Jump Starter Packs

[taslucas]

Just wondering peoples thoughts on those jumpstarter packs.

-how many starts can you get out of them?
-how long do they last from a full charge up (if unused)
-Ive heard they can stuff up if theyre run completely flat.
-Are they all fairly much the same quality or is there a big difference between the cheaper and more expensive?

Ill go the dual battery option one day but considering a jumperpack for now.

cheers for any thoughts

[Silver]

I got the Aldi one a while ago, because it was cheaper than just buying a bare 18ah gel battery.

I have never used it for jump starting, but do use it to run LED lights around the camp. I have also used the tyre compressor - which is slow but puffs 'em up eventually!

I no longer use the little charger pack that came with it - instead I clip my smart charger leads onto the jumper leads, which are directly connected to the battery. I'm thinking that the smart charger will look after the battery better.

I also took mine apart, and added a Merrit socket and will add an Anderson plug if the need arises.

[Bigrig]

Hmmm, something for me to look into also me thinks!!

[taslucas]

A mate has one and he's started 2 or 3 4wds in one day and said it seemed to have a bit of go left in it but thats about all the experience he has had.

[Bigrig]

A mate has one and he's started 2 or 3 4wds in one day and said it seemed to have a bit of go left in it but thats about all the experience he has had.

Can't be a bad thing I guess ... I'd be more inclined to use it for lights etc as per Silver's comments, so having something a bit more mobile as it were would be ideal ... be good to,run the fridge off too I suppose in the event of the deep cycle on the trailer not being charged (over a few days of camping)

[MudRunnerTD]

Is BIG Is GOOD! I have a 1200amp from Super Cheap and it works a treat. If it can turn over a TD42 then it is a good thing in my books.

I have used mine a fair bit with very flat batteries and it has never let me down. Would be good for quite a few cranks i reckon, i certainly have done a Dozen without a drama. Even using it when it is showing 75% and she cranks the TD42 with ease. And the TD42 is a Big engine to crank over.

[taslucas]

Is BIG Is GOOD! I have a 1200amp from Super Cheap and it works a treat. If it can turn over a TD42 then it is a good thing in my books.

I have used mine a fair bit with very flat batteries and it has never let me down. Would be good for quite a few cranks i reckon, i certainly have done a Dozen without a drama. Even using it when it is showing 75% and she cranks the TD42 with ease. And the TD42 is a Big engine to crank over.

Sweet as, i think im looking at the same one you got. Sounds good. How long have you had it?

[Bigrig]

Is BIG Is GOOD! I have a 1200amp from Super Cheap and it works a treat. If it can turn over a TD42 then it is a good thing in my books.

I have used mine a fair bit with very flat batteries and it has never let me down. Would be good for quite a few cranks i reckon, i certainly have done a Dozen without a drama. Even using it when it is showing 75% and she cranks the TD42 with ease. And the TD42 is a Big engine to crank over.

You've won me over old mate!!! It's on the list.

[Silver]

If you want it for lighting and fridges, you want the 20 hour (or some other stated) capacity, eg 18 amp hours = 18 amps delivered over 20 hrs.

If you want it for cranking you want CCAs. I think. Maybe.

I'd be interested to know what the 1200 number relates to. Can't be amp hours, or if it is I'm going to buy a few :-) Presumably not milliamps, as that's only 1.2 amps.

Can't find the supercheap product with a quick search on line.

[MC97GQ]

My mate who's also my mechanic got a 900amp one ages ago and swears by it,he uses it all the time(as he is a mobile mechanic in a rural area), it has the light and compressor built in as well.

I bought a cheaper one to use for jump starting the wifes CRV or the LPG Falcon in an emergency, because it always the case the car that needs a jump start is always parked in an awkward spot to get jumper leads to.

I haven't used the jump start feature yet, but the compressor has been handy, I have an old Greenfield ride on mower that lives in the back garden shed and more often than not when I want to use it the tyres are a bit low, and it's a pain to hook up the two 30metre air hoses to the compressor from the main garage just to pump them up.

[MudRunnerTD]

Sweet as, i think im looking at the same one you got. Sounds good. How long have you had it?

Ghee?? I reckon i have had it for 6 or 7 years for sure? Its a winner mate, mine is just the jump pack without the compressor but i have the compressor sorted so the jump pack is what i wanted.

Last year i went to Bluff Hut for a swag trip in the snow and took the jump pack and a couple of LED light bars that i made for camping and Bluff Hut was Fully lit that night and all that were there appreciated it. And! It'd jump me in the morning ;)

[Boofa]

hi I have had a couple of these and i dont have mutch good to say about them, it lasted mabey 3 trips, using as light, radio and a few jump starts then it simply would not charge up any more, it wasnt a very expensive one, but i was still dissapointed

[Bigrig]

hi I have had a couple of these and i dont have mutch good to say about them, it lasted mabey 3 trips, using as light, radio and a few jump starts then it simply would not charge up any more, it wasnt a very expensive one, but i was still dissapointed

What model mate if you recall?? Just might help others to steer clear of them!!

Cheers

[Silver]

While 18 amp/hours seems a lot, one of those compact flouro lights draws 1 amp ..... LEDs less, but add a few LEDs together and you get the idea. Fine for a weekend or even a long weekend, but would need to be used carefully for longer periods.

I think half the problem is that the chargers that come with them are not ideal. That is why I plug my multi stage Battery Fighter into the jump start leads and charge from there. A C-tek charger that is even smarter would probably be better again.

[taslucas]

Got a bit of an update....went camping with mates last weekend and noticed they were using a starter pack for music and lights(just small leds). It was just a fairly cheap sca one, 900 amp and he said he always runs them for music and lights when camping and it lasts the weekend easily. I thought they were more for two or three large amp jump starts but it looks as though they are good for low current, long time period.
I'm thinking of getting two! One for emergency starts and one for music and lights.

tappn it

[oncedisturbed]

I bought the sca 900cca pack yesterday and giving it a run this weekend as i have a dual battery system but havenot run the constant 12v sockets yet. Running a 50L ironman fridge (0.7 amps) and a 2.3m LED light strip.

Comes with a 5v usb charger on the rear which is sweet

Rough guess I can get a full weekend out of it runninh both. The bonus is if driving I can plug fridge into car and alao the battery pack and charge it whilst driving

[taslucas]

Good stuff. That is a good feature with the fridge. Look forward in hearing you report back.

tappn it

[mick.]

I've had my Blue Point one for about 8 years and it's only just had a new battery fitted. It was good for running a fridge all weekend. When I used to work in the smash repair industry we used them everyday. You could easily jump start 20 cars before they started to go flat but I leave the mine on the charger all the time so it's always full. I've also just bought a Porta Power Dominator P4 which is a lot bigger and it lasts longer again. It's got 2200 peak amps and a 26 amp hour battery.

Here's the link to the Porta Power ones.

http://portapower.com.au/index.php/products/jumpstarters

Cheers Mick.

[oncedisturbed]

Just got back from camping, the 900cca sca pack was crap for the fridge but awesome for running the led lights, charging mobile etc so it was still worth getting.

12v constant sockets and a new deep cycle getting put in this week

[rusty_nail]

Regardless, Rusty's 600A unit performed amazingly well. Just wondering about whether it's worth spending more for the 800A unit if possibly the wires wouldn't deliver the power.

hey mate, the cable is pretty thin, after it started marks motor they were slightly warm. all i know is it started the motor no dramas and for the amount of times it would do so i would not imagine the cables heating up slightly per use wouldnt be an issue as long as youre not starting car after car after car.

[Plasnart]

hey mate, the cable is pretty thin, after it started marks motor they were slightly warm. all i know is it started the motor no dramas and for the amount of times it would do so i would not imagine the cables heating up slightly per use wouldnt be an issue as long as youre not starting car after car after car.

Yep it certainly did an amazing job!

MB what size is that diesel pump of yours?

[mudnut]

STEER CLEAR OF THE UNIDEN UPP120. It came with all the bells and whistles, even a carry case and a small air compressor. My lead shorted out one of the variable outputs and blew the whole control circuit, and it won't even charge. I eventually got the case off and checked to see if there was a fuse, and found that there is NO CIRCUIT PROTECTION.

Also if you do some quick calculations using the basic size of the unit and attached conductors, you might get an unpleasant surprise regarding the claimed output. Hmmm, 600 amps through an EC5 connector? Methinks not...

[MB]

Not exactly sure mate, the manual is in Russian and never really needed to fix anything yet. It is only a twin cylinder air cooled but very long stroke as you can tell by the height of the donk.

[PeeBee]

[QUOTE=Plasnart;724460]At the forum meetup last weekend at MB's place, MB had problems starting a his large diesel water pump to transfer water from one dam up to another. Jumper leads from his Navara to the pump hardly provided enough power to turn it over but then rusty_nail brings out his tiny little Wuldmar 600A jump starter and it absolutely kicked it in the guts!! Very very impressive for such a small unit!!

[IMG]http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/162152049150

I think the actual power source is a 30V battery, not a 12V unit, and believe the amperage rating is a factor related to the 30V - 12V conversion, so in reality the cables only have to transfer 250a at 30V, to achieve a so called 600a charge at 12V. The duty cycle of the cable comes into how efficient this would be, heat is part of that rating. In most cases you will get a battery top up to allow starting with far less than this, hence why the cables look tiny. I have just purchased the 800a unit and agree you wont get 800a down the cables, even after they are smoke tested!

[mudnut]

Here is the unit's guts. As you can see it has a 12.23 volt battery rated at 12000mAH (12ampAH), which is impressive, but more realistic.

Don't get me wrong. These units are bloody fantastic, and could be a life saver, especially if your alternator packs up in the middle of
Whoop Whoop.

[Plasnart]

OK just received the Wuldmar 600A unit and hoping it's a quality unit. When Rusty used his at the recent forum meetup to start MB's russian water pump it certainly impressed.

The carry case and build quality of the unit itself seems good however the instruction pamphlet has been written by the KING OF CHINGLISH so that doesn't fill me with confidence in the product!

This is exactly what the instructions say:

Special Precautions of The Auto EPS
1. Please put the blue plug enough in the Auto EPS.
2. Make sure that the number of indicator lights are not less than 3.
3. If the Auto EPS can not start car, please stop to start car. Please check the clip of car's battery clamped firmly or not. And check the battery clip whether clamped firmly or not, And check there any. rust or dirt in the car? Start the car again after cleaned-up and checked.
4. During starting. If the blue indicator off or can't work. Please charger for the Auto EPS. Then it will work.
5. During starting. If the Auto EPS can't continue to start car after starting 3-5 times. Please stop to start car. Please check the other breakdowns.Otherwise it will make the fuse and Auto EPS broken.
6. When the car starts, remove Auto EPS cable from Auto EPS and disconnect red and black clamps to the car battery terminals within 30 seconds.
We do not take respensibility for loss caused by your operation against above usages. If you need the car to start technical support can call the dealer.

I won't bother listing the answers to common problems in use of the product as I haven't had enough time to work my way through the Chinglish!!!

So if you're reading this Mr Wuldmar, the instruction pamphlet does not make your unit appealing to a potential purchaser (and maybe this is why they're only sold online, not in stores). If I looked at this in the store I would not have bought it. But anyway it might just be a ripper thing so here's hoping!


http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/04/303.jpg

[GQtdauto]

That made perfect sense , not sure what your on about .

[redrat]

I purchased a Genius 2600 (26 amp) charger that works a treat. It also has a jump start function that will do 5 minutes at 30amps. If you wait 10 minutes, it will charge up again. This is the 240V version but they also have 'in vehicle' versions.
So far I've resurrected at least one battery and recharged the Patrol battery twice while faultfinding a fuel problem.

[MB]

Tractors battery is dead again and parked nose in, grrrr, gonna have to find out why soon.
Raced out and bought one of these little fellas.
https://www.industec.com.au/collections/powerall-power-bank-jump-starter/products/powerall-supreme
$199 on special today only at Repco, here's hoping it'll crank the 100hp Perkins over soon.
73372

[MB]

Happy Days:-) Started a 4.4L diesel no sweat!
EDIT: Was only at 80% charge outa the box too.

[TPC]

I was given one of those for my birthday last year and thought there's no way it would work but have jumped my brothers commodore with ease. Have not had a flat battery in the Patrol to try it on that.

[the evil twin]

Here is the one I have been using for 18 months or so, I have one at home and two at work.
They are a bit big for a glove box but stow away quite well in a nook somewhere or under a seat

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12-Off-Jump-Starter-Power-Bank-Lifepo4-Battery-12V-450A-/252458205266?epid=1876956350&hash=item3ac7ae8052:g:2JsAAOSwygJXhF~U

Vehicle preformance as a booster-
Easily starts my Chev 6.5 if cranker battery has enough to glow but cannot turnover. I tried it 3 times and uses about 10% each time and still wound it over as fast and started the 3rd attempt as the first.
Family member small 4 cyl petrol easily starts it from cold multiple times (after 3 starts over several days it had only dropped to 88%).
Work 4 and 5 cylinder Diesel Utes - starts 'em from dead cold even if it needs to glow them (struggles with my Chevy with Cranker disconnected so the LiFePo is the only source but then again it has 8 old school glow plugs before you can attempt to crank).

I use them for power for my test gear at remote sites (lugging in SLA's was a real piss off I can tell ya).
The advantage they have that makes them seem to punch out so much grunt is that the voltage doesn't sag anything like a Lead Acid as they load down or discharge.

Shelf life fully charged - the ones at work can sit around for 6 months or more and are still at 100% when turned on.

Current rating - vary wildly amongst different brands and I go by the size of the LiFePo4 battery rather than the claimed outputs. Any unit with a battery over 50 Watt/hours will do IMHO

Overall I cannot recommend the technology highly enough as an emergency back up to a Cranker... indeed the 4 cyl petty motor it spins faster than the onboard cranker

[MB]

I do remember you kindly posting that ripper one ET a while back. Shoulda acted back then and got one in the post. Typical me, leave it till the last minute and stuff the morning running around shops:-)

[the evil twin]

snip... Typical me, leave it till the last minute and stuff the morning running around shops:-)

ROFL... Typical me forgets about it till the last minute... age and alcohol, one you can't stop and the other just tastes too good

[mudnut]

My stuffed Uniden pack has gone flat and couldn't start the Falcon this morning.

I have manufactured a lead that allows me to connect the small battery top up solar panel to the pack. It was 11.86 volts and has now charged up to 11.90.

I did measure the voltage at 12.23 but the unit wasn't fully charged.

I don't want to over-charge the unit, so can someone please measure the voltage of a fully charged pack at the jump start socket and let me know what it is? Cheers.

[TPC]

My stuffed Uniden pack has gone flat and couldn't start the Falcon this morning.

I have manufactured a lead that allows me to connect the small battery top up solar panel to the pack. It was 11.86 volts and has now charged up to 11.90.

I did measure the voltage at 12.23 but the unit wasn't fully charged.

I don't want to over-charge the unit, so can someone please measure the voltage of a fully charged pack at the jump start socket and let me know what it is? Cheers.

Just measured mine after charging it and it was 12.52.

[MB]

Just measured mine too after charging with it registering 100% and only reads 12.28. Not sure if I have a dud but started the tractor last time at 80% no problems.


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[Hodge]

Just measured mine too after charging with it registering 100% and only reads 12.28. Not sure if I have a dud but started the tractor last time at 80% no problems.


Marko. Was that the same one you started that big dam pump motor with? That impressed the hell out of me. A running navara couldnt do it and that small thing zapped it to life.

[MB]

Nah mate that was Rustynails-Nickos one, was cool hey!


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[mudnut]

Very good, thanks chaps.

[MB]

Do you reckon I should take mine back Craig mate? I thought 12.7ish meant fully charged on 12v batteries or are these little packs different somehow?


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[Plasnart]

Marko. Was that the same one you started that big dam pump motor with? That impressed the hell out of me. A running navara couldnt do it and that small thing zapped it to life.

Exact reason I went and bought one. Would not have believed it if I didnt see it. Such a small device, but that punch!

[the evil twin]

Just measured mine too after charging with it registering 100% and only reads 12.28. Not sure if I have a dud but started the tractor last time at 80% no problems.


Thats too low, mate... for a LiFePo 90 to 100% S.O.C. no load voltage should be up in the 13's or even very low 14's.

Did you measure that voltage at the "jump start" terminals or at one of the other pairs?
The "jump" terminals are 'hot' off the battery pack but on a lot of the various packs those 'aux' and 'test' terminals will have circuitry on them and you may not be seeing the battery itself

[MB]

Thanks mate, yeah I just stuck the multimeter straight into the units jump starter plug connection under the rubber flap.


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[TPC]

Thats too low, mate... for a LiFePo 90 to 100% S.O.C. no load voltage should be up in the 13's or even very low 14's.

Did you measure that voltage at the "jump start" terminals or at one of the other pairs?
The "jump" terminals are 'hot' off the battery pack but on a lot of the various packs those 'aux' and 'test' terminals will have circuitry on them and you may not be seeing the battery itself

I would have thought the maximum voltage would be 12.6V out of these.
I believe they are using 3.6V cells that have a maximum voltage of 4.2V and have 3 in series for a maximum of 12.6V fully charged.

[the evil twin]

Thanks mate, yeah I just stuck the multimeter straight into the units jump starter plug connection under the rubber flap.

Hmmm... OK... what sort/brand/part # pack did you buy?

I'm not convinced there is something wrong yet just curious
Mine has no output on the jump terminals unless I go to 'override' IE the pack can tell if there is a battery connected or not.
You could try putting it on Charge and see if the voltage changes then leave it a while and check volts again even tho it says 100% on the indication

[the evil twin]

I would have thought the maximum voltage would be 12.6V out of these.
I believe they are using 3.6V cells that have a maximum voltage of 4.2V and have 3 in series for a maximum of 12.6V fully charged.

Dunno... could be that some use 3 and some 4 maybe.
Mine definitely goes up around 14 when fully charged and for interest I just confirmed 13.6 at the terminals (last charged 2 months ago) with the lamp on as a load albeit a small one.

I also wouldn't have thought they would use the overcharge (4.2V) for the normal charging of the packs but maybe they do on some.
As mentioned, on mine I have to go to override which takes out the fault diagnosis and reverse protection circuits.

I asked MB what he bought so might shed some light on it.

[TPC]

Dunno... could be that some use 3 and some 4 maybe.
Mine definitely goes up around 14 when fully charged and for interest I just confirmed 13.7 at the terminals (last charged 2 months ago) with the lamp on as a load albeit a small one
I asked MB what he bought so might shed some light on it.

You may be right about some using 3 and some using 4, mine is a Laser brand and it uses 3.
Had a look online to look for specs of other brands but most don't have how many cells they use.

[the evil twin]

Apols TPC... I amended my post but got distracted and forgot to submit before you replied.

Agree the online specs are poor and indeed claims made for some are rubbish.
3 versus 4 would explain the price disparity among some of them that is for sure.

The model I bought for work (and one for myself) were around a couple of hunjy $ at the time and were the biggest I could get that were still legal for commercial air travel

[MB]

Hmmm... OK... what sort/brand/part # pack did you buy?

I'm not convinced there is something wrong yet just curious
Mine has no output on the jump terminals unless I go to 'override' IE the pack can tell if there is a battery connected or not.
You could try putting it on Charge and see if the voltage changes then leave it a while and check volts again even tho it says 100% on the indication

Cheers ET, I’ll have to try that soon mate, it’s not with me atm. It does have a little box thingy on the jumper + lead line that from memory on instructions required specific timing press I think during a jump.


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[MB]

...........http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/11/15.jpg


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[mudnut]

That little box should contain some schottky diodes for protection against spikes and reverse connection, hopefully.

[the evil twin]

Powerall is supposedly one of the top brands in this market and because of that it is also one of the most copied/counterfeit.
Strangely for a Yank company their specs are very vague but, pfft, thats life these days.

If that one is a knockoff they went to great lengths to make it look genuine.
So lets assume it is genuine...then... you could maybe flick Powerall an email query or try and see if their online warranty rego will accept the device.

Like I said before I'm not convinced yours is bad just curious and if it still works then who cares anyway right?

[the evil twin]

That little box should contain some schottky diodes for protection against spikes and reverse connection, hopefully.

Yeah, I think it is a spike preventer as well but possibly not rev pol...

While reading up on the unit I recall the manuf has a 'version 3' lead for reverse polarity protection on his latest kits which looks different and also an advice/warning for customers with Ver 2 or earlier to consider upgrading as the early version don't have rev pol protection

[mudnut]

I do so want to try reverse pole it now. Bugger the consequences!!!

[the evil twin]

I do so want to try reverse pole it now. Bugger the consequences!!!

Ooooooohhhhh.... sparkles... oh so pretty, oh so pretty :redface:

[MB]

Back to base now, Cheers Gents! Repco 50% off deal for flat batteries maybe suckered me :-)


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[Avo]

pretty disappointed i didn't see a glow in the sky

[MB]

Mmmmmmm, checked it just now again and still reading 12.28 although strangely enough its on 80% now according to the lights. Plugged it in for another charge as ET suggested and started reading 12.35 instantly. Will see what it reads later. Does appear to be discharging itself :-(


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[mudnut]

That rise voltage is a temporary residual effect of the higher charging voltage. All batteries get that, and will drop to their charged voltage fairly quickly.

[the evil twin]

Mmmmmmm, checked it just now again and still reading 12.28 although strangely enough its on 80% now according to the lights. Plugged it in for another charge as ET suggested and started reading 12.35 instantly. Will see what it reads later. Does appear to be discharging itself :-(



Yeah, let it sit on charge for a while.

Lithiums are a very different beast to Lead Acid.
For one thing they can't charge 'low' cells like a Lead Acid will IE once any Cell in series gets to max charge the charging flow virtually stops.
For that reason they have to have balancing circuits for the Cells.
Thats why some batteries of similar rating are more expensive and many manufacturers are selling versions they call "smart" as they have the circuits internal to the Battery.

Anyhooow... let the sucker sit there on charge for a while and see what you get.

[MB]

Cheers ET mate,
Dropped back into Repco a few weeks ago to discuss and they were to contact their supplier for standard specs info requested etc... No call back as yet but home tests kindly suggested above are over time showing issues I believe:

After 48hr charge:
(12hr later residual drop off test check)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/11/130.jpg
Following pics are as evenly taken as possible over the last few weeks:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/11/131.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/11/132.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/11/133.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/11/134.jpg
I do now believe it’s warranted evidence for a store credit on oil, filters or the like.
Time to invest in your recommendation from the beginning on other helpful threads :-)




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[MB]

Final test:
Just used it for the last 30 minutes from 12.27V to put 50% charge needed back on my iphone :-(
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/11/135.jpg


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[Yeti's Beast]

Lithium batteries should have higher volts than that
We have a 200 ah Lithium at Work and it still has 13.2 volts after 12 months on the shelf


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[Plasnart]

Cheers ET mate,
Dropped back into Repco a few weeks ago to discuss and they were to contact their supplier for standard specs info requested etc... No call back as yet but home tests kindly suggested above are over time showing issues I believe:

I do now believe it’s warranted evidence for a store credit on oil, filters or the like.
Time to invest in your recommendation from the beginning on other helpful threads :-)




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FYI MB here's mine. 4 months since last charge down to 3 bars on power bar, still ample volts.

73736

[MB]

FWIW, Local Repco has never called me back about querying their Powerall supplier. Unit was fully charged up again (5 LED indicators) and left to sit without usage for say 7 weeks. Here later it reads truly +11.96V (4 LED indicators) http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/01/15.jpg
Have just finally purchased one of ET’s kindly recommended ‘Powertech LifePo4’ models off Ebay. Did end up choosing the slightly larger 600A jobbie as I only need it for local work unlike ET I believe can sometimes need to air travel for projects with his 450A ripper still !


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[PeeBee]

I checked my 800a unit last night after having it left uncharged from the AB Donk Party and it was sitting at 14.21V - have to be happy with that. I also have used it twice to jump start a V8 petrol engine and did it with ease - not charged afterwards either. Great unit the Wuldmar. I did have a small 'brick' style booster, about 50mm cube, ran off a 30V cell, but it was a gimmick - difficult to check charge or work out its state of charge and didn't have the grunt it claimed either.

[MB]

Repco have been great, full refund given on the failing ‘Powerall’ with depleting volt pictures from here shown. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/01/139.jpg I’m sure it was just an unfortunate failure but nonetheless ET’s kindly suggested version has arrived. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/01/140.jpg A much bigger unit, says 100% outa the box, just gotta learn how to fire it up now, Cheers ET again!


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[the evil twin]

A much bigger unit, says 100% outa the box, just gotta learn how to fire it up now, Cheers ET again!



Get AB to hold the wires, then just start pressing buttons, loudest screams is the Jump Start setting

[MB]

Donks & their batteries around the block have been thankfully faithful of late. Super happy with the kindly recommended ‘Powertech LifePo4’ thank you again ET good bloke!!
Ripper thing from new has sat stagnant at the ready, still 100% its brain says, Cheers again :-) !!!!!!!!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/04/205.jpg


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[PeeBee]

Had a bit of a disappointing event with the Wuldmar 800amp unit. Main battery dropped a cell, fell to 10V at the battery. Plugged in the wuldmar and unfortunately all it did was equalise the starter voltage, then didn't have the grunt to turn the engine over. Checked the wuldmar and it was down to 11 volts in a matter of seconds. Anyway, maybe this is the extreme.

[Plasnart]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/04/303.jpg


Can someone please remind me how this thing gets recharged? I've got the ciggy plug cable so I can do it in the car tomorrow, but can I do it via USB from computer? If so which port? The 4 USB ports are labelled "Output" so don't think that can be done?

Not sure what I did when I first got it!

[PeeBee]

Mine does not charger thru th USB, this is output only. Use the round DC cig lighter plug. I cant remember if mine came with a 240V charger or not - did yours? I have to contact the manufacturer as my USB outlets don't appear to output for charging of the iphone - usually I get a ding sound to say the phone is charging by other sources. I have the 800amp unit.

[Plasnart]

Mine does not charger thru th USB, this is output only. Use the round DC cig lighter plug. I cant remember if mine came with a 240V charger or not - did yours? I have to contact the manufacturer as my USB outlets don't appear to output for charging of the iphone - usually I get a ding sound to say the phone is charging by other sources. I have the 800amp unit.

No mine didn't come with a 240V charger so must be ciggy plug only. I think I hooked the Wuldmar unit via USB to computer when I unwrapped it originally! Doh! Anyway she's flat a tack so I'll charge it in the car tomorrow.

I'm wondering what setting I put the unit on to charge the phone. 12V, 16V, 19V?? The 240V plug I usually use at home has an output of 5V. So do I just choose 12V from the Wuldmar unit or could that be too much for the phone? Might just stick to charging the phone through the inverter with the 5v phone plug.

Bloody instructions with this Wuldmar unit were atrocious Chinglish and not much help at all, plus I can't find them now so probably threw them out!

[PeeBee]

Use the 5v output plug. The 19v is more suited to laptops and camera batteries I believe.

OK, correction to previous post. I unpacked my battery bank and found a factory supplied USB to Iphone mini cable. I plugged this into the iphone, tried all 3 jacks, nothing. I then pushed the small black button between the 12v/5a output plug and the battery jumped plugs - bingo, turned the charge 'on' to the phone. so happily charging the iphone now.. Can't find any instructions with mine, but being a typical engineer, probably thru them out without reading! I suspect the standard iphoe cable will work with this device as well.

Regards charge capacity, mine sits at 4 out of 5 stars on the side. When charging from cig lighter the 5th light blinks. I can start a V8 petrol engine maybe 6 times before it needs a recharge. recommendation is to keep it topped up though from personal experience.

[Plasnart]

Use the 5v output plug. The 19v is more suited to laptops and camera batteries I believe.

OK, correction to previous post. I unpacked my battery bank and found a factory supplied USB to Iphone mini cable. I plugged this into the iphone, tried all 3 jacks, nothing. I then pushed the small black button between the 12v/5a output plug and the battery jumped plugs - bingo, turned the charge 'on' to the phone. so happily charging the iphone now.. Can't find any instructions with mine, but being a typical engineer, probably thru them out without reading! I suspect the standard iphoe cable will work with this device as well.

Regards charge capacity, mine sits at 4 out of 5 stars on the side. When charging from cig lighter the 5th light blinks. I can start a V8 petrol engine maybe 6 times before it needs a recharge. recommendation is to keep it topped up though from personal experience.

Glad you've sorted yours PB! My previous comment about 5V output was relating to the 240V AC to 5V DC plug I use in power points at home. I forgot to check the USB output rating on the jump starter unit but just did and find they (x4) are all 5V. Bonus! So I could use the "octopus" lead that came with the unit with USB at one end (plug into jump starter) and 4 different plugs at the other end for different devices. But do I set the jump starter at 12V, 16V or 19V when charging the phone, or does this setting not matter? Complete newby with this unit, actually never used it in anger before.

[PeeBee]

The USBs are preset at 5V output, only difference is amperage. so if one end is in USB then regardless of the output plug to phone you will get 5V. You unit sounds different to mine as I simply has 19V and 12V outlets, so in theory you could be charging from the powerbank with both at the same time. Regards what voltage for charging the phone, cant you just use the 5V outlet with a suitable plug ? I would check what voltage your phone needs to charge at and then attach the appropriate plug to the lead perhaps? If the phone charges at say 12v charge off 12v setting, if 17V I would use 19v, but if you connect via USB outlet the other 12/16/19V does not matter. I think thats what you are asking????

[Plasnart]

The USBs are preset at 5V output, only difference is amperage. so if one end is in USB then regardless of the output plug to phone you will get 5V. You unit sounds different to mine as I simply has 19V and 12V outlets, so in theory you could be charging from the powerbank with both at the same time. Regards what voltage for charging the phone, cant you just use the 5V outlet with a suitable plug ? I would check what voltage your phone needs to charge at and then attach the appropriate plug to the lead perhaps? If the phone charges at say 12v charge off 12v setting, if 17V I would use 19v, but if you connect via USB outlet the other 12/16/19V does not matter. I think thats what you are asking????

Haha yeah I think so mate! The phone charges at 5V (240V plug that came with it has 5V output). So I'll just set the unit to 12V as that's the lowest setting, plug the USB cable that came with the power pack into the 5V outlet and leave it at that. If it the phone gets warm after a bit I'll charge it with the inverter with the phone's original 240V plug.

[MB]

Honest Product Review:
ET is flat out on the money; “LiFePo4” ‘Powertech’ bargain!
At least utilised twice weekly here, thank you mate!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/08/601.jpg
Daedong 100hp 4.2TD sucks out only at best 8% [emoji106][emoji106]


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[MudRunnerTD]

Honest Product Review:
ET is flat out on the money; “LiFePo4” ‘Powertech’ bargain!
At least utilised twice weekly here, thank you mate!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2018/08/601.jpg
Daedong 100hp 4.2TD sucks out only at best 8% [emoji106][emoji106]


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Hey MB do you have a link to that? ETs link is broken. I can only find a 270amp one on ebay for $170?

[MB]

Can’t remember which ebay mob I bought through mate but it is the 600amp ‘Powertech’ jobbie as I don’t need it for air travel. IIRC Evil Twin uses the 450amp one for work travel with great success still.
Think mine was $220-$240ish


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[the evil twin]

I got them at Jaycar.
All the ones I have (for work and also a personal one) are still going gangbusters
They are now discontinued, but if you can find old store stock they were selling at a bargain of about $140 IIRC.

BUT... these Units are the absolute shizz for high grunt applications and at $249 aren't a great buy https://itechworld.com.au/products/jump-starter-900a-20000mah-backup-power-bank-charger-portable-for-car-boat-12v

FWIW as I have no actual experience with these units here is the Jaycar replacement https://www.jaycar.com.au/12v-700a-jump-starter-powerbank-with-laptop-power/p/MB3758?utm_campaign=redirect&utm_source=MB3758r&utm_medium=web
BUT I would get the Itech one before I would buy the 'new' Jaycar one.

[PeeBee]

My Wuldmar 800amp unit died suddenly yesterday, pretty annoyed as expensive to buy. I have just replaced it with an ITECH 900a unit, currently on special for $199 including shipping. 900a burst so should be enough for the V8's I have.

[altech]

Hi Guys, I have one of these that I got for my boat if needed , sold boat and have use it many times to start the 4.5 patrol as car not being used much. Works for me , maybe not for diesel patrols.
77076

[rusty_nail]

My Wuldmar 800amp unit died suddenly yesterday, pretty annoyed as expensive to buy. I have just replaced it with an ITECH 900a unit, currently on special for $199 including shipping. 900a burst so should be enough for the V8's I have.Did U hit them up for warranty mate?

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[PeeBee]

Did U hit them up for warranty mate?

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Nah, could not find the receipt or where I bought it from, so did the engineer thing and pulled it apart but it all looked fine, nothing damaged to the naked eye apart from what I had destroyed getting it apart. It was interestin g seeing the battery pack setup, like metallised paper, stunk like crazy though, no doubt the lithium. Anyway, still waiting on the new one to arrive, must follow them up.

[mudnut]

Kermit is at it again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JN8A2nIMUWA

I watch this channel quite a bit. This guy tests heaps of different products with no bias at all. Interesting to note the peak current produced compared to the claimed outputs.