Start battery voltage to rear, with out ACC on

Hi All,

Is there a live wire somewhere in the rear that comes off the Main starter battery???

I have 2 volt gauges setup in the rear of the patrol. 1x for Starter and 1x for the Aux battery under the bonnet.

I already have a cable running from the aux to a fuse box in the rear. This also connects to 1x of the volt gauges.


I don't really want to run another wire from the front to the rear just for the 2nd volt gauge.

Cheers,
S

so has someone put a double gauge in ? Not sure why you would run crank to back it makes no sense , in the front yes makes good sense to know what's going on .
As long as you've got a battery isolator .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GQtdauto

so has someone put a double gauge in ? Not sure why you would run crank to back it makes no sense , in the front yes makes good sense to know what's going on .
As long as you've got a battery isolator .

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I have an isolator and the solar regulator chargers the aux and the crank if the aux is full.

I normally hang out the back of the car when camping. It's handy to see the condition of both batteries with a quick glance

Quote:

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Originally Posted by schanmala

I have an isolator and the solar regulator chargers the aux and the crank if the aux is full.

I normally hang out the back of the car when camping. It's handy to see the condition of both batteries with a quick glance

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Ok I got you now , I think some have a wire direct from crank to back if there was an accessory plug fitted from factory or even aftermarket , it's a doable diy job just fiddly running the wire through .
If you have a trailer plug fitted it may have a power wire from the crank battery .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by schanmala

I don't really want to run another wire from the front to the rear just for the 2nd volt gauge.


S

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Only point that I could think of would be the rear interior light. It would have constant power from the crank battery running to it.

X2 for the dome light... identify the supply side of the lamp and if you are lucky might be easy to snake a wire from there to your voltmeter

Power for the dome light comes from the A pillar along roof then to light. Tipping it would be pretty tricky to try and route a wire from this down the D pillar and that would be with pulling back headlining and dicking around with it. Might work but think would be much easier to run a new one along chassis or body in the floor IMO.

There will be power to the courtesy switch on the rear doors, that would closest i think unless there is one to do with trailer wiring.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rossco

Power for the dome light comes from the A pillar along roof then to light. Tipping it would be pretty tricky to try and route a wire from this down the D pillar and that would be with pulling back headlining and dicking around with it. Might work but think would be much easier to run a new one along chassis or body in the floor IMO.

There will be power to the courtesy switch on the rear doors, that would closest i think unless there is one to do with trailer wiring.

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Pretty much agree... not sure how easy/hard it would be to get a small gauge wire from the dome light but is only option I can think of if OP wants no seperate feed.

If I can picture the lamp wiring cct correctly (so may be worng here) the Courtesy switch feed won't be ideal as it is downstream of the lamp so any time that any of the door switches are made the voltage will be zero (ish).
Same if the courtesy lamp is 'isolated'