crew that machined it and they took it back apart to check for me and found no issue. Put it back together and still the whir remains. They also said they had a look at the turbo with their limited experience and couldn't feel any play but admitted that isn't their field.

Any thoughts on what else it could be? I'm presuming something in the turbo but I'd rather it be a cheaper fix if possible! It's been a persistent pain for a month or two now!


On a completely unrelated note, if anyone needs and assistance with pest control in WA let me know, I'd be more than happy to assist and discuss all things Patrol at the same time!

Cheers
Oli

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Klikks

After asking around, I was told by a few mates that they are almost certain it will be the exhaust manifold warping, so that was the next step. Took it to some people that machined it considering it was quite warped, new gaskets and also repaired a pipe around the back (EGR I think) that had a small crack.

I got the car back and didn't hear the squeal for a bit but started to hear a whirring noise, especially at higher speeds like ~100kmph. That has become more consistent at most speeds now, usually being very clear around 2600rpm - 3000rpm.
Cheers
Oli

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Not sure how you will go for a further warranty claim_can only try.

IMO, if the exhaust manifold was badly warped, suggest a new replacement manifold be fitted and use inconel studs_if stock were reused at time of manifold install they most likely would have continued to stretch and elongated now to point of failure_ the first two studs are a common failure:

https://www.tillix.com.au/product/in...ud-singly-buy/

Would make sure that the EGR pipe was repaired and replaced successfully.

With manifold and dump pipe removed, suggest you block the EGR assy off with a blanking plate at both the exhaust manifold and at inlet manifold ends. Can do a resistor mod at back of MAF sensor plug wiring loom (in series with pink wire), if the EGR has not been turned off with ECU remap. These mods will prevent the 401 fault error code illuminating MIL.
The EGR pipe replace without blocking off will split again in time (maybe 150,000kms).

Have a read:
https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/cr.../#post-6890645

Do these 2 things first, especially if no excessive sideways movement is felt of turbo turbine shaft (causing the comp wheel rubbing against housing bore). Test by applying sideways back/fwd finger pressure to inlet end of turbine shaft.

i work in a nissan workshop and have seen many failure like this, also happened to my 2008 crd 3.0L
egr pipe can crack need the manifold, just replace the pipe with new gaskets
manifold can warp and snap studs, most common it the 2 in the front. best to fit a new manifold rather than machine them. also use new studs, nuts and gaskets.
ive seen some have a crack in the turbo as well so check that well.