2006 TD4TI glow plug timer / module problem?

So I bought a factory 2006 TD42 GU patrol a month ago and have had problems since..

Car started making a weird noise from the engine after about a week of driving it.. (rattly)

The dash started playing up.. glow plug light and check engine light would dim in and out instead of having a solid light when I’d flick the key and go out after about 5secs or so. Now the glow plug light glows in and out and never goes out and when I start the engine it sounds very rattly. Also there was a loud ticking noise coming from the wire connected to the injector pump so I suspected it needed a new wire or something. Anyway with that all going on I started the car and the lights would stay dimming in and out and the rev gauge wasn’t working and the car sounded like ass ( very rattly)

So got a auto elec around.. nothing. Took it to a mechanic and they timed it and gave it a service.. no fix, still screwed. Took it back and got the injection pump replaced and modified to a mechanical pump (no more wire) and got new injectors. Now the ticking noise came from the relay which I think is meant to happen but it never turns off. When I went to start the car the check and glow light would still dim in and out. Anyway started the car (thought it sounded better, it didn’t) drove it back to my place and on the drive it would go from operating properly (lights went out, car sounded right) back to no rev gauge and the glow and check engine light dimming in and out never Turing off (car sounded like shit when this happened) (while driving it was going from good to bad to good to bad)

Got the glow plug relay replaced today and the car still wouldn’t start.. I’m no expert or anything so can’t exactly explain what’s going on with the glow plugs and timer but the mechanic said it’s most likely the glow plug timer causing the issue, so they added a button to press to activate the plugs manually before starting the car.. which I’ve been told has got the car running again (not sure if the rattling is gone haven’t got it back yet) but the dash is still having the same issue which an auto elec has told the mechanic that it’s PROBABLY all running through the glow plug timer (which cost $1500 new apparently) so for now I got the button until I find a 2nd hand one for cheaper.

(I’m sure I’ve got a lot of this backwards and missed a few things)

Now.. suspecting the rattlings gone and the dash is the only issue, I’m curious if the dash does run through that module? and if putting the button in should have fixed the dash also? Or if there’s a better way to add the button temporarily whilst also having the rev gauge, check engine and glow light operate correctly? Or do I just need to fork out the money and pray it fixes my issue?
(Not sure what they’ve done to add the button in, will ask when I pick her up this arv and update)

Also anyone have an idea why the car sounds like ass when the dash does play up? (Will update if the noise has been fixed by what should now be working flow plugs)

many of issues that you mention have found to be caused by bad earths . check all earth connections ( pull them off , clean and re attach ) under the drivers side dash and also the battery ( battery earth cable at battery body and engine an glow plug system ) . whilst your there it 'd be a good idea to do the positives at the altenator and starter .

I haven’t checked for myself but the mechanic and auto elec both thought it was a bad earth but after checking both came to the same conclusion that it must be the timer? I’ll have a look at them and give them a clean for myself once I pick it up and will also check the positives. Cheers mate, will update once I’ve had a geez.

That's a lot going on there mate. Id have suggested extra grounds as well... But that one seems to be covered.

Just a quick one though...
Went from injection pump to a mechanical?

Hey mate, yeah I got the factory injection pump rebuilt from a electronic injection pump to a mechanical injection pump. Basically from what I know it’s an 11mm, boost compensated and mechanical by removing the one wire (dunno how it’s converted to mechanical or what it changes apart from not having any electronic issues with it.

So update..

Car starts fine with the button pressed for 5 secs then cranking it. But the rattly sound is still there slightly.. glow light and check engine is still there but solidly lit and rev gauge don’t work.

After taking it for a drive the lights went out and gauge started working again after about 5-10mins and when that was all working properly the rattly sound was gone.. but it would cut in and out.. it seems to me like an electrical issue but I don’t know where to start and well apparently neither did the auto elec or mechanic. It’s as if (lets say one of the grounds) is loose or dirty or something (or relay, another wire or something) and sometimes it connects and works properly and other times it doesn’t.. because I think it cuts out when I hit like a big bump.. then the gauge stops working again and the car sounds like shit.

I haven’t got around to checking the grounds or positives will have to do that this arv when I have some time, but just hoping someone has had a issue similar where the gauge stopped working and check engine light stayed lit and the car sounded like shit (rattle from inside engine) or any of the above.. Could this be related to the glow plug timer? Or just a bad connection somewhere? (Possibly at the timer?)

Bit lost on where to start if the earths are clean as I’ve been told they are.. not sure what is dropping out causing it to rattle like it is either.. since now the pump is mechanical..?

Definitely sounds like loose connection or broken insulation causing something to ground .

As for the pump.
All TD pumps are mechanical.
The only vital electricals to it are the NAS wire ( later models ) and the wire to #1 injector ( also later models maybe only ?).
So don't know what conversion to mechanic was done to yours and why .
Someone correct me here if wrong.

So is it rattly all the time ?
Or only when cold ish ! . its not staying in the cold start warm up mode ? IE advanced timing for warm up .