Standard or hiflow thermostat for 02 gu td42t

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23rd September 2016, 12:06 PM
Robo

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Standard or hiflow thermostat for 02 gu td42t

Had a cooling issue towing and have now upgraded to a ARE alloy twin core rad.
I'm looking at the thermostat now.
daily, with towing duties big van.
Iv'e been a little unlucky in the past prior to upgrade imo with temps getting to 105 C in cool weather on a long-ish approx 1k but low grade climbs, and want to stop this sort of problem before the hot weather turns up.

I've read n read and it seems common for 100+ deg c to be seen as ok, but this is around boiling point and not ok imo.
so little perplexed on which thermostat to use.

Thermostats listed for said car.
Std is set at ----76.5 deg.
aftermarket-----80.0 deg.
a/m hiflow also-80.0 deg.

things floating around inside the little mussel.
Should I be fitting say hi flow 76 deg c ?
Is hiflow a good thing as it will allow more flow partially open, and then open more when pushed to keep things under control when hills appear?
Or just stick with a std oem unit ?

oh and egt's are good, large t/m so that's not the issue or part the problem.

Note- hi flow is recommended for towing according to it's packaging.
Attachment 69151
thoughts please.

Update as the aftermarket temps were quoted wrong they should be 70deg c
23rd September 2016, 12:48 PM
mudski

Certainly worth a shot. Its not a big cost so I would give it a go for sure.
I think I will be doing the same to mine soon. I also have a hi flow water pump. I have just fitted a UFI radiator, larger 2 core copper jobbies, added more oil into the viscous fan clutch so it engages earlier, and change my fan to an Infinity G35 fan. Haven't taken it for a test but I might do today...
Air flow is paramount of these motors. See the big gap you have between the top of the rad and the support panel? This needs to be blocked up. Same goes for the sides. Otherwise at high speed, where mine usually gets hotter, the fast moving air just hits the rad and goes out the top and sides, and not through the rad.
23rd September 2016, 04:21 PM
Robo

Quote:

Originally Posted by mudski

Certainly worth a shot. Its not a big cost so I would give it a go for sure.
I think I will be doing the same to mine soon. I also have a hi flow water pump. I have just fitted a UFI radiator, larger 2 core copper jobbies, added more oil into the viscous fan clutch so it engages earlier, and change my fan to an Infinity G35 fan. Haven't taken it for a test but I might do today...
Air flow is paramount of these motors. See the big gap you have between the top of the rad and the support panel? This needs to be blocked up. Same goes for the sides. Otherwise at high speed, where mine usually gets hotter, the fast moving air just hits the rad and goes out the top and sides, and not through the rad.

Yeah I was looking at the gap all the way round also thinking the same thing.
How much oil did you add?.
I haven't pulled a viscus hub apart before, but I have some fluid in the draw ready to top up or refill.
That said its still fairly tight, I got the oil with the intention of replacing but it still only turns very minimal by hand.

Humm g35 fan, I have a gt35 skyline, same car I thought, and it runs all electric fans, so which fan are you talking about.

And the ARE rad is more open to allow better air flow so, yeah off to see if I have some stick on foam or buy some.
23rd September 2016, 04:58 PM
nissannewby

Whichever way you go you need to make sure that the thermostat will close the bypass port in the thermostat housing. This helps a lot. If the thermostat does not close the bypass port when it opens then temps will rise and could be a problem.
23rd September 2016, 08:02 PM
jff45

Mark, how much space do you have between rad & fan with the G35? I have a 52mm 3 core rad and my G35 fan only has 15 mm space at the bottom. I moved the rad top further forward to have a bit more there.
I also put 3 x 18ml into my hub but it's never been hot enough to lock it.

Edit: forgot to add I use a 77 degree Tridon thermostat.
23rd September 2016, 11:57 PM
Robo

Quote:

Originally Posted by nissannewby

Whichever way you go you need to make sure that the thermostat will close the bypass port in the thermostat housing. This helps a lot. If the thermostat does not close the bypass port when it opens then temps will rise and could be a problem.

How much should the bypass valve extend when at full opening temp?
More than the seat depth to put some pressure on seat to ensure a good seal?

But hoping problem was only lack of decent radiator.
will know more next week when I get our van back from the annex man and give it the business with new parts, fingers crossed.

I have an idea my right foot has something to do with it.
but when it first happened in cool weather something had to be done before summer.
24th September 2016, 10:50 AM
nissannewby

Yes it needs to close the port. I have even seen people put a small spacer on the bottom to make sure it closes.
29th September 2016, 10:28 AM
Robo

Well the after market thermostat supplied was the wrong one.
80 deg c is for zd30 not td42t.
Went back into ask if they had one cooler, wasn't happy with the one supplied , consulted catalog noticed the discrepancy.
Going by the catalog 70 deg is for td engine.
swap out n see what happens now.
didn't go hiflow just std.

ggrrrr doing things over n over.

thinking lol, mill 2mm from top of housing and thermostat seat to remedy by pass issue.
29th September 2016, 08:39 PM
mudski

Quote:

Originally Posted by jff45

Mark, how much space do you have between rad & fan with the G35? I have a 52mm 3 core rad and my G35 fan only has 15 mm space at the bottom. I moved the rad top further forward to have a bit more there.
I also put 3 x 18ml into my hub but it's never been hot enough to lock it.

Edit: forgot to add I use a 77 degree Tridon thermostat.

Sorry mate for the late reply....
About 30mm gap there is.
One thing i have noticed with the new fan is the amount of air it moves. Upon start up when the fan is engaged you can really feel the air being pulled through when you have the bonnet open.
I just got a hi flow thermostat. Ill get that in soon. Hopefully i have enough oil in teh viscous hub. It will be a pain to just remove the fan and hub without taking the radiator out...
Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk
12th October 2016, 12:03 PM
Robo

Quote:

Originally Posted by mudski

Certainly worth a shot. Its not a big cost so I would give it a go for sure.
I think I will be doing the same to mine soon. I also have a hi flow water pump. I have just fitted a UFI radiator, larger 2 core copper jobbies, added more oil into the viscous fan clutch so it engages earlier, and change my fan to an Infinity G35 fan. Haven't taken it for a test but I might do today...
Air flow is paramount of these motors. See the big gap you have between the top of the rad and the support panel? This needs to be blocked up. Same goes for the sides. Otherwise at high speed, where mine usually gets hotter, the fast moving air just hits the rad and goes out the top and sides, and not through the rad.

You replaced only the fan as the G35 fan fits the TD viscus correct?

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