two seperate steels most exhaust pipe is aluminized steel,
so a stainless system is a bit of overkill imo.
Grab some 3 bolt flanges so you can just bolt it in
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two seperate steels most exhaust pipe is aluminized steel,
so a stainless system is a bit of overkill imo.
Grab some 3 bolt flanges so you can just bolt it in
[QUOTE=dom14;706004]FYI, I've resealed the skin three times already.
It's got the better of me. .... why , and maybe thats the problem !
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Just updating.
The muffler rattle suddenly vanished and it purrs like a pussy cat right now.
This has been happening for a while though.
Sometime it's rattling like hell and other times nothing.
I think the baffle plate(s) are moving around inside and sometimes get lodged firmly inside and no noise.
Something to think about Dom. Just last week I had an issue on a piece of mobile equipment I service. A two cylinder motor running on one cylinder. When I pulled it down it had one bent and one broken push rod. Repaired and started it but although it was now on two cylinders it developed no power. Exhaust appeared blocked. Anyway to cut a long one short, the baffles in the muffler had come loose and one had managed to get stuck in the exhaust outlet blocking it about 90%. It was this that caused the motor to back pressure at full noise and break/bend push rods.Repair cost? about $1600.00. Just because its now lodged somewhere and not rattling is not necessarily a good thing.
Thanx mate. It is well timed good advice for me.
I most certainly won't muck around with this, and have it replaced asap.
Of course, excessive back pressure can't be a good thing for these old worn out engines.
I'm about to do a basic back pressure test with the vacuum pressure gauge following the guides below.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/exhaust_backpressure.htm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-jp1IIJVVk
Hey Guys,
Can I use a Fuel Pressure Gauge(gauge goes upto 10psi) to check the exhaust back pressure?
I can use EGR port on the exhaust manifold to tap into with a suitable adapter.
Would it cook the fuel pressure gauge/vacuum gauge in no time?
Or would it damage the gauge if the pressure hit above 10psi instantly?
I'm guessing I only need to use it for few seconds.
Just rip it out and wels a piece of pipe in it place until you get a new one. What's the point in risking any damage that may be caused........ you may as well just use water instead of coolant for the next couple of years for that matter
Thanx mate. I'm not driving it right now as I'm fixing few things.
No argument it's gotta be replaced asap.
I have a vacuum gauge permanently hooked up so that can help as well(assuming I'm alert enough to keep an eye on it all the time).
I do take risks occasionally, but they are calculated risks, usually(unless a Shiela involved). ;)