Rust holes in gutters / roof - what to do without spending $$$?!

[harry-potzer]

Hey there,

I've already gone through several threads but I somehow couldn't help the feeling that I need some advice. Short before christmas our Patrol finally arrived (nervous breakdowns etc. described here http://bit.ly/vN9oiD) and now we're preparing for getting on the road. We are going to see a mechanic tomorrow (UltraTune Milton) if anything urgently needs to be done and of course because of THE RUST!!!!

I didn't remember it being so bad and neither did my girlfriend. We got a special christmas surprise from rust bubbles and holes all along the right sided roof-gutter and the roof just behind where the rack hits the gutter. Somehow it seems I didn't pay much attention to it in the first point.

Nonetheless this is now my problem and I have to deal with it. I don't want to make the car look like a new one but I want to avoid the roof rack (with tent) cracking through the gutter one night - so it doesn't have to be a cosmetically perfect repair. It's an on-the-road-car and will stay this way.
But how? And how do I get out of this without spending my last pennies (backpacker :p)???

My initial plan was to leave the roof rack but it seems like I have to get it down (definitely) - or can I maybe just lift one side of it and do the work? I would then start with an iron brush, sanding paper and screwdriver to get as much rust out of there as possible.
Then bog the holes and sand it to level. After that apply Killrust satin enamel.

Do I have to seal the bog first? Do I need rust converter?

[Mrowka]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but that rust will only get worse.

Even structural repairs will be difficult with rust that far gone, because there won't be much good metal left to weld to.

[Silver]

was it sold through a car yard? should have warranty, unless correctly covered by an exclusion - perhaps as commercial vehicle? Don't know the details.

If sold privately or through a yard, and registered, should have a safety certificate - may be some follow up there.

[harry-potzer]

Private seller via Gumtree. Rest of the car in "good" condition for 20 years of age. Is at a mechanic right now. He took a look and said if I don't want to spend too many dollars (means "have it done professionaly") I should bog it up and done. The car is WA-registered so no safety-cert but the mate's doing a check and tell me what to do.

Definitely there's not much metal left, but I'll try with rust-converter and bog to keep it running. I brought it to Ultratune in Milton...

I have to add that it's a travelling car where it doesn't matter if the new paint fit's the old...but anyway it would be nice to get the rust done.

[Silver]

bog will at least keep the rain out :-). Whether it is safe or legal I wouldn't say.

I'd be tempted to take the roof lining out, the roof rack off, wire brush what can be reached, treat the rust with ferrepro or your choice of rust converter, mate used to swear by a red water based latex paint after that, then I guess bog away, then prime and colour.

An alternative to rust converter etc might by a paint additive called Penetrol, which wicks in really well, and then sets hard.

I think the instructions for bog may call for it to be applied to bare bright steel - it has been a while.

There is a bog that has glassfibre in it, which helps in bridging holes.

You may find one of those cheesegrater body fill shapers makes things quicker - the trick is to start shaping as soon as the bog is hard enough, but not fully hardened. abrasive paper after that.

[harry-potzer]

I talked to the mechanic about it...it's probably easier (and better for the rust-proofness) to weld some metal of the rusty spots. I'm getting some scores on that later but it shouldn't be too expensive either when you compare it to the cost of bog 'n stuff.

[hutchy84]

Mate start of buy using rainex to treat the area of the damage try not to get this stuff on the rest of the paint work as it could stuff it up but in all honesty this will stop the rust in its tracks and leve it there for 12 hours or so. Once thats done rinse it of with fresh water it should make the steel look a grey colour remember that rainex is corrosive and you can just buy it from bunnings or your local harware store.

Can you post some pics of the damage as one of us on here might be able to give u a good idea

[hutchy84]

Eventually the bog will just fall out especially with a rack sitting on top.


I talked to the mechanic about it...it's probably easier (and better for the rust-proofness) to weld some metal of the rusty spots. I'm getting some scores on that later but it shouldn't be too expensive either when you compare it to the cost of bog 'n stuff.

[MudRunnerTD]

I would be really thinking about finding a wrecker with a full LWB shell sitting in his yard mate. Cut the full roof off at the pillars and have a body shop weld it to your shell. You get rid of the rust, get strong sills that will take you tent or camper and piece of mind that it is not going to sardine can peel off at 100km/h. Then out with the paint can and your ready to roll.

I reckon that would be no more expensive than stuffing around with that mess mate.

[werafa]

I have a hj60 toyota with roof rust 10x worse than yours. It is still going.

Consider whether your roof is strong enough to keep the roof rack - ditch it if you are not sure.
buy plenty of bog. You can use a rust converter, but will never get it all, and will have to redo this in a few years time anyway so this is your call. You can also squirt a bit of fish oil or penetrol around to slow the rusting.

Then get busy with the bog. I like to dent the area with the rust so I can build up a thicker layer of bog, and feather it out onto strong metal without having a bump on the outside. Then sand away and bog again if necessary. Go to your favorite shop and get a can of grey primer - I don't like getting rain or dew on bog in case it absorbs it (I heard about that once, but have never confirmed it).

Once you are happy, get a can or two of touch up paint (match the color to the car) and build up a few layers of paint over the new work. If you are not quite happy, you might wish to try some blade putty to fill in the last few blemishes.

This repair will hold for a few years, until the rust eats its way out under the bog and the bog begins to fall out. Then you get to do it again... :tease:http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/icons/icon6.png

you should be able to do this for less than 100 bucks.

good luck

[Robo]

Hi mate.
If ya find another one at the wreckers that has a good roof chances are the rest of the body should be good also.
You often see bare shells on ebay going pretty cheap.
This might be a good option, as you can rust proof etc any problems before ya swap out your bits in to it.
Maybe even respray before hand.
Alot of work but 1/2 the work done before you get it,( bare shell).
As for the rust you have now unless you can get rid of it completely it will come back , sorry.
Condensation in behind lining will find it's way to these joints again, you can try fish oil to block this, but it dries out, and you would probably have to retreat every 3 months or so.
The built up of heat and condensation attacking fish-oil, hence intensive maintance with fish oil..
Don't leave a rag that has f-oil on it and leave it in car or any where for that matter.
Many repair shops have burnt to the ground in the past, from oiled rags, can self combust.
Soak in bucket of water, or lay out flat to dry before you dispose of fishy rags.
Mate cars and our beloved 4x4 are always going to be work. the harder they are treated the more maintance they require.
Cheers