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Hi All,
I've recently been told by mates that my 3L TD Di is making a lot of smoke when I put my foot down. Mostly when revs are low and I'm trying to pass another vehicle. I've also noticed that my EGT temps are rising above 550C (hitting 1050F as i bought US based gauges). So either i figure i'm either not getting enough boost (i've set the Dawes personally, and i'm getting about 8PSI under 2000 rpm) or the injectors are dirty/malfunctioning.
Any ideas?
Thanks
What colour is the smoke ? Has your fuel economy changed ? original intercooler / if it is its probably leaking ? catch can fitted / if not check intake system pipework and clean MAF and intake manifold ? whats your boost set for max ? Any ideas - some , but need more info . cheers .
Black smoke is un-burnt fuel.
Too much fuel or Not Enough Boost. Turn the Boost up mate to 11 or 12 and see if it sorts itself out ;) 8psi is very low and below factory settings. peak power is made above 2000 so 8psi at 2000 will be bogging down the motor and fuelling her up. Nothing good about that. Turn the boost up.
Larger PWR intercooler with thermo fan installed, catch can installed although not catching as much oil as I'd like so yes, there is a small amount of oil going through intake manifold, MAF is clean (cleaned twice just to be sure a couple weeks ago), turbo set to 16psi max through Dawes. My mate said the smoke was black. I'm not sure in fuel consumption right now, but I'll be doing a big camping trip next weekend and will get a good idea where I stand on that now.Quote:
Originally Posted by boots
Hmmm... Between 2000-3000rpm I'm gettin anywhere from 10-15psi, depending on accelerationQuote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
I'm also running a MUCH larger air box with a K&N air filter. Could that be affecting things?
Try 13 - 18 psi 2000 - 3000 rpm first , see how it goes . have read on the forum mixed reports on the servicable air filters for the 3.0L , causing grief with mafs - hence overfuelling . Maybe also try running a standard paper air filter to try rule it out . Q - what oil you using ? exhaust system size ?
Boosted up my boost and she's running better and quicker now, but haven't had a chance to get anyone to look for exhaust smoke.Quote:
Originally Posted by boots
Oil is Penrite Semi Synthetic 15W40, first time using it, not overly impressed, although has stayed cleaner longer. Want to try Delo400.
Exhaust is 2 3/4 from turbo back with hi flow cat and muffler from Beaudesert exhaust.
Oh, and MAF is always clean, the pipe (hose) from air box to the point where the Crank Case Breather hose connects is always clean.
I am however going to change to Nissan air filter this weekend for a 1200km trip with the boys. Will get a very good idea what's going on after that.
If diesel oil stays cleaner longer its not working the way it should. Diesel oils have detergent additives in them to keep your motor clean as diesels "soot" up a lot more than petrols.
Righto, will dump the oil before my trip this weekend. Thanks for the info
Okay, running Delo 400 now. Mates say smoke looks normal and only when I put my foot down.
New problems however. On our drive, any speed above 110kph was hard on the engine. Boost was around 4-6psi and EGT was around 480-550C, well over 550 if climbing hills. I'll admit it was very windy and I had a spacecase on the roof. And since adding Dawes Valve, I've notice if I accelerate hard, EGT climbs FAST and the ECU seems to cut off fuel at about 3600rpm. This was all happening before oil change as well.
Boost pressure still too low
Dawes valve screwed all the way in. If I'm sitting under 100km/h, cruising, rpms around 2600, boost is pretty stable around 14-15psi. Do I need to get a Needle Valve?Quote:
Originally Posted by boots
Cheers
You might want to send off a sample of oil for analysis at a lab to check for blowby gases, water and wear metal in your oil.
The above may be true to an extent, but if you block your EGR your oil will as clean as a petrol.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Wouldn't I see these things when I do my oil changes (except gases)?Quote:
Originally Posted by squash
Bad-Trol: 2004 GU3 ST-L. 2" OME lift and nitrocharger shocks with Airbag Man rear airbags and In-Cab gauge and controls, 33" Mickey Thompson MTZ's, AVM manual locking hubs, PWR radiator, Cross Country 4x4 intercooler with PWR core and thermo fan, PatrolDocta Stainless Steel airbox, Beaudesert 2 3/4" full Stainless Steel Exhuast, Dawes Valve, Catch Can, EGR block, Stepmotor Boost and EGT gauges, Dual Battieries, RedArc isolator, 47l ARB fridge on Outback Drawers with fridge slide, Rigid Industries 40" LED light bar(front) and twin diffused Dually's (rear) on Rhino Pioneer Tray roof rack, Lightforce XGT pencil spotties, TJM underbody radiator protection, GME 3440 handset, ARB compressor, plus more to come ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad-Trol
Sorry mate these two statements seem to contradict each other? At 100kph your pumping 14psi and at 110kph your pumping 4 to 6psi?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad-Trol
Diesel oil should turn black its what its designed to do. I have 2 patrols without egr and both their oils still turn black. All the diesel machinery I work on (being a diesel fitter) dont have egr and oil goes black if we have oil that stays clean like a petrol we have major dramas somewhere else (ie fuel system) I am yet to see a diesel engine where the oil stays clean like a "petrol" . As I stated if it stays cleaner longer its not performing to standard within reason yes. If your getting to 5000k and its still clean then i would be changing your oil or having a look elsewhere to see why its staying clean. This is just knowledge I have I am in no way having at go at anyone and also up for any info if people have "clean diesel oil"Quote:
Originally Posted by 45/70
How have you plumbed your dawes . have you bypassed the boost control solonoid ?
Yes mate, that's what got me so flustered. Doesn't seem rightQuote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Bad-Trol: 2004 GU3 ST-L. 2" OME lift and nitrocharger shocks with Airbag Man rear airbags and In-Cab gauge and controls, 33" Mickey Thompson MTZ's, AVM manual locking hubs, PWR radiator, Cross Country 4x4 intercooler with PWR core and thermo fan, PatrolDocta Stainless Steel airbox, Beaudesert 2 3/4" full Stainless Steel Exhuast, Dawes Valve, Catch Can, EGR block, Stepmotor Boost and EGT gauges, Dual Battieries, RedArc isolator, 47l ARB fridge on Outback Drawers with fridge slide, Rigid Industries 40" LED light bar(front) and twin diffused Dually's (rear) on Rhino Pioneer Tray roof rack, Lightforce XGT pencil spotties, TJM underbody radiator protection, GME 3440 handset, ARB compressor, plus more to come ;)
I plumbed as per instructions, the tee piece sitting on top p Dawes splits the vacuum hose from actuator to control, other end of Dawes to intercooler. Attachment 16890Quote:
Originally Posted by boots
Attachment 16891Attachment 16892
That right?
Bad-Trol: 2004 GU3 ST-L. 2" OME lift and nitrocharger shocks with Airbag Man rear airbags and In-Cab gauge and controls, 33" Mickey Thompson MTZ's, AVM manual locking hubs, PWR radiator, Cross Country 4x4 intercooler with PWR core and thermo fan, PatrolDocta Stainless Steel airbox, Beaudesert 2 3/4" full Stainless Steel Exhuast, Dawes Valve, Catch Can, EGR block, Stepmotor Boost and EGT gauges, Dual Battieries, RedArc isolator, 47l ARB fridge on Outback Drawers with fridge slide, Rigid Industries 40" LED light bar(front) and twin diffused Dually's (rear) on Rhino Pioneer Tray roof rack, Lightforce XGT pencil spotties, TJM underbody radiator protection, GME 3440 handset, ARB compressor, plus more to come ;)
Whoa!
That signature sucks!... Just changed it, sorry.
Bad-Trol: 2004 GU3 ST-L. Sent from my iPhone
Yes by the photo you are still going through the vacuum control solonoid and your egr is blocked .so the ecu is telling your vacuum solonoid to close .hence your issues .Best advice I can give you BT is to check out Chaz 's site ZD30 engine problems - he may have a quick link to it on his home page on this forum . research the section on manual boost control and check out his detailed diagrams on how to plumb it .
I will look into that, but will a needle valve sort out the issue?Quote:
Originally Posted by boots
Bad-Trol: 2004 GU3 ST-L. Sent from my iPhone
Yes . get a needle valve and bypass the vacuum control solonoid completely . plumb it as per Chaz's diagram and you will be on a winner . You have mentioned your dawes is screwed hard in also , when you redo everything ensure you pull apart your dawes and slightly stretch the spring inside . have seen on here Chaz giving people the same advice re the spring stretch .
Cheers mate, just ordered one! Bypassing the solenoid should make it all better.... Def agree.Quote:
Originally Posted by boots
Thanks for the advice ;)
Bad-Trol: 2004 GU3 ST-L. Sent from my iPhone