need new clutch

hi, recently my missus is stalling the gu often. i never have this problem lol
but its got 190,000km and i have no history on if the clutch has ever been done.
i thought i might look into clutches but i see dual mass and single mass. dont know what one i have. i know dual mass cant be machined and will need replacing where as single mass can be machined.
any info on what flywheel a 2008 crd gu wagon would have?

is there a way to tell what flywheel i have by looking at the vehicle in some way?

there is possibility that clutch is ok and i need to book some driving lessons for the missus but im thinking clutch isnt too expensive as i can buy cheap from where a work.

thanks

Out of the box the CRD uses a DMF. They are good, they work well, but also can fail, and supposedly can't be machined. Opting for a SMF is cheaper and can be machined. But you will notice some more drivetrain noise and vibration. But this will soon be forgotten after a few k's.
as for brands. Safari do a Tuff Clutch and Clutch Industries do a 4Terrian series. Both are heavy duty and both are good. I would go with either one of those if it were me. I went for the 4Terrain, only because I could get these cheap through my business at the time.

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but if the clutch was worn it should be making it harder to stall, not easier? As in the more worn it is the more its likely to slip?

Unless there's a failure in the mechanism holding it open.. ie.. the master or slave cylinder (Assuming it's hydraulic). I also reckon if it doesn't stall when you drive it mate theres probably nothing wrong with the clutch.

Re: the engine stalling, the good lady may need to drive it a bit more like she means it. The stock CRD has significant throttle lag and if you go too easy on pedal/revs it will stall. It prefers a bit of pedal when driving off or when low down under high load situation. You need to drive them. Mine 08 CRD manual wagon similar k's.

Can make them more responsive to ease the pain.

4terrain would be my choice to, yeah i see what your saying if clutch was wearing it should slip and engine shouldnt stall.
yes they do need a bit of right boot to get em going, ill try bleed the clutch fluid and check of leaks while im there.
as i first said i dont seem to have an issue.
thought id raise the question about dual mass flywheels and from what i hear id like to stick with a dmf

I've done a couple clutches in gu's, both were DMF, converted one to a SMF left one DMF, what you notice when you use SMF is it will shudder at low revs in gears a lot more. have had ppl complain about it other are fine with it, personally I wouldn't change it unless it really needs it. try starting the engine and holding the clutch down in gear for awhile, if it starts grabbing you have a problem, my wife can't drive properly either and refuses to listen when I explain what why and how to avoid it.... the solution for me is to do the driving myself

Quote:

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Originally Posted by garett

I've done a couple clutches in gu's, both were DMF, converted one to a SMF left one DMF, what you notice when you use SMF is it will shudder at low revs in gears a lot more. have had ppl complain about it other are fine with it, personally I wouldn't change it unless it really needs it. try starting the engine and holding the clutch down in gear for awhile, if it starts grabbing you have a problem, my wife can't drive properly either and refuses to listen when I explain what why and how to avoid it.... the solution for me is to do the driving myself

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The issue if you leave the DMF in is that you cannot machine them. Not machining the flywheel mean you have zero warranty on the clutch. Plus if there is heat spots on the flywheel the clutch will prematurely wear.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mudski

The issue if you leave the DMF in is that you cannot machine them. Not machining the flywheel mean you have zero warranty on the clutch. Plus if there is heat spots on the flywheel the clutch will prematurely wear.

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never have I reused a DMF, replaced with like. one person let the clutch slip so much it required replacing just from the heat cracking in the face.

good info there, thanks for that.
ill try that test garett. also ill bleed the clutch fuild and check the master and slave cylinders for any signs of leaks.