problem with the automatic gearbox

hello gentlemen, I have a souçis with my y 61 of late 2004 so a 3 l in automatic gearbox.

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and it is for his that I ask you your opinion it happens at the level of the automatic gearbox, I chatter when the 4th passes and vibrations / squeaks in 4 th in the period of floating between load and brake engine.

I do not have any information about his life, I bought it there are 2 years and 120 000 km with the vibration at the passage of 4 th and today has 160 000 kms and no idea about the last drain of BVA .

repairs being quite expensive, I wish to establish a precise diagnosis, I do not know if you know but nowadays repair a box of auto patrol is almost impossible, and the pieces are very rare so very expensive and very complicated to deniches.

thank you for all your advice :premier:

ok ,nobody knows .

Hi mate. I have the same vehicle and gearbox and have never had an issue so cant speak with any authority. looking at your sysmpoms though and talking with a friend, it may be simply a fluid issue. I suggest you do a transmission fluid flush and replace before looking into a major overhaul. This following quote from another transmission site;

Quote:

This usually indicates damaged fluid or a low fluid level, and can be fixed by changing the transmission fluid. If the fluid checks out, the problem may be the pump.

Below is a do it yourself way to flush transmission.

Quote:

Do-it-Yourself Automatic Transmission Flush
> Automatic Transmission Fluid
> Floor Jack & Jack Stands or Ramps
> Screwdriver, Ratchet and Socket Set
> Wheel Chock or Wooden Block
> Drain Pan
> Long Neck "skinny" Funnel
> Shop Rags or Paper Towels

DIY Transmission Flush Procedures

NO SPECIAL TOOLS OR EQUIPMENT NEEDED

Parts / Supplies / Tools Needed:

IMPORTANT - READ BEFORE FLUSHING YOUR TRANSMISSION

Before flushing your transmission pull the dipstick and look closely at the fluid. If the fluid is dark and has a burnt odor, atransmission flush is not recommended. The recommended service is a fluid and filter change.

1) Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature and then shut it off. Place a wheel chock (or wooden block) behind one of the rear tires.

Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack. Position jack stands securely under the vehicle. Slowly lower the floor jack until the entire weight of the vehicle rests on the jack stands. Push on one corner of the vehicle to check stability of jack stands - the vehicle should not move.

Or, drive the front of the vehicle onto ramps.

2) Locate the two transmission oil cooler lines. These lines run from the transmission or transaxle to the radiator. One line carries hot ATF from the transmission to the radiator (transmission oil cooler) and the other line carries the cooled fluid back to the transmission.

Disconnect the lower transmission oil cooler line where it enters the radiator. Position the drain pan to catch the fluid coming out of the line.

3) From underneath the hood, pull the transmission dipstick out of the dipstick/fill tube and insert a long skinny funnel into the fill tube.

Note: If you do not have a long skinny funnel that will fit into the dipstick tube you can use a short funnel with a small diameter hose or tube extension.

The reason for using a longer funnel or a short funnel with an extension hose is that it makes it easier to keep the funnel filled with fluid during the flush.

4) Now, remove the caps from 9 quarts of transmission fluid and position the containers in close proximity to the funnel that you've inserted into the dipstick tube because once you start the engine you will continuously poor all 9 quarts into the transmission one quart immediately after the other. As you are pouring the new fluid into the transmission, the old fluid is being pumped out of the transmission into the drain bucket.

5) Start the engine and pour all 9 quarts of fluid into the transmission through the funnel trying not to allow the funnel to run dry before beginning to add the next quart. When all 9 quarts have been added, shut the engine off.

6) Reconnect the transmission oil cooler line. Now, back up on top, remove the funnel from the dipstick/fill tube and insert the dipstick. Be sure the dipstick is pushed all the way down into the tube.

7) Now start the engine while the vehicle is still raised and check for leaks. If no leaks are present, shut the engine off and then lower the vehicle.

8) With the vehicle sitting on level ground, start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature. Once warm, depress the brake pedal and move the shifter through all gears (pausing for a couple of seconds between each shift) before returning the shifter to the Park "P" position.

9) Check fluid level. With the engine still on and at idle, pull the transmission dipstick and check the fluid level. If it shows full, (or in the full range), wipe the dipstick clean then reinsert it back into the tube. Check fluid level a second time to confirm the reading. If it shows full a second time, you are done. If the fluid level is low, add no more than 1/3 quart of fluid - then recheck. Repeat this process, adding less fluid each time, until the dipstick reads full, or in the full range. Do NOT overfill.

Note: Most automatic transmissions do not have a drain plug. So, if you accidently overfill the transmission with fluid, remove one of the oil cooler lines where it enters the radiator to allow some fluid to drain out. Or, if you have a small hand pump and a long small diameter hose you can pump fluid out of the transmission through the dipstick/fill tube.

This is offered as a suggestion. I have had no issues with my transmission. i have done a flush once using the method above. Be aware that if there is internal damage to the gearbox, flushing may cause the gearbox to get worse. This does not mean the flushing has caused the fail, it just means that the gearbox was on the way out and the flushing fluid change has made the fault show more.
Hope this helps.

hello and thank you for your response, other people have also recommended to do a drain.
I did it by sucking with a pump through the well of gauge and using the NISSAN ATF in 2 times and removing 2 times 3.5 l of ATF but nothing changes.

the ATF I drained was clean and with no special smell.

I want to continue to do other drain and also change the filter.

I wonder if the torque converter and the valve body will not be trainee to become hos service.

you know what Australian site I can find parts like the torque converter at reasonable price?

thank you.