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oncedisturbed
17th February 2012, 04:27 PM
Here are some links to the service manuals for WARN Winches 6k to 12.

Cheers to AB for loading them for us so there are available to everyone.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/warn-manual-6k-8k-xd9-1.pdf

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/warn-manual-9k-12k-1.pdf

MudRunnerTD
17th February 2012, 04:59 PM
Awesome! Thank you

Raja
11th June 2012, 05:01 PM
Here are some links to the service manuals for WARN Winches 6k to 12.

Cheers to AB for loading them for us so there are available to everyone.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/warn-manual-6k-8k-xd9.pdf

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/warn-manual-9k-12k.pdf

Thanks very much for these . I think I have one of these on my HD
Can anyone find anything like this for Warn M10000 ??

oncedisturbed
18th June 2012, 10:26 AM
It looks like that particular winch is no longer made by Warn Industries, this is the best I have been able to find on them

http://warnserviceparts.com/m10000.asp
http://www.doc-txt.com/Warn-Winch-manual.pdf

Woof
19th June 2012, 01:47 AM
Well done mate, thanks again

optic
23rd July 2012, 10:57 AM
Thanks for the above info.
Looks like im i strife as the head size is 16 or 17mm square, bolt dia 10mm.
I do recall that they were square headed bolts in this winch which i have had for a long time.
Near enough to 20 years i would think.
Ill get some 10mm bolts and rebuild the head to suit the T slot.
The other concern i have is, i had this winch mounted to the inside of an 8 inch channel bull bar home made and never bent, trees and all.
It was that heavy i had to up grade the springs in the gutlux.
The winch was mounted against the inside of the channel and a direct pull against the T bolts.
So the forces were in a straight line against the mounting housing.
It is now going to be mounted 90 deg to the mounting points in the cradle.
My concern is will it break under strain as the mounting brackets are only ally?
I would hate to find out the hard way in the middle of no where.
In any case thanks for the above info.
Cheers.

Conradk
25th November 2012, 06:39 AM
The manuals are great. Next question, where can I find a really good winch operating guide. Do's and don'ts not only for safety but also operation and general maintenance, cable winding techniques, etc.

Conradk
25th November 2012, 06:50 AM
Mmmm, must be having a slow night. After posting this have just tripped over a basic guide to winching techniques in another thread.

alexx
18th April 2014, 09:25 PM
Thank You!

MudRunnerTD
18th April 2014, 09:45 PM
Mmmm, must be having a slow night. After posting this have just tripped over a basic guide to winching techniques in another thread.

Sorry Conrad, I know we are way way too late but you hit this at 6am back then local time and obviously got lost n the soup. Thread just been bumped so I figure might as well embed the thread you need with all the safety info you need for winch recovery.

Stay Safe, Play Safe THINK

Recovery-The-Fundamentals (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?1984-Recovery-The-Fundamentals)

MudRunnerTD
1st September 2016, 02:13 AM
Here are some links to the service manuals for WARN Winches 6k to 12.

Cheers to AB for loading them for us so there are available to everyone.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/warn-manual-6k-8k-xd9-1.pdf

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/warn-manual-9k-12k-1.pdf

Cuppa here is everything you need to know mate.

Cuppa
1st September 2016, 09:19 AM
Thanks Darren. That's helpful. Have had a brief read through. I'll check out access with the bullbar when my back allows.
It does appear that it would just need the gears cleaning & re-greasing, as I imagine it has done very little work during it's life & the grease has probably gone hard. The brake mechanism & motor shouldn't need touching. The main issue for me (if there is one) will, I think, be getting the winch off & back on to the vehicle.

MudRunnerTD
1st September 2016, 09:31 AM
Thanks Darren. That's helpful. Have had a brief read through. I'll check out access with the bullbar when my back allows.
It does appear that it would just need the gears cleaning & re-greasing, as I imagine it has done very little work during it's life & the grease has probably gone hard. The brake mechanism & motor shouldn't need touching. The main issue for me (if there is one) will, I think, be getting the winch off & back on to the vehicle.

You could throw a rope around each end and tie it up with the rope out the top. Unbolt it and the ripe will take the weight. Unbolt it and lower it down.

Even if you get it off and serviced, lining someone up to give you a lift back in will be simple enough. Does it have wire rope or synthetic rope? Un spool the wire rope and remove before you take the winch off will strip half its weight.

Cuppa
1st September 2016, 09:49 AM
You could throw a rope around each end and tie it up with the rope out the top. Unbolt it and the ripe will take the weight. Unbolt it and lower it down.

Even if you get it off and serviced, lining someone up to give you a lift back in will be simple enough. Does it have wire rope or synthetic rope? Un spool the wire rope and remove before you take the winch off will strip half its weight.

Synthetic. I replaced the wire rope to save weight ages ago. From memory taking it off & replacing the rollers with an alloy hause was worth over 13 Kg.

mudski
1st September 2016, 10:17 AM
You could throw a rope around each end and tie it up with the rope out the top. Unbolt it and the ripe will take the weight. Unbolt it and lower it down.

Even if you get it off and serviced, lining someone up to give you a lift back in will be simple enough. Does it have wire rope or synthetic rope? Un spool the wire rope and remove before you take the winch off will strip half its weight.

Yeah I used a motor bike tie down and loop it around the top of the bar and then around the drum of the winch through the top of the bar, and then lower it down on a crate by lightly pressing on the cam lock on the tie down.

threedogs
1st September 2016, 12:56 PM
Thanks for the above info.
Looks like im i strife as the head size is 16 or 17mm square, bolt dia 10mm.
I do recall that they were square headed bolts in this winch which i have had for a long time.
Near enough to 20 years i would think.
Ill get some 10mm bolts and rebuild the head to suit the T slot.
The other concern i have is, i had this winch mounted to the inside of an 8 inch channel bull bar home made and never bent, trees and all.
It was that heavy i had to up grade the springs in the gutlux.
The winch was mounted against the inside of the channel and a direct pull against the T bolts.
So the forces were in a straight line against the mounting housing.
It is now going to be mounted 90 deg to the mounting points in the cradle.
My concern is will it break under strain as the mounting brackets are only ally?
I would hate to find out the hard way in the middle of no where.
In any case thanks for the above info.
Cheers.

Are these the bolts you're after???


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Warn-8274-warn-high-mount-winch-bolt-nut-kit-/112092027817?hash=item1a19349ba9:g:5I8AAOSwbYZXa9J P

threedogs
1st September 2016, 01:00 PM
Synthetic. I replaced the wire rope to save weight ages ago. From memory taking it off & replacing the rollers with an alloy hause was worth over 13 Kg.

If you kept your old SWR take it to a place like Nobles,,,all lifting and safety
and get them to swage eyelets on each end, makes a very good rated,,long
extension cable.

threedogs
1st September 2016, 01:35 PM
oncedisturbed Hi Jase whats the difference between the XD and the XP is it just motor size ??

Cuppa
1st September 2016, 01:38 PM
If you kept your old SWR take it to a place like Nobles,,,all lifting and safety
and get them to swage eyelets on each end, makes a very good rated,,long
extension cable.

SWR - Wire rope?
I think I offered it to other’s here but no-one took me up on it. It was in perfect nick. After sitting coiled neatly inside a bucket for a couple of years I finally chucked it in the skip I hired to clear up all the metal stuff laying around our property before we moved.

Winnie
1st September 2016, 01:41 PM
If you kept your old SWR take it to a place like Nobles,,,all lifting and safety
and get them to swage eyelets on each end, makes a very good rated,,long
extension cable.

Better off buying a synthetic rope to use as an extension. The cable weighs a ton and is bulky to store.

threedogs
1st September 2016, 01:42 PM
Yeah steel wire rope.lol

Have anyone done a "HOW TO" about pressurizing a winch.
Just remembered I have a spare winch here to get it right

threedogs
1st September 2016, 01:48 PM
Better off buying a synthetic rope to use as an extension. The cable weighs a ton and is bulky to store.

Bit old school now I think about it, but seems a waste to throw it out,
But saves buying some plasma for $170. Easy to store lie flat on the roof or It will coil up
inside my faux wheel. I'll keep it

Cuppa
1st September 2016, 04:31 PM
Better off buying a synthetic rope to use as an extension. The cable weighs a ton and is bulky to store.

Yep, not that I’ve ever needed it (yet) I’ve got 30m synthetic rope on the winch & a second 30m still in it’s plastic bag behind the seats. The SWR :) did come in useful when I used the winch to haul a large dead pig onto the back of a neigbours ute though.

sooty_10
1st September 2016, 08:09 PM
Yeah steel wire rope.lol

Have anyone done a "HOW TO" about pressurizing a winch.
Just remembered I have a spare winch here to get it right
I have simply drilled and tapped a screw in barbed fitting into my motor housing ensuring to miss the field magnets. Then run some hose to an old airhorn low pressure pump I had lying around. When I turn on the winch isolation it turns on the compressor. Its pretty noisy but still blows air, so I may even put a separate switch for just the air compressor.

Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk

jay see
1st September 2016, 08:15 PM
I have simply drilled and tapped a screw in barbed fitting into my motor housing ensuring to miss the field magnets. Then run some hose to an old airhorn low pressure pump I had lying around. When I turn on the winch isolation it turns on the compressor. Its pretty noisy but still blows air, so I may even put a separate switch for just the air compressor.

Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk
Clever boy..

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

MudRunnerTD
1st September 2016, 08:20 PM
If you kept your old SWR take it to a place like Nobles,,,all lifting and safety
and get them to swage eyelets on each end, makes a very good rated,,long
extension cable.

Nah bugger that! Junk it! Not a waste, it's simply obsolete. You have replaced it for safety reasons then you want to put it back into the recover. No way. It's junk. Recycle bin is where it belongs.

Buying 50m of synthetic rope for your winch and cutting off 20m for an extension strap for the win. It's lite, it's safe.

Buy 60m and cut it in half. Half on the winch and half as an extension. After a fair it of use swap them. You now have anew winch rope and a spare as an extension.

Junk the wire.

mudski
1st September 2016, 08:37 PM
Wheres the best place to buy new rope these days?

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

AB
1st September 2016, 08:50 PM
Nah bugger that! Junk it! Not a waste, it's simply obsolete. You have replaced it for safety reasons then you want to put it back into the recover. No way. It's junk. Recycle bin is where it belongs. Buying 50m of synthetic rope for your winch and cutting off 20m for an extension strap for the win. It's lite, it's safe. Buy 60m and cut it in half. Half on the winch and half as an extension. After a fair it of use swap them. You now have anew winch rope and a spare as an extension. Junk the wire. Have to agree 3D, the days of wire are gone mate and so they should with the strength and easiness of rope for splicing for extensions and breakages, etc.

There's a video somewhere I put up when I did mine and if done correctly is a stronger permanent fix then the rest of your rope.

Easy to handle, easy to store extensions, happy days!

BigRAWesty
1st September 2016, 10:12 PM
Wheres the best place to buy new rope these days?

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
Ebay..
I actually haven't seen it in any shops..

mudski
1st September 2016, 10:28 PM
Yeah its been a while since i bought new rope, the current rope is a bit worse for wear but i keep putting it off.

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oncedisturbed
2nd September 2016, 12:49 AM
oncedisturbed Hi Jase whats the difference between the XD and the XP is it just motor size ??

To be honest, not entirely sure but I believe it is motor / gear variations between the 2.

I can't even remember what model mine is lol


Never underestimate the power of the tap, let it flow through you.

sooty_10
2nd September 2016, 08:32 AM
oncedisturbed Hi Jase whats the difference between the XD and the XP is it just motor size ??
It is literally the 6hp motor. The xd has a 4.6 and xp has 6hp. Gearbox ratios are identical and drum diameters are the same etc.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/6.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/7.jpg

I now run a 6hp warn motor on my xd9000. Required modification to the bullbar mount to fit between chassis rails and other wise was direct bolt on.

Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk

threedogs
2nd September 2016, 02:34 PM
Wheres the best place to buy new rope these days?

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

You can buy 30mtrs for around $119. thats about the cheapest Ive seen it.
I have DYNEEMA which I brought off Big Balls when Liam had helm.
Not sure if whats out there is as strong Dyneema but the properties are similar
from memory I have 12mm on the winch drum x 30mtrs

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/X-BULL-Dyneema-SK75-Winch-Rope-10MM-x-30M-Hook-Synthetic-Car-Tow-Recovery-Cable-/172269885842?hash=item281c15d992:g:6m8AAOSwzLlXgw~ u

threedogs
2nd September 2016, 04:54 PM
I think Ill hang my 30mtrs of winch cable up in Man Land
so ppl can see how it used to be done in the old days.
I originally had it made up to showcase a device for holding cable
on your back door, MudRunnerTD may remember them , the ones
I saw were mainly on short 40s and made by Kaymar.
Ive been fabricating gear for a long time. lol


sooty_10 I can remove my winch from the front but I needed to space the winch up
when they fitted it , it was way too low for the hawse fairlead outlet

threedogs
3rd September 2016, 09:17 AM
Found a pic from one of MB posts, you could buy these cable holder
that would fit to the RWOD similar to a Hi-lift jack, ,was a safe way
to carry spare cable, as I said Kay mar sold them,it was for 5/16 swr
not so much the Tirfor cable, Ill drag mine out later, I made a heap of things to
hang off the rear door with the wheel lol

threedogs
3rd September 2016, 10:35 AM
Synthetic. I replaced the wire rope to save weight ages ago. From memory taking it off & replacing the rollers with an alloy hause was worth over 13 Kg.

You could use a block and tackle from a roof beam, bit of overkill
but it will get it out for you, or hire an engine crane lol

Cuppa
3rd September 2016, 02:19 PM
You could use a block and tackle from a roof beam, bit of overkill
but it will get it out for you, or hire an engine crane lol

I have received a PM from a member with the same vehicle & bullbar & winch that I have & he tells me that even with the splash guard removed from the bottom of the bullbar that the bullbar still needs to be unbolted & partially removed to get the winch in & out. :( Unfortunately with a clearspan style shed the roof beams are beyond my reach. If I do the job I'll have to build something to support the bullbar & winch. Thats a lot of stuffing around just to re-grease something.

MudRunnerTD
3rd September 2016, 02:33 PM
I have received a PM from a member with the same vehicle & bullbar & winch that I have & he tells me that even with the splash guard removed from the bottom of the bullbar that the bullbar still needs to be unbolted & partially removed to get the winch in & out. :( Unfortunately with a clearspan style shed the roof beams are beyond my reach. If I do the job I'll have to build something to support the bullbar & winch. Thats a lot of stuffing around just to re-grease something.

I had a Nissan bar previously with my guiv before my little crash and had my winch fitted to it. I definitely did not need to unbolt the bar. It's a bit of a bugger but I fitted and removed a couple of times my winch from my Nissan Factory bar alone in my driveway without any ropes.

I would be very surprised if you hade yo take the bar off.

Although.... That would make the whole thing really bloody simple Cuppa! The factory bar is easy to unbolt. You could lift it off with the winch pretty easily mate. Unbolt and slide out.

MudRunnerTD
3rd September 2016, 02:36 PM
Go to your local all tools or bunnings and buy a 2000kg sling for $20 or less. Tie it to your rafter at a convenient location and hang a block and tackle from it. In my old shed I left the sling in place permanently and just used a shackle to hook on a half ton block and tackle. Winner mate it will be bloody handy for you.

sooty_10
3rd September 2016, 02:59 PM
What bullbar is it Cuppa ? Any of the factory nissan ones I've ever seen definitely didn't need bullbar removal. May be different with a td42ti and the tall radiator.

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threedogs
3rd September 2016, 04:04 PM
Doesnt removing the grill give you that extra bit of room needed
easy enough to whip up an A frame from some 4x2s

Cuppa
3rd September 2016, 04:58 PM
Go to your local all tools or bunnings and buy a 2000kg sling for $20 or less. Tie it to your rafter at a convenient location and hang a block and tackle from it. In my old shed I left the sling in place permanently and just used a shackle to hook on a half ton block and tackle. Winner mate it will be bloody handy for you.

No accessible rafter, convenient or otherwise. Clearspan roof 5’5 metres high. Not gonna buy a block & tackle just for this one off job. Might be able to use an old ‘comealong’ I’ve got though I think TD’s suggestion of an A frame would be required if doing it myself........ unless....... the old shed has accessible rafters but very limited space around the vehicle. Will have to suss out if it’s do-able there.

Cuppa
3rd September 2016, 05:06 PM
May be different with a td42ti and the tall radiator.



Not sure Sooty, but that may well be it. The person who told me has an ’06 DX ute with the TD42i & the same winch.

mudski
3rd September 2016, 05:46 PM
Doesnt removing the grill give you that extra bit of room needed
easy enough to whip up an A frame from some 4x2s
The grill stops at the top of the bar John. The winch will be removed from underneath the bar.


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threedogs
3rd September 2016, 05:49 PM
My winch comes off by lifting it up I dare say yours would to
But being original 4.2 the radiator may be in a different position

mudski
3rd September 2016, 05:55 PM
My winch comes off by lifting it up I dare say yours would to
But being original 4.2 the radiator may be in a different position
Yeah nah definitely drops down. The top of the winch is covered by the bar. Except for the access hole.
The Td, not the Ti one, radiator is the same as the ZD one. So nothings changed there.

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MudRunnerTD
3rd September 2016, 07:28 PM
No accessible rafter, convenient or otherwise. Clearspan roof 5’5 metres high. Not gonna buy a block & tackle just for this one off job. Might be able to use an old ‘comealong’ I’ve got though I think TD’s suggestion of an A frame would be required if doing it myself........ unless....... the old shed has accessible rafters but very limited space around the vehicle. Will have to suss out if it’s do-able there.

Surely your new shed is a portal frame? Have you lined the roof or something? My old shed was a 20m x 12m with 3.9m wall height. Was awesome! Yes it was a long way up hence leaving the sling for future use. How do you not have a rafter supporting your roof purlins holding the roof sheets?

I use my sling and block for a few different tasks over the years. The Triumph head stem hung from it for about a year. I used it to lift out the motor of my ride on. I lifted a 308 out of a commodore with it too. I certainly used it to lift the front bar and winch off my GQ and used it to refit when I was ready too. Easy task done alone with that setup mate.

Given your on the land I'm stunned you don't already own a block and tackle or see a future need to be honest. Was bloody handy in my shed for sure and they are cheap as chips to buy.

Cuppa
3rd September 2016, 08:04 PM
I s'pose portal frame is probably the correct term? Wall height is 3.8mm but can’t get the car close to a wall. The main ‘beams’ across the roof are all c section & ‘engineered’ to do their job & little more. Not sure I’d want to be hanging much off them even if I could get up there to put up a sling. Have since looked at price of block & tackle & have been surprised at how cheap they are, I was thinking they’d be a few hundred bucks. Would certainly be a lot lighter to use the my old cast come along.

68885

MudRunnerTD
3rd September 2016, 08:51 PM
Yeah I'd have no hesitation putting a sling around that C channel rafter mid span. No probs mate. The down force wind rating alone would far exceed anything your going to hang off there bud.

You can get a plate that bolts in at the ridge line with a big hole as s lifting point. Those brackets at the top of each column give it a heap of strength. Who built the shed? Looks like s JH Stephens shed.

Cuppa
3rd September 2016, 10:35 PM
Nah, it’s a Ranbuild shed.

threedogs
4th September 2016, 03:53 PM
A plate 600mm squ should allow enough to lift what a 35kg winch
take off the weight of the SWR So you only need support what 28kg tops

So this winch has to come out from underneath,
then frabricate a frame to fit onto the bullbar
easy enough to do, just saying lol

is the winch lifting up or down to remove.
with the plasma on it it would be lucky to be 28kg
My sheds a Stratco and Ive no doubt the c section span
would hold a winch ,
I used it to lift a 285 mud and steel rim when testing that
wheel lifter I designed did it easy thats closer to 50kg

LAST EDIT ::I used 6mm plasma to lift it

threedogs
4th September 2016, 04:25 PM
Cuppa I have a sling I made from 6mm plasma I just looped
over the beam [C section],it supported my weight easy. 88kg

Cuppa
4th September 2016, 06:55 PM
The issue is going to be getting up to the roof beam Would need to hire a scissor lift - twice. Once to get the pattern for a plate & again to put it up there. Weight lifted would also need to include bullbar btw. Then purchase a sling or some plasma rope, plus a block & tackle. All starts to make a for a ‘minor’ job which might be cheaper to give to a local 4wd shop? Sigh. I’m thinking the A frame idea may be the go.

jack
4th September 2016, 08:19 PM
I've been in Cuppas shed and a scissor lift is the only way to reach the roof beams. I wouldn't feel safe on one at that height, have enough trouble climbing scaffolding.

MudRunnerTD
4th September 2016, 09:37 PM
Nah no way guys. Seriously you are over thinking this cuppa.

So when they built the shed someone stood on the roof and screwed the sheets down. A couple of blokes probably. 6 blokes could run laps on your roof and probably not even get a vibration!! That's 500kgs to 600kgs easy! Anywhere on the roof! Seriously. Go and hire an extension ladder. Or buy one. Install the sling and leave it there. Make sure it's long enough you can reach it from a step ladder for future use. Get on with the job. This is a NO BRAINER!

What are you going to do when you need to change a light globe or clean your gutters mate? Hire a scissor lift? Really!

MudRunnerTD
4th September 2016, 09:43 PM
This is not a House of Cards. It's an Engineered Clear Span Steel Portal Frame Shed that meets the current Australian Building Code. Collapse is not Immanent! It really will support your weight and mine standing together with a few mates.

Cuppa
4th September 2016, 10:12 PM
Darren, I accept the roof is strong as you suggest & the beams will take the weight of a winch & bullbar ok, but I’m not getting up on the roof or working at 5.5m on a ladder. I have a shorter ladder which just gets me to the gutters to clean them. We used a scissor lift to put up the lights, hung to a level where my stepladder can reach This is way below where a sling would need to be attached.

You know, heights never used to bother me at all, but as I get older they & I are less compatible. It’s a common phenomena apparently. At one time I would have run around on that roof without a care. I’m rather more cautious now I’m closing in on 60. You might consider this a bit ‘wimpy’, if so, so be it........ but one thing is for sure, if I were going to do anything at 5.5 metres up it would be on a scissor lift with safety rails around me. I’ve had a fall off a ladder from only about 3 metres up & thought I’d broken my back. I was lucky. What is a couple of knocks easily ignored at 40 or younger is a whole different ball game 20 years later. Of course if you’ve worked at heights all your life the view might be a little different.

MB
4th September 2016, 10:35 PM
Slingshot/Shangy,
'Ball' lead sinker towing a 30lb trace monofilament and then lightly tow the rest up once made your bullseye over :-) !

threedogs
5th September 2016, 08:18 AM
Make two "A" frames with a solid weight bearing beam to slide between them.
They would store flat against the wall , total weight you'll need to lift is about 65kg
for the bullbar and 28kg for the winch complete. Total 93kg
I hear you about heights . Im not afraid of them myself but a few mates are
Make from RHS of your choice min 40x40x3mm

Winnie
5th September 2016, 08:24 AM
Surely it would just be a lot easier with 2 people to lift?
Once your back is better Cuppa it's an easy 2 person lift.

threedogs
5th September 2016, 08:45 AM
Surely it would just be a lot easier with 2 people to lift?
Once your back is better Cuppa it's an easy 2 person lift.

Now thats KISS at its best lol

MudRunnerTD
5th September 2016, 03:40 PM
Darren, I accept the roof is strong as you suggest & the beams will take the weight of a winch & bullbar ok, but I’m not getting up on the roof or working at 5.5m on a ladder. I have a shorter ladder which just gets me to the gutters to clean them. We used a scissor lift to put up the lights, hung to a level where my stepladder can reach This is way below where a sling would need to be attached.

You know, heights never used to bother me at all, but as I get older they & I are less compatible. It’s a common phenomena apparently. At one time I would have run around on that roof without a care. I’m rather more cautious now I’m closing in on 60. You might consider this a bit ‘wimpy’, if so, so be it........ but one thing is for sure, if I were going to do anything at 5.5 metres up it would be on a scissor lift with safety rails around me. I’ve had a fall off a ladder from only about 3 metres up & thought I’d broken my back. I was lucky. What is a couple of knocks easily ignored at 40 or younger is a whole different ball game 20 years later. Of course if you’ve worked at heights all your life the view might be a little different.

Don't get me wrong cuppa, i was not really having a go or suggesting your "wimpy" mate. Heights are not really my thing either.

I was certainly getting frustrated with the suggestions the the shed was less than up to the task and that the only way to get a sling in place was on a Scissor lift! That just does my head in mate! It would not even make my list! It would be cheaper to call your local Electrician and ask him to send his Apprentice around with a long ladder for a box of beer, or local handy man, gardener, neighbour. Anyone with a long ladder and a roof rack would be cheaper than a scissor lift.

If that magnificent shed was in my back yard i would have a sling slung around your 3rd C Channel rafter just about the 3rd Tophat (between your lights and above your office chair). That seems to be your central work zone and having somewhere directly above your head that you can put a shackle and a Block on to work on things would be perfect. It can be 3.0m off the ground there mate, as long as you can reach the spot from your ladder to use the shackle.

There are plenty of ways to skin that cat though mate, a long pole to slip the top over the top of that rafter, a fishing pole with a smaller rope trace, whatever, you only have to do it once. You have been on the land long enough to put your mind to that little problem mate. Thats what you seemed to be over thinking to me mate.

Winnie is right, a second pair of hands would be the simplest, i agree. But the real context here is your other thread. You are looking for someone to come to your place and pull this winch off, strip it, rebuild it and then refit it (a full day, not just a lift off or on) and we were trying to find a way for you to get on with the job without that reliance. The task itself is fairly easy and everything you need to know to get the job done is in the start of this thread. You just need to get the winch off. I'm just trying to help. I have had a shed that big and i had to overcome this same problem. I can tell you that sling got plenty of work over the years.

Good luck wth it mate.

Cuppa
5th September 2016, 08:25 PM
Darren, I recognise that a block & tackle would certainly come in useful from time to time, in fact I’ve already thought of another use. :)

It occurred to me that it would make putting the furniture I intend to store up on the /mezzanine floor up there far easier, & having looked have found a spot, mid-beam, which would work for this, and I can reach it standing on the Mezzanine floor without need for ladders. It is of course on the opposite side of the shed to the workshop area, but I would be able to manoeuvre the Patrol into position to do the winch.

Of course being mid-beam on a sloping beam, any sling I put over the beam will slide downward until a ’tophat’ prevents it sliding further. I realise that when lifting, the forces will be mainly vertical, but there will also be some force pulling the sling against the top hat (which is attached to the beam with two tek screws). I am not as certain as I’d like to be that the top hat would be strong enough in these circumstances. If you can confirm that, & I’m expecting you will, I’ve decided I’ll buy some gear.

As far as the gear goes, I was thinking a flat webbing type sling. However I found several other types in my search - rope, wire, round webbing. Reason I thought flat was that it would probably be best to spread the load as much as possible on the beam.

All of the smaller (500kg/1000kg) chain blocks I looked at new had chain lengths of 3 metres or less. I worked out that I need a minimum of 4 metres. On ebay there is a seller selling used chain blocks (end of project). These are branded units which I expect are going to be better quality than Chinese cheapies, but broadly speaking is a used chain block worth buying, or are they likely to be knackered or prone to failure. I’m thinking that for the limited use I’ll put it to there’s a reasonable chance they’d be just fine. The brands are Nobles, Boss, Beaver & Tuffy. $99 +14 postage except the Nobles which is $30 more. Any idea if the Nobles is worth paying a bit extra for or are they all much of a muchness?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Chain-Hoist-1-ton-x-6-meter-drop-Block-and-Tackle-Nobles-Rigmate-Shop-Crane-t-/252102101282?hash=item3ab274c922:g:OUIAAOSw0HVWA5o x

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Chain-Hoist-1-ton-x-6-meter-drop-Block-and-Tackle-Tuffy-Tuffy-/252458295721?hash=item3ac7afe1a9:g:ogsAAOSwknJXzGX i

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Chain-Hoist-1-ton-x-6-meter-drop-Block-and-Tackle-Boss-Boss-/252458117030?hash=item3ac7ad27a6:g:vakAAOSwknJXzGa T

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Chain-Hoist-1-ton-x-6-meter-drop-Block-and-Tackle-Beaver-Beaver-/252458114335?hash=item3ac7ad1d1f:g:fjMAAOSwdIFXzGD T

MudRunnerTD
5th September 2016, 09:27 PM
Cuppa, the one in that first link looks the goods. Looks to be in great nik too. I think buying a Noble would be like buying a second hand dawn vice.

I was looking at you mezzanine for height too and can see your step ladder there. If you can get the car over there then that's a winner mate.once it's off you can work on it at the bench, you just need support.

I would buy a continuous type loop sling and feed it through itself for a half hitch / lasso around that beam. It will tighten right up and really will place little stress on that top hat.

Although if your looking to load up on top of that mezzanine then your going to want your block right up near the beam. I was suggesting hanging it about level with your lights. You might get by with a chain double wrapped around that beam. Or an old 3m tree trunk protector wrapped twice around that beam the a shackle through both loops together would sit it maybe 800mm off the roof? A few more wraps would shorten it further.

Cuppa
5th September 2016, 09:49 PM
Good-o.
I had been thinking a 1 metre sling which would have seen the top of the chain block around 400mm below the beam, but I’ve got some chain I can use to get it closer to the beam. I’ll get the Nobles block.

This shows where I think I’ll attach it. Horizontally it’s about 400-500mm outboard from the edge of the floor. A little further would have been better, but I think it’ll be workable & it’s easy to access.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/31.jpg