Nice neat job mate, well done.
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Nice neat job mate, well done.
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the bar is off to the sandblaster and powdercoaters as we speak. Hopefully have it tomorrow or early next week!
Attachment 81253Attachment 81254
I replaced the light bar and spottie switches with the new winch switches and got these fancy Narva push button switches, which are smaller, for the other side (RHS) of the dash cowling. As in the GU the area on the RHS of the cowling you cannot fit the usual Carling style rocker switches. God I hope I've done the pre wiring right at the switches...
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Got the bar back from the sand blasters and powder coaters yesterday. Getting thereAttachment 81286
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Came up good except for where I did my hole patch up work. It’s quite obvious, but it looks a heap better now. So I’m not too concerned. Yet.
I also had all the special washers, and one of the adjuster stops zinc plated. The other stop would not come out so it stayed in the bar.
Attachment 81289
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I have the viscous hub apart with radiator out too. Took 4ml of oil out of the hub as it’s constantly locked on. Hopefully this will be enough to let it not be on all the time.
This is what they look like inside them....
Attachment 81288
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Mark, how do you fill the hub, as its split or through a port of some description? How exactly is the shearing action achieved in the coupling and do you know if the liquid acts like some sort of balancer on the front of the water pump? Interested to understand how the fluid flows around inside the unit. BB can up really good I think also, well done.
To fill the hub, there is four bolts holding the two halves together. Remove the bolts then let the hub sit with the mounting flange facing upward and let it sit for a while to let the oil go into the other half of the hub, split the hub in half and that pictured above is exactly how you see it wen first opened. Except without the blue silastic everywhere, This hub has been opened many times.
So how the hub works is....Watch this actually. Its really well explained...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwM4OqsLek4
Thanks mark, bit clearer than the other couple of youtube clips I watched. Its not dissimilar to a drive fluid coupling I have used - unsure why I thought it was.
So not happy with how the current Redarc water temp sensor was fitting by the mechanic years ago I have decided to change it. The way it was, the probe wasn’t even in the stat housing as the adapter was too long.
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Upon remove the stat housing cover and sticking my finger in there I couldn’t even feel the probe. At all. So I was wondering how accurate my water temps actually are. Whether the readings were more so residual temps from the block heating up rather than actual water.
So I put the sensor in the lid where the low water sensor was and drilled and tapped a new spot next to it for the low water sensor. Now to find something to plug up the hole where the temp sensor was...
Attachment 81348
Attachment 81349
It will be interesting to see if this makes any difference
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