4.2 tdi coolant temp

Hey guys.
Plugged in my ECUTalk into my recently purchased 2006 4.2tdi.
Outside temp was around 30ish. Temps sat around 92/93 at 100k/ph. Thought I’d work her a bit harder and see what happened (speed limit is 130 here), sat at 110 on flat surface for around 10mins and temp got up to about 103 before I backed off.
I am thinking this is a bit high, what are your thoughts?
Going to change the radiator cap, pressure tank cap and thermostat next weekend to all new genuine Nissan parts.
What’s the thermostat set at on the original? On my old zd I used to run genuine Nissan coolant at about 30% strait to 70% water. Is this the same for the 4.2?


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Hey Mate

Congratulations on the purchase of a Td42tdi
what made you sell your zd30?


Anyway I do personally think thats higher than it should be.


Even today 40 degrees I hit around 78 degrees at most around suburb. Highway on a hot 38 degree day I hit at most was 83 degrees.

Good idea changing all the cheap stuff and easy stuff first.


Sounds like some maintenance is creeping up that is required.
How many kms on the car?

Id say Could be fan clutch or Radiator needs to be replaced or taken to Radiator place to open end tanks and rod/clean out tubes.

It's still within Nissan operating spec. I hit those temps on hot days on long long steep hills or towing on hot days long hills.




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Did come back down quickly ish when you took your foot off?


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I think its 115 or 119c is when the factory GU temp gauge will start to move towards hot. Your temps are pretty much on par with mine. Having said that, mine was running cooler prior to getting new injectors. I just think I need to get the TD a good tune up.

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Originally Posted by drgtr

Hey Mate

Congratulations on the purchase of a Td42tdi
what made you sell your zd30?


Anyway I do personally think thats higher than it should be.


Even today 40 degrees I hit around 78 degrees at most around suburb. Highway on a hot 38 degree day I hit at most was 83 degrees.

Good idea changing all the cheap stuff and easy stuff first.


Sounds like some maintenance is creeping up that is required.
How many kms on the car?

Id say Could be fan clutch or Radiator needs to be replaced or taken to Radiator place to open end tanks and rod/clean out tubes.

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Thanks mate - I had just lost all faith in my zd. I had the motor rebuilt at 280000ish which cost me around 7k. Sold it when it was at 345000k. Spent a lot of money upgrading everything - intercooler, radiator, Dawes & needle, egr block, catch can, gauges etc etc. Then things just started braking/wearing out- as they do when cars get old, alternator, suspension sagged, clutch and heaps of other things, I just got sick of changing parts every second weekend on a car that I was worried was going to brake down on me every time I went into town (330ks each way) so upgraded to the 4.2 for a bit more reliability!


The td has now got 222000 on it. So far all I’ve done is block the egr. Viscous fan seems ok and temp drop down pretty quickly once I back off. Went for a drive today - about 40 odd outside, sat at 80ks and temps were at 84ish, then sat on 100 for a bit and they got up to 95.

How many liters of coolant does the td take and what ratio do you use?


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50/50 mix I do on mine. I think its about 13 litres or so of coolant if you get all the coolant out of the block.

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Originally Posted by dpetersen

Thanks mate - I had just lost all faith in my zd. I had the motor rebuilt at 280000ish which cost me around 7k. Sold it when it was at 345000k. Spent a lot of money upgrading everything - intercooler, radiator, Dawes & needle, egr block, catch can, gauges etc etc. Then things just started braking/wearing out- as they do when cars get old, alternator, suspension sagged, clutch and heaps of other things, I just got sick of changing parts every second weekend on a car that I was worried was going to brake down on me every time I went into town (330ks each way) so upgraded to the 4.2 for a bit more reliability!


The td has now got 222000 on it. So far all I’ve done is block the egr. Viscous fan seems ok and temp drop down pretty quickly once I back off. Went for a drive today - about 40 odd outside, sat at 80ks and temps were at 84ish, then sat on 100 for a bit and they got up to 95.

How many liters of coolant does the td take and what ratio do you use?


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I personally think you made a great decision. The Td42ti are simplistic. Pushrod overhead valves with timing gears. Easy to adjust tappets. Easy to service. Can extract plenty of power and reliability.
Save up 450 bucks or so and throw her on the dyno.
an overly rich Td42 can run hotter due to too much fuel.

If you have an 3 inch turbo back exhaust
Top mount intercooler (which you do from factory)

The tuner can get the mixture perfect on 16psi with the stock HT18 turbo.

I think stoichmetric will be around 20 to 18:1 on full boost.
Thats basically good on fuel and not hot.
The cruise mixtures will be far leaner so even better.

In saying that though. I swear by this from what I seen.
A stock Td42ti factory cooling system that is in new condition can tow up a hill on a 40 degree day and it will not overheat or even move to the 2/3rd mark of the factory gauge.


If you require extra cooling because you are doing some extra heavy duty stuff then the following can help:
1) Make sure all parts are new (Thermostat,Viscous Fan, Radiator, Pump and coolant)
2)G35 Nissan Skyline Fan on original Viscous Hub (Thicker, Stronger and flows way more air through bench testing)
or
3)UFI United Fuel Injection Fan upgrade?
4)More toyota silicone oil into the fan clutch to make it lock up more
5)Thermostat With bypass difference (part numbers) TT2028-180 or DT79A(almost totally blocks bypass of coolant) The factory thermostat has to open 9mm to block the bypass at 100deg.
TT2028-180 opens 5mm at 85deg. DT79A From Mazda Tribute Basically early model. TT2028-180 from Peaguot or Hyundai.

Basically those thermostats are straight replacements. They virtually dont let any coolant bypass the radiator back into the engine. Just google it. There is more information :)


Everyone is slightly different but I use 60 water / 40 coolant.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drgtr

I personally think you made a great decision. The Td42ti are simplistic. Pushrod overhead valves with timing gears. Easy to adjust tappets. Easy to service. Can extract plenty of power and reliability.
Save up 450 bucks or so and throw her on the dyno.
an overly rich Td42 can run hotter due to too much fuel.

If you have an 3 inch turbo back exhaust
Top mount intercooler (which you do from factory)

The tuner can get the mixture perfect on 16psi with the stock HT18 turbo.

I think stoichmetric will be around 20 to 18:1 on full boost.
Thats basically good on fuel and not hot.
The cruise mixtures will be far leaner so even better.

In saying that though. I swear by this from what I seen.
A stock Td42ti factory cooling system that is in new condition can tow up a hill on a 40 degree day and it will not overheat or even move to the 2/3rd mark of the factory gauge.


If you require extra cooling because you are doing some extra heavy duty stuff then the following can help:
1) Make sure all parts are new (Thermostat,Viscous Fan, Radiator, Pump and coolant)
2)G35 Nissan Skyline Fan on original Viscous Hub (Thicker, Stronger and flows way more air through bench testing)
or
3)UFI United Fuel Injection Fan upgrade?
4)More toyota silicone oil into the fan clutch to make it lock up more
5)Thermostat With bypass difference (part numbers) TT2028-180 or DT79A(almost totally blocks bypass of coolant) The factory thermostat has to open 9mm to block the bypass at 100deg.
TT2028-180 opens 5mm at 85deg. DT79A From Mazda Tribute Basically early model. TT2028-180 from Peaguot or Hyundai.

Basically those thermostats are straight replacements. They virtually dont let any coolant bypass the radiator back into the engine. Just google it. There is more information :)


Everyone is slightly different but I use 60 water / 40 coolant.

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Thanks drgtr.

There’s so much I want to do to the car but just getting the important stuff done first. When I’m in town next I’m going to get the tappets adjusted.
Catch can is next along with diff breathers.

Thanks for the detailed info drgtr. I’m not after any massive cooling mods as I generally don’t tow anything more then my small work trailer. I just need the cooling system to be in tip top shape, particularly this time of the year when we often get around 45*.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by dpetersen

Went for a drive today - about 40 odd outside, sat at 80ks and temps were at 84ish, then sat on 100 for a bit and they got up to 95.

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Sounds much like mine, even when we are in full tour mode (approx 5 tonne including loaded Tvan).

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Originally Posted by mudski

50/50 mix I do on mine.

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That's what I run mine at. However when I was having temp gauge problems in Tassie late last year & changed the sender unit, we lost a reasonable amount of coolant & the guy at the radiator place in Burnie topped it back up with water. I asked about this as I wasn't keen to have the coolant over diluted. He tested the coolant with a litmus (or similar) strip & showed me that the coolant was 'strong' enough to do the job. He told me that higher ratios than about 30% didn't give any extra benefit.

That said I'll probably stick with 50% just so if I do end up having to drop some coolant, or get a leak out in Woop Woop I can top it back up with water & have a reasonable chance of still having sufficient coolant strength.

Interesting topic, I have a much earlier GU TD42T and bought it with a very understated over heating issue, I have since gotten a bigger radiator and returned to the GQ fan and hub as the fan pulls a lot more air, some bloke did a comparison with an air flow meter. The interesting thing I have to add is I have an aftermarket gauge with the sender mounted very close to the original and while my factory gauge in hot weather with a trailer going up hills will read 3/4 plus my aftermarket gauge has never gone above 96c, do you know the temp/ gauge comparison for a factory gauge?

FWIW, have foolishly overloaded and sometimes emergency necessity loaded stock TD42T (no IC’s) to boil and beyond. IIRC the stock circa 2001ish guages were a poofteenth off boiling before leaving 3/4 on the gauge.
Friggin tough motor they are and kept hauling back water for us off their stock dials throughout bad Vic Saturdays then :-(


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Update
Changed the radiator cap, pressure tank cap, thermostat and coolant today.
Drove it for about 15mins at 110kph, temps still got up to 102. Let it idle for about five mins and it only dropped to 97*.
I am thinking the radiator is on it’s way out.
What do you guys think?

I would get the Rad professionally serviced (rodded etc).
Sounds to me like there is definitely insufficient 'exchange' of heat happening.

What sort of nick is the water pump in?
Get that checked with the Rad maybe

Not sure on the condition of the water pump, how would I check it,
What’s it worth to get a rad “rodded”?
Just trying to find prices on a new genuine one and it looks like they are around the $800 mark.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dpetersen

Not sure on the condition of the water pump, how would I check it,
What’s it worth to get a rad “rodded”?
Just trying to find prices on a new genuine one and it looks like they are around the $800 mark.

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Radiator cap open and watch coolant move when Thermostat is opened

Rodding is quite cheap. Take the radiator out yourself.
They will open both end tanks and rod clean out the tubes.
Just make sure they seal end tanks properly and pressure test in front of your eyes.

Alot of people think drop and draining coolant is sufficient for a radiator. Rodding is the way to go

I seen anywhere from $60 dollars to $120 dollars

Cool sounds like the way to go.
Will have to check if anywhere in Alice Springs does it. I don’t even think we have a radiator place any more.

Spoke with the radiator bloke today.
$250-$300 to rod the old one if I pull it out.
$380 for a new adrad radiator. Might as well put a new one in it, just have to confirm the size. Does anyone have the size on them?
It’s a 2006 GU iv 4.2

Measurements are in this ebay ad.

Shouldnt he know if he sells radiators?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Radiator...8AAOSwqXZZxbvW

CORE SIZE:

630mm(H) X 570mm(W) X 32m(T) 1 ROW

Adrad one with measurements . Same as above https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Radiator...MAAOSwuMZZCYUT

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Originally Posted by drgtr

Adrad one with measurements . Same as above https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Radiator...MAAOSwuMZZCYUT

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Thanks @drgtr. Looks like the adrad it the go!


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I have aftermarket VDO temp gauge and now have sorted the problem of large movements up and down(60 to 115) because cable from sender was lying on top cable for EGT for some distance to rear of dash and obviously stray current was causing problems.Glad I installed Dessert Cooler radiator before last trip to the West.
Not impressed with VDO Aust distributor as they do not answer phone or return calls when a message is left.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dpetersen

Thanks @drgtr. Looks like the adrad it the go!


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How did you go in the end? All worked out?

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Originally Posted by drgtr

How did you go in the end? All worked out?

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Changed the rad with the adrad. It was sitting on around 90* at 100k p/h with temps about 45 outside. If I pushed it any harder to say 110, temps got to around 108*.

Iv fitted a 3inch exhaust since then though with dump pipe, new injectors and a tune plus a rebuilt fuel pump. Hasn’t really been hot enough since though to test it out though so will have to wait until summer now.


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Where do you have the temp sensor again?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dpetersen

Changed the rad with the adrad. It was sitting on around 90* at 100k p/h with temps about 45 outside. If I pushed it any harder to say 110, temps got to around 108*.

Iv fitted a 3inch exhaust since then though with dump pipe, new injectors and a tune plus a rebuilt fuel pump. Hasn’t really been hot enough since though to test it out though so will have to wait until summer now.


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Also advance your timing too. It will go sooo much nicer and lower EGT too