Install/Upgrade to 4" Snorkel (recessed) and new Pod Air Box

Gathering up the bits and pieces for the 4" induction upgrade job. Now have:

the Body Saw for cutting thing up,

http://airtoolsandmore.com.au/tools/...ht8l17hl3dlkn5


4" Safari Ram Hd.

httphttps://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENU...12505756079://

K&N 9"Pod Filter:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-K-N-...h/221888546922

Air Box thru FB (similar to Fatz) $365 posted.

Only now waiting on my Fabwitz 4" SS snorkel (recessed) thru FB (just being welded up today). With solid ducting thru to air box with silicon joiners. And a replacement(exchange) Fabwitz 3" SS pipe from airbox to turbo (with 3 ports - MAF sensor, needle vac line & PCV return).

How is he determining the correct bends etc for the intake to the Turbo? my airbox was 4" in and Out so i stayed 4" all the way to the reducer ion the Turbo directly.

This airbox also is 4" in/out with the box spigot tubes being inline with each other, so the hole thru guard (4" x 90 deg bend clearance) will control position. There is a room constraint for CRD so a 4-3" reducer elbow at box outlet and the 3" SS pipe to turbo with silicon reducer to turbo inlet. The box being similar to Fatz design of which Corey (Fabwitz) has made pipes for and will make pipe a little longer so that I can trim length back to suit as needed. I will have to modify the fit up a bit myself. Should be OK.

Current setup Fabwitz 3" airbox (round) and piping with JT cooler.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Yeah i stuffed around and struggled for a couple ofhours before i popped the flare. It opened it right up and made the job 10 times easier. Pop the flare. Even if you break the clips they are cheap.

I used a set of yellow, green and red tin snips to cut the recess by hand.

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Darren, finally got all my bits to do snorkel and airbox install. Have finally had success in removing heat shield over turbo to replace gasket between turbo and dump pipe and wrap. Waiting on some wurth nuts.

Can easly cut 125mm hole in inner guard (next to airbox), but what did you do for the second panel skin hole to suit 4" elbow to snorkel straight duct?

Problem gone away - job done

Now with all bits on hand, have commenced the install of the 4" thru air box / 9" K&N pod filter (post #11) and the 4" fwd facing recessed SS snorkel (with 4" Safari Air Ram Hd).

There are many install methods and product types to do satisfy this install and they all have their limitations.

This thread details the method that I adopted as a DIY project and is provided for information purposes only for those interested. I will document as I progress.

The available space in my eng bay is limited having JT TMIC(606x300x76mm core). Have to shift my catch can (that was under induction pipe near air box to turbo) and a marine rotary switch that I use to select either or both aux batteries (vehicle or in tow) and need to buy a smaller one and relocate it to allow for relocation of the catch can.
At the same time, removing dump pipe as the gasket from turbo to dump is leaking, will wrap dump while out and now just waiting on Wurth nuts. Was a job to remove the heat shield, one bolt had ceased due to heat.

Just completed the cutting of 5" holes thru the inner guard and second skin above wheel arch.

OEM nominal holes size dia - inner guard 95mm / second skin above wheel arch 85mm.

Used a 128mm (5”) hole saw.

Inner guard - I used the hole saw to cut a disc out of 12mm plywood and centrally tek screw fixed this to the inner panel and was used to guide the hole saw and cut first panel 5” dia hole.
Note: Position the tek screws on a PCD so head clear the hole saw.

Second skin above wheel arch – used two of the above 12mm plywood discs, placed them up inside the hole saw. Then from some 30mm pine, made a 84mm dia disc/dowel (ie: clearance on existing 85mm dia hole in second skin above wheel arch). Slide this dowel piece with a central hole drilled, up inside hole saw to rest against the plywood discs and this was used to locate and guide the hole saw thru to cut existing 85mm hole out to 128mm (5”) dia.

Extreme care is needed doing this as this panel is not flat and can cause the hole saw to bite in aggressively and grab. Take it very cautiously, I cut out the last 1cm with an air operated body saw, snips or hack saw blade would work.

Note the disc / dowel thickness is to allow for cutter depth clearance so that the hole saw can do its job and protrude far enough to engage with the hole to be enlarged. You could use, only the appropriate length of 84mm dia pilot dowel piece, but I used the larger ply discs as well, to protect the hole saw from the discarded panel material and to help contain the discarded disc material in a confined space within hole saw.

Trial Fit 4" x 90 deg elbow - Found that 5” hole provided for easy fitting of the 4”x 90deg elbow and fitted well within the guard cavity. I don’t see any difficulty in the fitting the airbox or the solid SS 3” duct (thru inner guard cavity) to snorkel).

Couple of images are out of order.

Best feeling cutting ridiculous holes in your car isn't it...lol

Still getting over it and is just the beginning. Was waiting for the hole saw to hook up and ram the back of my hand down on to the vertical folded edge of the aux battery tray.

Just building up to this one, have decided to sleep on it first and check again... haha and more fun to be had.

Nice work mate. That hole saw jig worked well.