Clogged key locks... How to clean?

[OzzieNorm]

Hi folks.
My 2006 ST spent the first 5.5 years of its life working on top of a coal mine. Dust everywhere!

Possibly never locked...

Now, the key won't fit into any of the door locks. Just won't penetrate.

Could be that the ignition lock has been changed; hence the new key is different to the door locks...

Could be that the locks are chocker with coal dust...

Is there any way to check that the key is original (i.e., compatible with the door locks)?

What methods might there be to clean out the door locks, i.e., to removed the accumulated dust?

TIA

[Bigrig]

Does the key shape fit that of the little seal on the lock? As in, can you push the little flap open with the key and then it goes no further?

If not, then the key is not for the locks - if so, then they could well be full of crud, but would find that odd for all five of them ...

[04OFF]

Does your glovebox have a key lock you can compare ?

Do you have a key number on a little tag, or written in the owners manual, a dealer can also look the key number up (with your VIN), all this may allow you to confirm, if the key you have, is the the actual one sold with the car from new.




It does sound strange for all external locks to be jammed, but ive seen cars from the mines many times before, and that dust is shocking so i would not rule out they are all caked up.



Get a can of WD40 or similar, but get a can that comes with a little straw, shove the straw into where the key fits and blast away, it may take many goes each time giving the spray time to soak in and break down the crud before the next blast.

You can also straighten a paper clip and use it as a agitator to help relase the crud, try not to force it too hard, and if you keep bending the paper clip you may risk snapping it off in the lock (metal fatigue)




You could also try removing the door locks themselves from the doors, sometimes they may have key codes on stamped them (not sure about your car), when removed you can also soak them to release the crud.

[Yendor]

I would try compressed air in the lock. It's not a good idea to use WD-40 in locks, as over time dust will stick to it.

You could also try electrical cleaner but you will need to lube the lock with graphite powder after it has dried.

If the ignition lock is different to the door locks, a lock smith can change the code in the lock so they are all the same.

A cheaper option (if you don't mind having 2 keys) is to remove one of the door locks and take it to the lock smith and get him to cut a key to suit.

You could also try contacting Nissan and see if they will tell you the original lock codes, the lock smith can then cut a key to that code.

[04OFF]

I would not use compressed air unless a last resort, air under pressure may force bits of crud so far and hard into the lock tumblers, you will never dislodge them !




WD40 is to "release" the crud, powdered graphite wont do a thing to release anything, although may be usefull afterward, and yes is prefered by many as a long term lock lube afterwards.

In general WD40 still works great for external door locks that are sticking, and if they have a working dust door, ive never had a long term issue, but when using powdered graphite, i hate cleaning it off the door, and always seems to blow over the window as well (you cant just wipe off ,have to use a chemical) plus its more expensive, harder to find, and a pain to get inside the lock mech without making a mess.

After inserting powdered graphite into the lock, you will find for ages afterward ,graphite may be transfered from the lock to the key, and so onto your hands, pockets, and clothes (not good for your wifes white shorts) and it wont just wipe off that easy.




Not sure what someone in the trade uses (probly better stuff than ive even seen Yendor) but most common Electrical cleaners ive used (and unless Norm is a auto sparkie is what he will find), will stain the absolute crap out of paint, and also can dissolve plastics, ofter cars will have plastic around door locks , plastic surround/spacer or sometimes a locking trigger switch etc made of plastic.

Even if the paint on the outside of the car resists staining, the "inside" of the door skin (with one coat of primer and one of colour and no clear) may be stripped from run off that sits inside the door.

[Yendor]

Steve,

Both of our posts were posted at the same time, my comment about the WD-40 was not aimed at you.

I still stand by my post.

I never said to use graphite powder as a cleaner.

You are also using way too much graphite powder.

Cheers Rodney

[werafa]

you can also use a butane gas cartridge with the wd40 nozzle tube as a cleaner that leaves no residue, or to clean out the wd40. I hope I don't need to mention about smoking while you do this.....

I would suspect that dust has jammed the tumbler mechanism, not that the key slot is full of crud. you may need to remove the lock mech and soak it in petrol

[04OFF]

Me, too much ............now when have i ever been known to be "excessive" with "anything" Rodney ? :hpfredgeorge1: bwwahaahaha !


(flame suit on)

[Yendor]

Me, too much ............now when have i ever been known to be "excessive" with "anything" Rodney ? :hpfredgeorge1: bwwahaahaha !


(flame suit on)

That's a good point, what was I thinking...:biggrin:

[the evil twin]

Hmmm... well, speaking as an old school Instrument Maker (God, that was a looong time ago now) I'd be suprised if all the lock assy's were so clogged that you couldnt get the key in at least part way on a couple of them... BUT... could happen certainly.

As a point of interest how many keys did you get with vehicle?

Sounds more likely it's a different ignition barrel. Grab yourself a strand of fine wire or fine plastic like a very small cable tie and see if you can get an end of that down the main body of the locks. If that gets in there with no resistance then I would really begin to suspect different locks. On the other hand if you feel a whole heap of crud then thats your problem.

Indeed, I would be pulling one of the locks out.

WD40 in situ isn't ideal unless you are confident you can flush out the majority of residue of goo. If you get the bodies out use a solvent based cleaner and dry it out with low pressure compressed air (air in a can is best) and then a teensy bit of graphite lube and the lock should be tickety boo for years.

[The Tank]

CRC contact cleaner is the go for this squirt it in and it takes out all the crap and then evaporates.Just remember to lubricate afterwards as there will be no oil at all left inside. Are you sure that the locks aren't deliberately blocked so that douchebags didn't lock the bloody thing by accident?

[OzzieNorm]

Have managed to clear the blockage from one of the lock/barrels - on the front passenger's door.

Key now slides all the way in.
It turns the lock just millimetres (counterclockwise).

Will follow up a post from Robo in another thread re removing the door trim and lubricating the rods & bits inside the door - and manually inducing all the bits to begin moving.

And I expect to have to do this for all 3x door locks and 5x doors (with central locking)...


Does the key shape fit that of the little seal on the lock? As in, can you push the little flap open with the key and then it goes no further?

If not, then the key is not for the locks - if so, then they could well be full of crud, but would find that odd for all five of them ...

[OzzieNorm]

Have a can of CRC - but have not tried. Will go with a can of compressed air initially.

I am not aware of the specific history of the vehicle - as I brought it from a dealer (who may have picked it up from the mine or at an auction). Dealer did not mention the specific issues - but was quite open about it having been used by a mining company. Was not till I picked up the keys that I noticed the tag was for a coal mine up the Hunter Valley.