GU Patrol cranking but not starting

Good evening Patrollers,

Just thought I would share my recent experiences with my 2011 series 7 GU CRD patrol - and the crap experience from the local Nissan Dealer.

I bought her only in december last year, and it was a little slow to start, she would crank and take a little while and then start - over the next month this got a little worse, then we got the hesitations under load from about 2200rpm to 2500rpm, then we progressed to hot start issues, and finally on the weekend she stopped all together.

So I had a friend run a diagnostic and it came back fuel rail pressure sensor - rang nissan dealer, got the total run around, from nah mate we dont have them, to the service manager telling me they do replace them, but parts manager saying he cant get the part - but that is covered in other threads. Up shot they wanted to sell me a complete rail for $1500.

So because the diagnostic said sensor, we replaced the sensor, but still had the problems. Today, the relief valve turned up in the post, but before fitting it we checked the injector pulse with a test light - nothing. We started to 2nd guess and think it was electrical/relay issue. Changed the relief valve, and bang, she fired up straight away, and no more hesitation - woo hoo fixed. so the lessons Ive learnt the last 2 weeks.

1) Avoid nissan dealers!!
2) If you are searching for fuel rail parts - get the fuel rail part number off the fuel rail, (both the nissan part number and the bosch part number) and use that to help you google search parts - much more reassuring when the part you order says it fits fuel rail such and such.
3) don't under estimate the importance of the relief valve - our experience, and a quick google search shows that the with low fuel rail pressure, the ecu wont fire up the injectors - which makes you look in the wrong direction - at least until you make the connection with the low fuel rail pressure.
4) there are discussions threads floating around that is mistaking the banjo bolt on the side of the fuel rail as a relief valve when it is actually the fuel return. The relief valve is at the end of the rail.

Thanks,

Good result mate. Nissan Dealers can be useless. If you find that other thread you mention at the end add a comment there mate.

I think I've mentioned this valve in the past around here a few times & how to test for it's fault.
They're available sub $100, genuine Bosch units. When my one went, I think it cost me around $120... They seem to have gone down in price.

example:
​https://www.ebay.com.au/i/1840791770...RoCRqQQAvD_BwE

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hodge

I think I've mentioned this valve in the past around here a few times & how to test for it's fault.
They're available sub $100, genuine Bosch units. When my one went, I think it cost me around $120... They seem to have gone down in price.

example:
​https://www.ebay.com.au/i/1840791770...RoCRqQQAvD_BwE

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Just for clarification and longevity for future years, as Ebay listings change and are removed, these are the details of the item Hodge is referring to:

Code:

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GENUINE BOSCH FUEL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE SENSOR 1110010018 PATROL ZD30 CRD

BOSCH Fuel Pressure Relief / Limiting Valve Sensor

Genuine Bosch

For common rail diesel

Part number*1 110 010 015 - 1 110 010 018 Compatible

Fits fuel rail 0 445 214 112 / 17520-MA71A

This sensor, when faulty, is often the cause of hard starts, poor fuel economy, smokiness and lag. Further, a wrong diagnosis can lead to unnecessary and costly ECU, fuel rail or fuel pump repairs / replacement.

It is this sensor which is often overlooked, and unable to be bought from your vehicle manufacturer directly!

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Thanks Cremulator.

I forgot to mention, that Patrolapart and a lot of other non ebay stores now have them too.

https://patrolapart.com.au/product/n...e-relief-valve

Years ago when my one let go, they were not so common. Ebay was the only choice...
Well the other choice was a full rail unit from stealership parts store. Which by the way, I almost fell for... lol

i work in a nissan dealer workshop and its a rookie mistake to replace a sensor just based on a fault code, sometime the sensor is reading the correct this and something else is at fault.
in your case the sensor was ready low pressure but the sensor worked the reason for low pressure was cause but the faulting fuel rail valve. a lot of "mechanics"scan for codes and replace sensors
im not saying never to trust the code you get but just cause you get a sensor code doesn't mean that sensor is bad and needs replacing.