Not sure mate. Mine don't rattle. :)
Yeah I installed one ages ago Jack. It actually just slides in the a/c evap box. Easily accessible.
Yeah I thought about it. But I need to replace the rear bumper first.
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Not sure mate. Mine don't rattle. :)
Yeah I installed one ages ago Jack. It actually just slides in the a/c evap box. Easily accessible.
Yeah I thought about it. But I need to replace the rear bumper first.
Like you said Mr Mark, great time to clean up all aftermarket wires whilst in there too, top idea/work!
Reckon I’d slack off refitting it all though and just cut a Bunnings checker plate tradie tool box in half longways as a new robust dash for ease of opening next time around. Would probably loose the damn lock keys again no doubt knowing me :-)
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Haha! While I have the heater box out I will replace all the foam bits too. Wish I had more time because now I want to rip the entire interior out now, lay some sound deadening down and put new carpet in. But Licola is coming up and the boss wants her garage space back.
Now I have this apart, I really cannot see how you can remove the heater box without removing every first as some have said on Facebook. Physically impossible.
Yeah that's what i did with mine replaced all the bits that seal the joints as the factory foam backed tape turns to dust. . . And sound deadening used PingJing chinese version of dynamat but cheaper and just as good. .
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Propped up the patrol to check the wheel brgs adjustment - all good. Swapped out the damaged shocker - total write-off. Measured up the spring length on the brake proportional valve and its a weird setup. The free spring length is 195mm, should be in the range of 208 to 220 by the manual. Its an 'tension spring' meanings its pulling the two spring mount points together, and I can't see how i am going to get it anywhere near the ideal. Right now the lever on the arm is sitting off the actual hex head bolt that restricts movement. Any help would be appreciated. I am running an extension bracket due to the 3" nominal lift in the back, should this be removed - if I do remove it the spring will come under more load and try to shorten its length.
From what I remember Phil the arm and spring should be at right angles to each other with the vehicle unladen. There is a pdf on the interwebs somewhere about this....
Thanks Mark, they are pretty much as you mention, however Darren @MudRunnerTD directed me to the spring length parameter which is in the manual, hence where the lengths came from. Braking is a lot better now after a few klm;s on the new disks and pads, but there is still a front brake bias thats a bit out of kilter I reckon.