My "new" rig

Hi all,

I used to have a 2010 GU ST, which was pretty stock and served alright. I sold it a few years ago, which was a big mistake.
I'm now finally back in another GU. This time it's a 2012 Series 8 with just over 183,000 on the clock.
It's been tuned with what is possibly an aftermarket turbo, and an intercooler, but I haven't looked into it too much.
It goes extremely well, but has so much intake noise through the snorkel. I'm not sure if that's normal.
I don't have too many photos just yet, but some are attached below.

It's got an ARB Bullbar, Warn XP 9.5XP winch, 2" lift with Bilstein suspension (I haven't checked out this much yet), Raslarr rear bar, 285/75/R16 tyres on steelies and Hankook DynaPro MTs, which are pretty aggressive tyres.

Changes I've made in the few weeks I've had it:
- Removed the Titan drawers and cargo barrier. I don't need them and I have other plans for the rear
- Disconnected Bushranger light bar at the front, to be removed later today. The wire on the light is broken, because of poor fitment by the previous owner
- Removed the odd rubber flares off all the wheel arches
- Removed the poorly mounted (and not working) UHF.
- Replace the main starter battery to try to diagnose why it takes so long to turn over

Plans on the cards so far:
- Replace the dodgy in cab switches for random lights that I can't seem to find any function for, or are poorly mounted, and do proper switches and mounts for everything
- Run everything through an ARB Linx system
- Remove the lightbar and mount my Stedi Type X Spotlights
- Remove the Kings awning and replace it with my two Darche awnings
- Get a second set of tyres (ATs) for general use, and save the muddies for when they are needed
- Check the existing tune on the car, as it's boosting to up to 30 PSI and very occasionally over 550 C EGTs
- Replace the winch with a Runva 12,000 LB winch
- Consider removing the roof rack and just put my existing roof bars up there from my other Patrol
- Replace the factory headlights with Micks HID retrofits
- Add a Stedi lightbar
- Add a roof console
- Make some adjustments to the accelerator and clutch, as they are extremely sensitive)
- Fix the super spongy brakes
- Add a GME UHF and replace the aerial at the front with something decent

I've probably got more on that list, but as everyone knows, it's a never-ending project, so more will be added to the list as time and money permits.

A recent mechanical service has indicated the car is generally in good health, but they raised some potentially major issues
- The pillar boost gauge is not accurate. It's not reading as high as it should.... but it still reaches nearly 30 PSI boost
- The aftermarket turbo is probably not tuned right to be outputting that much boost for the car

There is so much intake noise, that when the car is on the highway, you have to shout to other passengers in the car.

I am trying to find a dyno place that will help re-tune the car to a safe level before something bad happens.

I will see what happens when I get some work done on it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jordo

A recent mechanical service has indicated the car is generally in good health, but they raised some potentially major issues
- The pillar boost gauge is not accurate. It's not reading as high as it should.... but it still reaches nearly 30 PSI boost
- The aftermarket turbo is probably not tuned right to be outputting that much boost for the car

There is so much intake noise, that when the car is on the highway, you have to shout to other passengers in the car.

I am trying to find a dyno place that will help re-tune the car to a safe level before something bad happens.

I will see what happens when I get some work done on it.

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take it to see Brett at 4WD Obsession in Melton mate. he has a 4 wheel dyno and knows the Patrol well. He will steer you right.

Thanks for the tip, MudRunner. That will be great.
I will look at getting it booked in.

Hi all,

I had the car at 4X4 Obsession today, which came out well, thanks to MudRunner.
The car has been tuned in the past, very poorly, and was sitting at nearly 30 PSI boost with aftermarket turbo making 130 HP on the dyno
They did an ECU remap and it's now running 129 HP and 350 NM on the dyno at 20 PSI boost.
They fixed my boost gauge too, which is great.

Two isseus that have changed since that, which I have to contact them about
- The car randomly does something similar to a kangaroo hopping at various speeds. Today, I've noticed it 50 KM/H, 80 KM/H and 100 KM/H, It's very aggressive, and I don't know why it's doing it.
- The Check Engine light has been on for a while now. I picked it up from the shop, drove it to my brother's in St Albans, and it was alright, but the light has been on since starting it and driving it home to Croydon.
- I'm assuming that as a result of the engine light, I can't set cruise control now.

I will contact them in the morning and talk through that, but otherwise, it's running well, and happier to have safer boost levels, and it's gone from 19 L/100 down to about 15 L/100 now too, which is great.

The engine light is caused by a U1000 code for Invalid/Missing Data, seemingly as a direct result of the tune.
I will take it back to the place and get it seen it, and hopefully then everything should be working.

Just installed the Scangauge II and the iDrive.
The iDrive makes a massive difference for a car that has been incredibly sensitive on the throttle and therefore difficult to drive in city conditions.
The Scangauge II has shown that the Boost gauge in the pillar is massively inaccurate, by well over 50% at times, but I've only driven a few minutes with it so far.
I look forward to seeing how they go long term, with more experience driving with them in the future.
I just have to get the fault code fixed, which will happen on Tuesday, and then the next stages begin.

I had the U1000 code fixed by 4x4 Obsession. They had to redo the ECU tune with a very specific firmware that is relatively, apparently, but they did it, and it's been running well for a few months.

A wheel came off a few days before Christmas, and has now been fixed through insurance. Approx $5,500 worth of damage.

I don't know if was malicious damage or just an unfortunate event. I had driven an hour at mostly highway speeds to visit a relative, without issue. The car sat there for four hours. I went to drive home, but only got about 3 kms up the road, before the rear left wheel came off. Only recovered two wheel nuts, which was odd. Got it back a few weeks ago, in early Feb.

Took it for a drive today and it sounds like a jackhammer when driving. The sound only happens when moving, not when at lights, etc. It seems to be a driveshaft noise, I would guess, but I have no idea yet. I need to get that looked at at some stage.

Once I get it back, I will probably sell it, because I'm not using it. I work 5 - 6 days a week and study part time at uni. I've got about $7k worth of accessories that I will sell too. All brand new in boxes.
If you're interested in anything below, or the car, let me know.

- GME XRS-370 with 2.1 dB and 6.6 dB antenna
- Thinkware U1000 dual dash cam (Front 4K and rear 1440p with parking radar)
- Kenwood DNX9190DABS with optional reverse camera
- Micks HID retrofit HID lights with 50w bulbs. Entirely black
- Stedi LED foglights for the ARB Deluxe bullbar
- Runva 13,000 lb winch with synthetic rope
- ARB Twin compressor with hose and digital gauge
- Stedi 52" dual row lightbar with loom and mounting hardware

Car has 185,000 kms approx on it.
I've only done about 1500 kms in it since I bought it in April last year
It has 5 x brand BFG KO2s on it, and a 6th rim wiht an old KM2 tyre old it that needs replacing
Car has 130 hp at the wheels with 20 lb boost
2 inch suspenion lift
285/70R17 tyres on Nissan 17 inch alloy wheels
Raslarr rear bar with twin jerry can holder and tyre carrier
ARB bullbar with Stedi Type X Pro spotlights
Rhino full size Tradie rack
Second key, that is not yet cut or coded
2.5m Kings awning
3rd row seats

Once the mechanical gremlins are sorted, does anyone have a suggested price point for what I would sell it for?

Thanks for your help and advice.

The joys of older trucks right, always an adventure.

OK as for selling it, judging by the recent trend on carsales, seller seem to factor in a covid tax on SuVs and 4x4s, in fact some clowns are asking more for a three year old DMAX than a new one:icon_bonk:

So they look at what redbook values it, and then they double the asking price. Its nuts.

Best to understand what you need to get for it, and add say 10 to 15 percent to that mark to give bargaining negotiation room, also have a look at what similar vintage, mileage and modded versions of yours have sold for...you can nit see this in carsales until you list your rig, and that plots out what brackets are selling and generally how fast they are selling at certain prices, so then you can adjust your price accordingly.