Hi everyone This is the first time I write in this forum.I just installed a new clutch set for my y60 1995, we bled the system well , clutch engagement is smooth but the clutch pedal is too low .
Please help me on that
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Hi everyone This is the first time I write in this forum.I just installed a new clutch set for my y60 1995, we bled the system well , clutch engagement is smooth but the clutch pedal is too low .
Please help me on that
G’day Kamal Mate!
Worth trying first maybe a nuffy Hills Home ‘reverse bleed’ of clutch & brakes if messy possible?
Clutch slave wise, try positioning a 2L Peters Ice Cream tub below its firewall master cylinder (cap off) and ‘Tom Thumb’ type pump from the bottom back up top off the bleed nipple below [emoji106][emoji106]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/12/55.jpg
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Low as in the pedal it physically sitting low? Or is engaging low? I'e close to the floor.? If its the later, thats how its supposed to be and will eventually work its way back to the usual spot. If its the former. You can adjust the pedal height from under the dash.
Thanks, about the pedal setting already done then I made 20 km travel after that clutch pedal got worse as I could not engaged the reverse gear . What is the problem?
It sounds like a lot of air in the system. Or maybe the clutch master cylinder has been damaged by going past its normal range. Another possibility is the fork has been installed wrongly. Check to see there isn't a leak when the pedal is pressed.
What do U mean:Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamal
??Quote:
I made 20 km travel after that clutch pedal got worse
Did you increase the effective length of rear push rod at master cylinder by rotating shaft or clevis yoke at pedal? How many turns and suggest U keep a count from start of adjustment (# of turns).
Ensure you have clearance between slave cyl rod tip and fork/release lever.
I assume no clearance means that throw/thrust bearing is firmly resting against pressure plate fingers "not good IMO"_ some clearance needed with foot off clutch pedal(>2mm for slave push rod to fork mating point).
Any one provide comment on fork clearance?
Have read that pedal clevis pin center distance is 130mm from face of servo unit (removed)_had my veh since new so guess still set to factory spec).
My story_16 months ago, replaced worn OEM Clutch/DMF (170,000kms) with a 4 Terrain Ultimate ER2 clutch/SMF and has been a pain with the clutch taking up (engaging) with pedal @ 20-50mm off the floor (still after 12 months driving).
As there is no clutch slave cyl rod adjustment (rod thread/locknut) to reduce the slave cyl rod tip to clutch fork free travel clearance, I went ahead (2 months ago) and did adjustment to the clutch master cyl "rear rod" effective length to pedal. Increased rod effective length by rotating clevis yoke 1.75 turns gave me approx 1/3rd pedal height / full engagement)_good. For the last couple of week, has been difficult to engage 1st and reverse gear at idle (input shaft must be rotating with clutch not fully disengaging), have now increased effective length of rod (rotating clevis a total of 3 turns). Seem OK but not 100% confident yet. No leaks and clutch fitted correctly (assumed) by local trusted mechanic.
Will see how goes and next will re-check for air in lines.
Interested to see how you go.
There are 2 adjustments, one behind the master cylinder and one at the pedal.
You shouldn't have to use either though as the hydraulic clutch is self adjusting.
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Yes the two rods have adjustment means (Rear and Front) of servo unit _ OEM spec measurement to be maintained.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
The self adjusting clutch feature is, as I read from my trusty Haynes Repair Manual (1998-2011_GU series), is achieved by the slave cylinder piston being spring loaded towards the fork/release lever, which keeps the push rod in constant contact with the release lever allowing the slave cyl a self adjusting capability that provides same pedal operation as clutch plate wears.
Not sure, maybe due excessive rod/release lever clearance, provides a poor clutch self adjusting capability (ie: push rod/release lever not having constant contact) and is causing inadequate clutch disengagement to achieve satisfactory gear selection. Maybe the same issue exists for @Kamal with Y60 1995 as for my 08GU impacting on satisfactory gear change (when stationary with eng @ idle), so have posted here and will see what eventuates.
With my GU IV new clutch install (4 Terrain Ultimate ER2), having OEM servo unit rod spec adjustment, noted that there was approx 10mm of slave push rod free axial end movement, before coming to rest up against piston held by the applied spring force. Rod is supposed to be in contact with release lever/fork always.
Maybe the slave cyl requires a longer push rod to achieve the required rod constant contact with release lever to ensure adequate clutch disengagement when pedal is pushed to floor?
Anyone had experience or have knowledge of suitable various slave rod lengths that could be tried?
Any knowledge of what is the spring pre-load position for the slave push rod/release lever being in contact when clutch pedal is released?
No idea as usual unfortunately sorry John Mate!
Air wise on fluid compression, have nuffy found a sneaky stray finger or two extra increasing girth seal helps McGuppy pressure.....seems also to help push troublesome burp bubbles back up top?
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There are at least two rod lengths I can confirm. When I replace the slave cylinder on mine I still had some issues, pulled the rod out of the new and old cylinders and the new one was at least an inch shorter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Swapped them out and all good.
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