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I'm now looking at hard wiring the console fridge through a switch.
I'm going to need some help on what wire and fuse I need to use. My aux battery is behind the back seat and a fuse block is just above that.
What I want to do is cut off the cigarette plug from the fridge and extend the wires to a switch and then to the battery.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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If you unscrew the cigarette plug end, there should be a glass tube fuse in it. It will have the amperage on it.
Once you cut the plug off you should then be able to connect your switch and extend the wires to the fuse block near your battery with the same rated fuse that was in the cigarette plug.
(*I'm not an auto electrician)
Not very practical to hard wire the fridge. It will be a PITA when you need to pull it out for any reason - and you almost certainly will need to pull it out. Best option is to use an Anderson connector I reckon. You can still go with the switch and fuse.
Use what ever fuse its rate for and no higher, for the wire I would probably use 6mm minimum. That will be more that what the OEM cable is anyway so you should be fine. Or do what Brissieboy has said.
I would run a circuit from your fuse board at the back to an Anderson Plug under the console fridge and then use an Anderson plug off your fridge. This will give you a fused circuit and flexibility if you ever have to take it out. If you can also put an inline fuse in your new lead off the fridge then you are double protected and take protection with the fridge if you ever take to another car.
you need to join the lead to the new circuit anyway so you might as well just use an Anderson Plug for that joint.
The Anderson connection is a great suggestion. I'd use some of these Anderson powerpole connectors: https://www.jaycar.com.au/45a-anders...r-set/p/PT4406
They are more compact than the regular Anderson plugs.
I used some of these on the 12gauge cable for the sub in my car.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/04/40.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/04/41.jpg
Yeah i agree, the smaller style of Anderson will be plenty for this application. the problem with the full size anderson is the cable your using is just a bastard to clamp down in an Anderson plug.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cremulator
Looks like Darren's got you covered - Andersen plug is the way to go.
Doesn't sound like you will have much length of cable - but heavier is better than lighter. More fridge problems are voltage loss problems due to too thin cable than anything else.
Thank you gents.
An Anderson plug is probably the way to go. A quick eBay search brought up this.
I'm pretty sure that's the same as I'm using for my 50l when it's in the back.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/264217037012
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When I took off the front cover there was a fuse (I think 10amp) as part of the 12v wiring.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
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Just to confirm on wire size.
6mm or 6awg.
Thanks guys.
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6mm is huge overkill, 6awg (16mm) is stupid overkill for a little console fridge that'll draw couple of amps.
You'll need to put a fuse in to protect the smallest cable, which is the fridge cable. Or, buy 6mm, fuse that at 30-40A or whatever. Install a second fuse at/in the Anderson plug for the the fridge cable.
Ok. I'm confused...
A slight change of plans.
What I'm trying to do is run a cable (size ?) from my fuse block with the other end to have a double Anderson plug. One will power the fridge (1st pic ) and the other one of those little 12v ovens (2nd pic). I will cut off the cig plug and replace it with a Anderson and have a inline fuse (10 amp). I believe that the oven draws 6 or 7 amps.
So when both are on 11 amps would be the most if the fridge draws 3-4.
Fuse block fuse will be 15 amp, what size cable ??? Length would be between 1.5 - 2 metres.
Thanks.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/04/71.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/04/72.jpg
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This table may be of some interest.
So to play it safe, I'm going for 4mm Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by TimE
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Yep, and this one as well for referenceAttachment 80904
I would be running a larger single to the back for a Narva Fuse Block (Fused Distribution Block) this would give you bulk power to the back for all and everything then smaller fused circuits to each of your appliances. This makes fusing for different loads very very simple.
I've got one of those ovens , they come with a 15 amp fuse , they draw around 13-15 amp for about 20 sec when first plugged in , and settle to around 6-7 after that , great little oven for the price .
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I get what your saying, but I will have a inline fuse for each appliance. Fridge 10 amp and after reading gaddy post the oven will have a 15 amp if it blows I'll replace with a 20, all with 4 mm cable.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Thanks for that info.Quote:
Originally Posted by gaddy
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All done.
I did take everything on board and this is what it ended up with. Remember that I have my aux battery behind one of the rear draws and the fuse block just above that, bolted to the back of the cage.
8 gauge wire + to the fuse block and - to the battery, other end Anderson plug this pops up under the fridge, Jaycar had a pre made piggyback which was cheaper than making one, so one end goes to the fridge and the other will get bolted to the handbrake cover for the oven. The oven itself now has 4 mm wire, 15 amp inline fuse and an Anderson plug. The fridge has 10 amp and the fuse block has a 15 amp. Little test and nothing blow up[emoji16]. The oven seemed to heat up much quicker. The real test will be once these restrictions are lifted and we get out and about again.
Thanks for all the help.
First time making up and Anderson plug wasn't difficult at all.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/04/76.jpg
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