Installing a Boost and Pyro Gauge

[MC97GQ]

Hi All,

As you might know I have recently received my Boost and Pyro gauges from Auber Instruments, so as promised I thought I would post a step by step install guide.

Please bare with me as this is my first instructional post.

So the first post will be the parts that arrived from Auber as well as some parts I've sourced to do the job.

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The first photo shows stuff for the boost gauge,

1 Auber Instrument 1813B Digital Boost Gauge(Blue Display)-supplied
1 Cable to suit-supplied
1 Auber 303 MAP sensor-supplied
2 Stainless Washers
2 Fibre Washers
some assorted 1/4 Air Fittings
8mm rubber hose
2 Hose Clamps
And Loctite to secure the threads


The second photo shows the stuff that comes for the Pyro Gauge

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1 Auber Instruments 1813A EGT/Pyro Gauge(Amber Display) - Supplied
1 K type clamp on thermal probe - Supplied

So as I get to doing the job I will add more info

Mark

[MC97GQ]

Well today I got to make a start on installing the MAP sensor for the boost gauge.

I marked on the inlet for the manifold where I was going to place the air fittings and removed the four small bolts

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Carefully removing the inlet pipe and flange(it may need a gentle tap with a rubber mallet) cover the hole in the manifold with a clean rag(to stop any rubbish entering the manifold).

I then clamped the flange in the vise, make sure you place a piece of soft wood between the jaw of the vise and the machined face of the flange(you don't want to mark the face where it seats on the gasket)

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Mark where you are going to place your fitting and gently using a centre punch mark where you are going to drill.

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I drilled the hole using 5mm drill to start with and then drilled it out to 10mm(if you wanted to tap and screw your fitting you would use a smaller drill and then tap a thread)

Then using the two 1/4 air fittings I sandwiched a stainless and fibre washer on either side of the inlet pipe to form an airtight seal. After test fitting everything I then applied a bit of Loctite thread locker to both threads on the fittings and tightened everything up(didn't want any bits coming adrift in the inlet manifold)

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I then applied a bit of Loctite instant gasket to the face of the flange and reassembled everything back onto the manifold. And reconnected my pipe from the turbo.

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Now the Auber MAP sensor comes with two little lugs that allow it to fit onto the fingers on the inlet manifold.

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Attach your 8mm hose to the nipple on the MAP sensor

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Then work out how much hose you need to have a nice gentle curve to the nipple on the intake manifold, clamp everything up tight enough so there are no air leaks but not to tight as to damage the nipple on the MAP sensor(it is only plastic)

Slip the MAP sensor onto one of the fingers and job is done.

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I am just waiting on parts for the EGT probe and will put a write up about that. And then will do a post on the auto electrical side of installing the gauges.

Special thanks goes out to those who helped me on where best to locate the probe.

Mark

[MC97GQ]

So I finally got the rest of the stuff for the boost and pyro gauges from the US today(28/3/2012).

The first thing I had to do was get a new clamp for the probe as the one from Auber only suits up to 2 1/2 inch dump pipes and mine is 3 inches, I used a Tridon 74-79mm T Clamp.

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I then drilled a 3/8" hole in the clamp to take the nipple for the probe

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I located the clamp on the dump pipe and marked where to drill the hole and using a 1/4" drill(as per Aubers instructions) drilled the hole in the dump pipe.

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I then fitted the nipple and clamp to the dump pipe, don't be tempted to over tighten the clamp as it needs to expand and contract as the dump pipe heats up(this is also in Aubers instructions)

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Insert the probe into the dump pipe (being careful not to lose the little brass olive/ferrule) to the required depth between 1/3 and 1/2 way into the dump pie and tighten up the nut, Auber recommend the probe sits at right angles(90 degrees) to the dump pipe.

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I then coiled the excess probe cable and cable tied it to the bracket on the inner guard which is near the hole in the firewall where I ran the cable

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Then it was onto fitting the gauges and the auto electrical work

[MC97GQ]

These are the mounting enclosures for the gauges, they have a small hole in the back to run cables, I had to enlarge the hole, I used a 1/2" drill and then fitted a rubber grommet so there were no rough edges.

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I ran the cable for the EGT from the passengers side footwell behind the dash and up through the gap between the dash and the A pillar, The cable from the MAP sensor came through the firewall near the hand throttle cable and up through the same gap. And lastly were the wires from behind the console to power the gauges and dim the lights.

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I had already made the wiring harness for the power and lights previously, I used 2 core wire(black and red) for the power as well as a single strand of yellow wire for the light dimmer. I soldered the ends and crimped small forked spade connectors to attach to the back of the gauges.

The gauges have screw in connections on the back


A little tip for soldering the ends of the wire, is if you find an old dessert spoon clamp it in your vise and using a small blow torch melt some solder in the spoon and dip the twisted bare ends of your wire in the molten solder




I had also created a loop in the harness so only one lot of wires had to run to the gauges from behind the dash. The positive(red)negative(black) and dimmer(yellow) runs into the back of one gauge and out to the back of the next gauge and on the other end I attached male insulated spade connectors.

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I had already done a similar thing from one of my custom rockers switches in the centre console to pick up power, earth and light dimmer. I ran a cable from this switch, behind the console to near the drivers side footwell and placed insulated female connectors on the end so it was just a matter of plugging in the harness for the gauges.

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Once everything was connected and tested to check the connections, it was time to mount the enclosures. I had already joined the two enclosures together, I did this using double sided tape to join the two housings together. I placed double sided tape on on the top of the bottom gauge enclosure and then carefully on a flat even surface with the enclosures on their sides, pushed the two enclosures together to they were neatly lined up.

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As the enclosures fit neatly into the depression in the dash next to the instrument cluster, I decided to just use double sided tape to hold them in position. I hate drilling holes in a perfectly good dash, but thats a matter of personal preference

Once I was happy with how everything fitted, I then cable tied all the cables I had installed to existing wiring harnesses under the dash so that everything was out of the way and neat.

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Above is the view from the drivers seat, I think they came up pretty tidy and do not take up a lot of space.


So that's it for now I hope some of you might find this of interest

Mark

[Rogerthat]

mate about to buy some auber gear myself, EGT / Boost / Water temp - following closely. any feedback would be appreciated.

[MC97GQ]

Hey Rogerthat,

I have had a bit of a play with gauges , just on the test bench and a temporary rig up in the truck and I've gotta say, I'm pretty impressed so far.

If you get the EGT gauge spend the extra money and get the longer EGT probe(4 metres) as the 2 metre one doesn't leave much room for routing the cable. Auber don't recommend lengthening or shortening the wires for the probe(apparently it effects the readings).

But I do like the high and low alarm settings you can program on them, but I will provide more info when I finish the install.

And with the Aussie $ riding high at the moment they are fairly cheap.

Mark

[Rogerthat]

Thanks mate, will be making my 3 gauge purchase this weekend and thanks for the feedback on the longer probe, i admit i was just planning to lengthen cable but if there's a signal drop or similar than i'll do it properly.... how are you mounting in cab?

[MC97GQ]

Hey Rog,

Planning on putting both gauges between the instrument cluster and the A pillar(thus the longer cable on the EGT Probe). The boost cable at 2 metres will be fine as it will go through the firewall near the hand throttle cable, but the EGT cable will go through the firewall down near the passengers kick panel(there is already a hole, I will post some pics when I get further into the installation)and run behind the centre console to the A pillar. I picked the spot near the instrument cluster as it's bit of a nothing spot, so it's a good place to put the gauges. I've also ordered the mounting enclosures and will work out how to piggy back them into that spot.

I hope this is of help

Mark

[tmijnhout]

yeah as the instrument will have a certain resistance in the cable that's why you can't shorten them or make them longer. They have been setup for the length they come in.

[MC97GQ]

Well i've finally finished my write up, I hope it is of some value to those who decide to use Auber Instruments digital gauges.

Once again special thanks to all those who gave me advice on where to mount the probes and were willing to help on where I was locating the gauges. I couldn't have done it without the great help and advice you receive on this forum.

[Troy76]

Iam running the EGT guage from these guys myself. I set mine up to a buzzer to sound when the high temp alarm is activated. Works a treat. I have just got the boost and water guages from them too. I love there guages.

[CUROUND]

Well i've finally finished my write up, I hope it is of some value to those who decide to use Auber Instruments digital gauges.

Once again special thanks to all those who gave me advice on where to mount the probes and were willing to help on where I was locating the gauges. I couldn't have done it without the great help and advice you receive on this forum.

Thanks Mark. A great post. Very informative. I've been following this stuff as I have a ZD30 motor and may need both.. Do yuo know of anyone who has done it for their ZD30's.

Cheers.

[kevin07]

bravo bravo luv it